R31Nismoid

Easier just to sell the turbo and guy a proper Garrett designed one, with proper -IW housings etc etc. 3071 is what this guy needs by the sounds of it. Winner turbo.

That sounds like an even worse option. I mean you cannot "reconfigure" a wheel. It's either you change it to another one or you don't. So it wouldn't be a GT35/700hp comp wheel any more for a start, and if it still is - its TOO BIG for those housings as already stated. Buy a turbo correctly, once. Be happy forever

lol @ bending them back - come on man... You need to go buy new ones and then ensure they are all fitted correctly it. If you are not doing the work yourself, its gonna get expensive. Also as the pistsons have hit the valves, is there any score/marking on them?

fk me PlanB - do i need to send you on another holiday? GROW UP

Please read the forum rules - and try again.

Grill Room 1 Queens Rd, Albert Park The end I'm there 10 times a year, maybe more. Never had a bad steak yet in 6-7 years and most places i regular have horrifically fked up at least 1-2 meals in that time. It's no $15 steak & a pot place though...

http://www.google.com.au/#sclient=psy&hl=en&q=grout+filling+RB26+block&aq=&aqi=&aql=&oq=&pbx=1&fp=961c740466eb217a

You cannot use the redline in the Getrag IIRC... You must use one of the two: Castrol - Tranzmax Z Royal Purple - Synchromax

I would very much disagree with that comment. You'd be surprised how many builders around Aus are putting quite a substancial amount of filler into the blocks once you start asking them about it. Depending on the builder it seems to be anywhere from 30-40% without any cooling issues what so ever. These are for street/circuit motors. No doubt there are other mods going on at the same time given N1 blocks still have the oiling issues and so on which doesnt neccesarily make them a "winning" option for this guys specific question/application. Dedicated 'trailer' drag motors seem to get a bit more grout again for obvious reasons. Not saying the part doesn't serve a purpose or anything like that but it would seem a $1200 part just for block rigidty device is expensive when you take into account it's @ the bottom of the motor where grout will actually fill the problem area(s). Also not forgetting the stock RB26 sump also add's quite a bit of strength to it all as it is (when you compare to say, RB25 sumps). Problems also arise with aftermarket sumps that don't incorporate the stock sump level of strength/support as some aftermarkets sumps out there would appear not to have simply because of thier design, thicknesses and so on. Kinda a side issue but relevant none the less. End of the day - ask yourself this: When was the last time you heard someone making 400-450rwkw needing extra support on a normal RB26 block?

Injectors are far too small for -5s on PULP as it is... On E85 - forget it, not a hope in hell you'll get enough out of them. Also 1bar on -5s is kinda pointless. You need 20-24psi to really get things into the happy zone.

N1 'crate' style motors still have ALL the inherrant issues that a normal RB26 bottom end has. Oiling issues, block cracking/required strengthening etc etc. So overall they are just overpriced stock motors as you need to strip them down and attend to all these issues. For the price of N1 bottom end you could build a BETTER bottom end without question using a normal 26 block and blow for blow - the motor you had build should be much stronger/resiliant. Just because someone used a "N1 block" means very little about the internals or supposed "strength". The only time N1 bottom ends have a use - is scrutenised types of class racing etc etc where it's a requirement.

Ye but even if you do pick a gear, if it's shift kitted - I've seem cars get some nasty compression lockup. Where in a manual, in the hills etc. You can just rev-match your downshift. AUTO certainly has its place in the 1/4 derby and you can almost continually do identical times over and over off a transbrake etc. Where a manual requires everything to be set from RPM to clutch to driver. If you want 1/4mile and just that - auto with a nice stall/transbrake is win. For everything else, it's manual. Think about it though. A built/manualised auto and so on to run 10's with = 2.5-3k Manual RB25 box - 1200 Factory autos do not cut it at all. Have thier place either way.

Because they already have the housing. Offering an option is merely adding to product coverage. The .63 has its place. But not on a RB25 with a 700hp turbo mate. By the sound of it you'd be better off with a GT3071 which even in a .82 - would come on sooner than a GT35 with a .63 and be MUCH more linear and progressive (read: less epic wheel spin as boost hits)

I've been going there for a few years lol. Im in as a single. Dont think any "tag along" doll will be appreciated in such a venue...

I've been trying to get parties to the table here. Everyone else - just leave it be. It has been taken to PM for quite some time now and I've been trying to reach a resolution. It certainly seems like one has been reached, or at least offered up by Sarge - it's upto other people now to actually TALK TO EACH OTHER. Whilst i am the "mediator/middle man", pick up ya fken phones and talk to each other

Get a smaller turbo then. Putting a .63 on a GT35 will cause undue restriction, and it won't improve things "much" better.

nothing has changed in that regard. Try using your home net without a proxy/gateway, i bet it works fine then

Plenty of threads in the FI section mate, please go have a search. Having said that, a .63 is FAR too small and a very bad choice for a 700hp/GT35

Nor that one mate. I'd say it's your end on both accounts to be honest if you say one is a school etc. OR they could be using a certain type of blocked proxy, this has been known to happen and we cannot fix it from this end.

Not in the ban list It's either being blocked @ our ISP level as you are using a black-listed proxy or something... Or some other issue at your end as it's certainly not at the forum level

What turbo? Honestly, stock cams are the best for your setup if you want response and mid-low end etc. you'll get far more gain spending the cams money on beefing up the auto/shift speeds and so on.

if the next post from either of them isn't accepting challenge @ calder, i think bans are in order i ain't banned anyone for 3 days, getting itchy fingers...

oil drain and bigger sump are the least of you worries, the 15-20yo 32 motor is... IMO don't chase more than 280rwkw. sump, just get the diff removed and welded up hole, works fine. airbox should be fine BOV setup might need custom work to fit

l0WRB - I've been watching this unfold as a I do with all complaints. I've been instructing Russman on how to seek a resolution, which you seem unwilling to work towards. You sold a turbo that you claimed was "pretty much" brand new. It wasn't, and was clearly damaged. You have one chance to fix this issue.

too many variables, you don't even know the other car was/wasnt stock. go use google