Duncan

If you don't have time to watch a regular lap, put aside 0:54 to watch the new outright record....

Not necessarily shift speed because that is most mechanical/hydraulic not electronic. It should allow modification of shift up and down points and therefore stop the auto shifting when not wanted. On the dyno the other day it consistently changed by 6200 at full throttle 4th gear and the power curve was still rising I spent a bit of time with the paddles on a long drive yesterday and found the opposite to you; mine shifts faster up full throttle in auto while the delay for the paddles requires some learning to plan ahead. It also has an annoying habit of changing back to auto from manual mode at partial throttle (it does hold manual shift with no throttle like long downhills thankfully). So, I'd say they are useful for being in the right gear when you leave a corner, but not much else. Sorry for the off topic....for me the big difference between an infiniti and JDM import is you get a much newer car with the JDM option for the same price or cheaper than local cars

Apparently announced on Instagram just this week; I can't access it and nothing on their website Their GTR TCM information is here: https://ecutek.zendesk.com/hc/en-gb/articles/360001830657-Tuning-Your-TCM

So these motors don't seem to have as big issues with DI port carbon as others do. I also had a good run with my VK45DD cima, it did develop a light missfire at idle at around 300,000klm so I started using the subaru upper engine cleaner with each oil change and it improved (still happened occasionally) So, my plan with this car is to add a catch can, do upper engine cleaner with every second service (ie every 10,000klm) and see how that goes, I'll pull the intake off sooner or later and have a look at the valves too. On the ECU, you need an Ecutek tune; the Redsport ECU will expect sensors (turbo speed) and the 2nd water pump that the base model doesn't have...but I'd expect a tune (mostly more boost) is all you need to get there.

I reckon you are 100% right on the money. The only reason I bought Red Sport instead of the base VR30 is that I am investigating racing it in Production Cars, and they require you to run a (mostly) standard car....therefore knowing exactly what was in the RS spec was important to me and I paid the extra. Other than that, for sure I would have pocketed the $10k and spent them on mods instead. Plus the non-RS models are more likely to have had a nicer life prior. Just a warning though, mods always cost twice as much as they look like they will on paper BTW you should also consider the 400R imports, they are about the same price as a local RS but 5+ years newer. Of course that comes with the usual warnings about finding parts, unhelpful nissan dealers and finding insurance

Yeah they sure are available for import now, its great news Matt, You need an import specialist insurer, nothing has really changed over the years about the mainstream insurance companies not touching them. I have my cars with Lumley (same group as NRMA etc) because they insure imports and have a good concept of "stable use" where as long as no more than 2 cars are being driven each day you can have them all on a good rate, I've also had no issues with claims through them. Note they won't insure a car if you take it to the track, even for an off track claim. Shannons are another option but I had a lot of trouble with their claims (they were happy to take the premiums, not so keen to pay out), and I'm sure there are other import specialists too

Tow hooks fit neatly in the factory holders front and rear, easier than bodging something up myself. Hopefully I'll never have to test if they can hold the whole car's weight like Mark did on his 32 back in the day...

So, with the USD on the way down with Donald's pending election, I went on a bit of a buying spree at Z1, there is a fair bit of aftermarket stuff for the v37 platform and it looks reasonably well engineered and made. First, a weight adding change - new undertray for the front, but usefully it comes with a port to get at the drain plug and oil filter without having to remove the whole damn thing like the dumb factory setup. Also.... 2 reg compliant tow straps Red radiator hoses (preformed silicone) Red vacuum hoses Catch can kit (might need some massaging to fit RHD) Diff brace to add more that one mount point to the rear I'm not planning to put the silicone lines on right now, but they should help with quicker work on the car instead of just being a mass of black stuff under the bonnet

hahah yeah I have only done it with either the engine out or the subframe on the floor. Assuming you are replacing it, just cut it near where it changes direction. If you are getting one remade from yours, draw a line across where you are going to cut it, so you end up with a marking you can line up again after when it is remade.

Got a pic of the fitting you are having trouble with? Everything unbolts so it is likely just being difficult. Plenty of penetrating oil followed by a little carefully directed heat will usually do the trick

Good to hear from you

Was it worth timing a visit around the event? I've been meaning to go for years

Is it running the standard ECU? some sort of data log might help understand where timing, AFRs etc are at. If it is standard ECU something like Nissan Datascan would help

I'd always suggest a tailshaft loop with a 1 piece tailshaft, just something simple from the original centre bearing mounts going underneath it

Any plans to seal it from the cabin? It will throw plenty of oil/grime over the years. On my auto to manual Stagea there is a custom ally sheet to cover most of the hole then the standard rubber seal is attached to that to join to the shifter

I don't think you can order the bearings individually aftermarket, to my knowledge they come in sets (noting a machine shop might be able to mix a set for you). But more importantly, while a "slapper rb30" has been a thing over the years if you want a cheap engine, it really is not the right way to go if you want a half decent result. In the end, if the engine is apart you really should do it properly with decent CR pistons, careful measuring, replace head and main bolts with studs, head service and probably cams, bigger oil pump and improved oil returns, baffles in the sump etc etc on the basis that you are probably going to want it to be a decent performance engine way day. Yes it all adds up so you need to be sure you are ready to go that way, the alternative is a disappointing result that you end up having to pull back out and do properly one day anyway

I've never used it, but yes R32/R33 GTST and R32/33/34 GTR have similar ECU pinouts so it should be possible. Their doco states a few things including AFM deleted and replaced by MAP that you need to add, no knock sensors (actually lots missing on their "street" ECU), narrow O2 replaced with their wide o2 etc Also worth noting that both Link and Haltech recommend replacing the factory intake air temp sensor with a better one as air temp is critical to accurate air calculations with a MAP. I think both r32/r33 GTST need the intake air temp sensor added. MaxxECU just say it is "optional" to have the sensor at all which I think is dangerous.

Well, if necessary you can mix and match bearing grades, that's what Nissan did from the factory (on rb26 at least) However, the overall problem is no matter what you measure it as, unless you are totally happy with the result and put it together it will be going to a machine shop who will redo all the measuring anyway. I'd suggest putting aside money for bottom end machining, and let the machinist decide the main and big end bearings. Also, you need suitable pistons for the hybrid engine and going oversize on the bore is the best way to ensure good clearances on an old or unknown engine. Head is even worse, its worth getting that done while it is apart too. Certainly stem seals and cleaning and bleeding the lifters while it is apart is a good idea with an old head too, but also checking valve seat and cam tunnels

This has to be getting frustrating.... Is it all original wiring loom? Sounds like some more money needs to be spent on a new ECU/engine/sensors loom

Reputable and Body Kits don't normally go together, the industry is full of poorly fitting "kits" Noting your profile doesn't mention where you are in the world, Impul make the best kits I can think of.

If you have an active leak it would be badly contaminated again by now....I'm pretty sure it is just residual. BTW I suggested checking under the oil cap, not radiator cap. Finally, cooling system pressure testers are cheap to buy, that will tell you with a reasonable degree of confidence if there is a leak anywhere in that system.

500hp/375kw is very achievable/ not extreme. Depending whether you want a traditional or modified look you would go larger twins (but they would be laggy) or a single/twin scroll turbo. Potentially with some extra capacity like rb30. For daily driving the considerations would be keeping the air con, using an electronic throttle for driveability and not going too hard on the shocks/springs. Around that power level the gearbox can start being a problem but that kind of depends how nice you are to it; some people kill them and have to go to something less friendly, others don't have issues.

Never really looked into them, because for me racing regs require certain nominal kg weight traditional extinguishers.

Also, it's highly unlikely to be the cause, especially if there is no milkshake under your oil cap. Goop in the cooling system is almost always rust from the block due to someone along the way not running enough coolant/rust inhibitor. If it worries you, you can try and flush everything out for a few times.

Hard plastic can be recycled, foil can't right? Can't see how this is a step foward.