R31Nismoid

How is your Prime95 hotter than IBT? ITB will usually see 10 degrees more than Prime in every PC I've ever built from standard E5200 to overclocked everything! Someone gimme 1800... I need to regeek myself. All i've done is build home/stocker PC's for friends the past 6 months. Nothing fast or remotely interesting

mmm perhaps, i don't know either way. The two above are what all the other Getrag owners are using, so seems fit to go with whats working rather than whats perhaps... not

+1 Although surely the guy running the car up said that

read the dyno threads? basically nothing below 5000-5500rpm on a 2.6-2.8lt, making 450rwkw+ and that's obviously taking into account the head work needed to support etc. there is plenty of info in the pages here. realistically unless you have a big budget 3lt+ motor or just pure drag race car 2.6-2.8lt, then they are a bad choice.

I've 3 motors, all using brand new R33 GTR cranks & N1 pumps, as has just about everyone i know down here with a built 26. No issues. For your set-up, which is really not over the top at all, don't get too caught up in spending coin all over the place. If you want too, then fair enough, but its not required IMO.

Who knows whats wrong, or how it's been installed was kinda more my point. Anything could have been done really. Or even the EBC settings are backwards. Sounds like a "take it to a pro" time

Well GT-RS turbos - what do you expect? 800hp of turbo isn't going to be responsive on a 2.6ltr Sounds perfectly normal - and totally unrelated to the OP as he is talking about R34 N1 turbos. Well you've answered your own question. The EBC install is incorrect. If you've put the factory setup on there and it was instantly more responsive... Then it's rather obvious where the issue is...

Turbo/cluch - need a week or so. No time to check ATM. BUMP for manfolds. DON'T PAY $1000 for second hand items like other dreamers are trying to get - you can get them BRAND NEW for less right here, right now!

Look along the top bar * Skylines Australia * Forums * Members * Calendar * Gallery * Portal * Trader Ratings * Timeslips * Garage Still there GHOSTRun - donations have been inactive for over 2 years now.

Ah you bastard guy! Didnt ya talk to Troy like i told ya? lol he just had billet dog legs made up for his Stoptech's PM him, user: ROY Was somewhere out baysie way i think.

Saves me having to say it... damn weekends away!

simply because you don't need a split on a bell mouth style dump, it just takes up useful space. The only reasonably split dump on the market are Trust split dump/front pipe combo where the split is like 30cm long, not 5cm like HKS as an example.

-7 is def the 34N1 equivalent. Tad smaller than the -9 which well all know is identical to GTSS

That's cause you don't live in Vic ya penis. AFM has always been easy for the EPA, start car, pull plug. Car should run rough and die if rev'd. If it doesn't, instant fail But anyway, this is far off track now. Plenty of threads in the Vic area. And therest is just common sense (like using a factory fuel rail and airbox that offer no benefit by changing em in the first place).

yeah the cracked blocks i speak of, launched based, not harmonics.

Vic also has plenty of additional stuff to deal withover and above that... ive been on the receive over it all many times, only reason i know it all so well, wasn't by choice he he.

I take it you came here to learn... So when you ask for advice/input, don't dismiss it with 'i know better because that's what someone told me'. If that's your belief then there is little point in asking for pointers in the first place to be honest. A lot of guys here including myself have had many setups and been in many situations over the years etc. There is plenty of good knowledge here, best part is - its free. We want people to get value advice to help you. not line our pockets

Sorry but you are grossly wrong about legalities. I hope for your sake you don't get EPA'd. What i said above, is 100% correct whether you believe or it not (or the people telling you are legal, admit they are misleading you).

every dyno 'reads low' mate. its the new black. so pay no attention to such claims. but you part list, is a walking EPA mate. In Vic you need to be smart. No AFM is a 5 sec giveaway check for officers non factory airbox is another when combined with a FMIC. fuel rail, same deal. dogs balls obvious then once they see the above, they already know you have ECU etcetc. 300rwkw should be almost undetected if parts/mods are chosen carefully. I'll have 300rwkw next week... should i get defected, and given its super stealth i doubt it - it'll be in a passable state in less than 60mins Where you'll haven half a day of swapping parts if not more and you stand a very high chance of getting pinned, and lead to them taking photo evidence effectively screwing you. its just how Vic is these days sadly.

A daily driver that doesn't have aircon for the sake of fuel economy??? good son of rajab, I've heard it all now. anyway, this isn't FI performance related, moved.

everyone know what ya have, SIF its a secret anymore!

Ah didn't realise you weren't stock block

Sounds like a defect/EPA waiting to happen mate, really hope you don't get pulled over... You should make 300rwkw on PULP though either way. 260 is rather conservative and a normal GT3071 will do that.

he owns a WRX, that sounds like its been in a ding... My bets on he is serious +1 to badhairdave, solution made of win!

I've seen a few blocks crackalso, round the 300-350rwkw mark. however key point was they were stock motors/blocks. I've not seen however, a grout/prepd stock block crack upto 440rwkw. Now, you have others here as well like Matt, Aaron, Marko, Steve, Paul etc running 2.8-3lt... And 400-450rwkw. None have split a prep'd block either yet... Lots of guys running 10s and 9s in street driven cars that aren't totally filled etc. End of ghetto day you can never say it can't happen, but i think if IT IS gonna happen, it will happen REGARDLESS if you have this 1200 part or not as its potentially more to do with block casting/conditioning and the prep supporting a block that is less likely to crack in the first place.