R31Nismoid

I'm busting my balls to get the car serviced - If i do, entry will be in over the w/e

Post prices as per forum rules or this will be locked

You've gotta be fking kidding me. After i tell you explicitly not to start another thread, you do so anyway? Banned. Make another account, I'll ban that too.

Aiming for 400rwhp with a GT35 on 20psi? More like 500rwhp, and likely a busted motor. There are plenty of GTS-t's deep into the 10s drive there/drive home. No doubt there have been some that have done 9's, its not a particularly hard combo to get right motor/power wise, just the driving and traction set up is.

Not the best choice of rear housing IMO, doesnt really justfiy/support the expense of aftermarket manifolds/intakes etc as the turbo is going to be choked to the heavens As for gate sizing, read the FI Guide http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/66556-forced-induction-quick-ref-guide/ Has just the thread on it. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/43638-external-wastegate-sizes/

Given the forecast, you might find as of tomorrow/wed it gets cancelled, thunderstorms scheduled usually means cancellation by Wed

Mmm yes and no, most would be running near factory drivelines. Some rebuilt transfer cases/rebuild factory diffs perhaps, but nothing special that is over/above the norm.

I need to give mine a service first, so I'll be going to the next one most likely.

Plenty of people do for rally/circuit type of stuff. Drags also, so there is a fair amount that would, its a fun feeling when it shoots outta the hole Problem is, takes a while to get right lol

You still need to confirm that is the issue though dude - as Jonno said earlier

Don't be fooled mate, you can strip a gearbox or smash a diff, nobody can tell you when/where it'll happen

Well it wont be under warranty if there is nothing wrong with it... Which there technically isn't by the sound of it

Indeed this is why I asked about the turbo itself, I'd be very suspect about it. Have the gate held shut and test it, but the likely scenario is as above.

Who cares. Issue is sorted out, and those businesses peddaling goods have been warned to stop doing so. The end.

gearbox anywhere upto 1000, diff's usually 200 - but its the labour that kills you on that one

Ideal RPM I've around is around 5,5-6,500, that's with 350rwkw and semi's also. Totally depends on the surface, tyre temp etc 8,000rpm is too much, you'll just sit there tyre turning for no real gain with undue stress for that brief second where power is transferred before wheelspin breaks out. Ensure your wheels are straight too, if they are turned slightly it can lead to you smashing the front stock diff's while the car scrambles to work itself right.

You remove it like everyone else? Use the search function. 100's of threads about removing HICAS.

Thanks Captain Found it on GCG, seems like another new name/combo, Garrett really are getting over the top! What housings did you get with it?

What is a 2876?

Don't believe much of what came outta that guys mouth, I lived with him for 3 years. Total scam artist in the end and ripped of many of my friends, me included. Although that said, some motors did go there.

Yes but they also make mince meat of their diff's, massive issues in that area. They are NOT cheap to tune/chip due to the ECU used, nor is a proper fix for the diff if you do start modifying it. Not really a "tuners" car IMO. Anything that uses the Bosch ECU's isn't simply due to the excessive costs. Dropped hard in price though, friend of mine lost 45-50k on his in 18months, brought it new lol

Turbo and NA are different across all models.

First half of that was average, 2nd half - you can clearly see that guy has screws loose Lucky Russians don't chop/change lanes for no reason like the spastics do over here lol.

cops arse you go MIA for 6 months @ a time.

Or more so I'm the only cvnt (apart from Nick) that actually helps people around here you useless bastard