R31Nismoid

what kinda advice is that? because he runs off the actuator, and doesn't get 25psi... he needs to back cut wheels or change housing? lol. -5s will hold 25psi if they are set there. running off supplied items, garrett or hks will only ever see 15-16psi, and hence he needs to mod the actuator, get a ebc, or bleed more air off. quite simple really.

but more so focused st that event. glad i dont live in the area anymore

Racepace

The actuator is around 1bar give/take. HKS one isn't magically better. It's probably the same as the Garrett one anyway. If you are running just off the base actuator pressure, then you'll never make more than that... You need to increase it by whatever method you choose. If you do have say, a boost controller, and you can't get more than 16psi, then that's the boost controller, not actuator problem. its probably installed/config incorrectly

Yes something is busted boys. PM notifications are broken, and they were 100% working 2 days ago. I've emailed C as i don't have access to that bit. Sit tight

When i do it. Moving house and i have no actual PC net, trying to do such things is impossible from my mobile. Probably Mon or Tues

Your words, not mine my friend

Simple choice really innit?

We are running the event through ALL the clubs as a collective. This is a group initiative and it came about from SA wanting to do a track day with us Same as when it goes to NSW or SA etc. Everyone pitches in. Refer to your PM mate.

Yep given it is repeatable it sounds like it's simply flowing too much air @ that point and hitting the "left" side of a comp map which is the surge area. No real instant way around such a problem unless as stated, you back it off a bit which is not really adventageous to the situation and might just move the surge point up 200-400rpm anyway. Is it build to the 18psi @ 3200rpm in 5th? I'd say it probably would be given it's full load, but gotta ask Overall though this is quite odd for that turbo size to do such a thing, never heard of a 3071/76 doing that. GT3040s (600hp) did/mine as an example, but that was around 200-2400 rpm just as boost started to build under full load and only very very slight and didnt have a major effect to the overall result so i was lucky in that respect. But then i had an exhaust manifold and factory intake, so slight differences there.

Sounds like you are doing the most epic back pedal of all time

3.5 isn't enough for a 04x, needs 4' due to 400rwkw+ a core is cheap, but you could sell the 04r, and it'll workout the same

You'd take a fair guess the rail would be stuffed - if so, forget it. It'll cost more than the purchase price. I thought you would have learnt after you were scammed 2 months ago. STOP looking for the "cheap deal". Spend 8-10k, buy a proper car from someone you can see, and one that hasn't been destroyed.

No editing after i believe 2hrs. So more than enough time to fix any issues. Otherwise, refer to the long thread about it all of 5 threads down called "cant edit posts" http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/341192-cant-edit-posts/ Thanks

Car sales or Our For Sale area (if you are after imports/skylines etc) Unique cars sometimes has things, but depends on what you want

T04Z is too big for your current part list, a GT35 is only JUST going to squeeze in. If you want 400-440rwkw+ (T04Z), then you need bigger injectors, 4" exhaust etc. Basically another 3-4k is required. And then budget for a gearbox with that kinda power, as realistically they don't hold that power forever - so 5-7k. I still think the GT35 is the best choice mate, and it's more-so affordable in terms of not stressing "too" much more than needs to be. 360-380rwkw through a stock box should be OK. But going much more and you really are starting to strech the relationship a bit.

R&R can kick in @ 9psi, it can not kick in till 14psi That are FAR too many variables. Load, temp, airflow... Even accuracy of the boost gauge - all are factors mate. There is not "magical" sweet spot. IF you go back to 8psi and the problem is fixed - its quite simply ECU time.

Using oversized pistons is not stroking a motor. But bit of a thread dig there Abe http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/349279-rb25-build/ He posted that not 2 days later, NFI why, but at least it had a bit more info

Stock coil packs are good for over 400rwkw without a problem if they are in working order. Same as splitfires, just more expensive. It's the ignition amp that lets them down, not the coil itself. (aka: HKS DLI)

I was with LSV for my GTS-R, only reason was Shannons wouldn't touch it given my garage situation at the time. For the sake of $100, i would stick with Shannons personally, they are well proven, don't fk you around etc. You'll never hear a Body Shop/Mechanic complain about Shannons & Insurance claims.

Epic thunder in the CBD right about now

Mate i could give you a LONG list of cars running in hill climbs/rally events (targa and the like) that ALL run the factory gearboxes. All of them are totally and utterly fine. The odd car might break a box here/there, but in the grand scheme of things when a box costs around 800 - it'll take you 10 years before you've come close to spending Holinger money. If you are only making 450rwhp, a PAR gearbox is a waste of money for a start. OS gearset is massively stronger again. I can't even say I've heard of someone breaking one and there are plenty of people running 400-600rwkw through them.

Car is locked in for a service so make that 37 I'll get my form done later this w/e

Couldn't agree more.

Any turbo can blow if there has been poor oil pressure or water flow @ some point etc. I'd wouldnt be surprised if the core has blue burn marks