Duncan

hmm maybe I was premature.....saw this article which says changes are to be announced today to allow: No restriction on imports: From Japan or UK Less than 500klm Less than 12 months old http://www.theguardian.com/business/2016/feb/10/australians-to-bypass-car-dealers-and-import-directly-from-japan-and-uk So...bring on cheap GTRs E52 Elgrands Y51 Cimas and of course the beautiful e-200NV And probably some toyota stuff that no-one cares about. And hopefully some small crazy models that I've never heard of Very big win for consumers and small importers, and big lose for Nissan OZ and co.

Oh on topic, Neil dug this up from his tool guy and we went halves. and best of all I have possession of it. nice not to slice up the hands or bash it open and closed with a big screwdriver any more

so there's been stuff all progress, I did tidy up the fuel pump cradle and move to e85 safe hose. I ended up deciding to keep the small lift pump (and the 044 external) although neither are e85 OK, I am going to run the oil additive and carry spare pumps instead. I also did some measuring of fuel pump impact on temps but will post that up in the lift pump thread when I get a second also did another test day in the emo, they are annoyingly quick little bastards. did a 1.06.2 at wakie on old tyres which is 0.7 faster than I've ever done in the GTR....still not heading permanently to the dark side though, it's nowhere near as much fun.....plus, I picked up some ideas from the data logging that I might try in the gtr anyway.....

lol that is bullshit. 32 hours. I want to check my bundy card. pete, I've never seen you run once let alone 4 times in a day.

oh, that doesn't read well.....

kudos for effort, but you didn't own a broom handle and some grease?

thanks gents that is exactly the part I was trying to get to. funnily enough it struck me that the workshop manual might have some information, and voila! so yes, the GTR cap has a one way pressure sensitive valve that allows air in to replace the used fuel (but not out, of course) the other half of the breathing is the "fuel overflow prevention system with check valve" which breathes excess pressure into the charcoal canister when the engine runs. the motorsport question of course is what is needed to safely vent the tank, I don't want to sit on a fuel bomb. Pretty much every aftermarket vent is an anti roll over valve which is open at all other times, ie it allows air/fuel vapour in or out unless the car is exactly upside down. ideally I would keep the stock cap and have a 1 way valve to allow fuel vapour to vent to atmo (via a small filter) but I am having trouble finding something good. most setups are small valves near the top of the tank that are almost guaranteed to leak fuel from a full tank in high G corners. In fact the most common valve mounts on top of the tank and doesnt allow for any venting hose at all Some people combat that by having looped breather hose but as soon as you get liquid fuel into that hose it can no longer work as a vent which defeats the whole purpose. kind of like a S bend with the same result that gas cannot pass. happy to hear any suggestions about a good way to deal with the venting

haha timely question....also interesting to know

pretty much any workshop will have a press that can do it, you dont need a specialist tool.

link to proof? the rules have always been that low volume import is not possible when the manufacturer imports them. they can only come in: Full homologation. Only nissan oz ever had this and only for 91/92 models. 1989 rule - was 15 year old until it was changed to stop all the post 1989 jap goodies coming in. Will become a 30 year old rule in 2019. Personal import - if you can prove you owned it for 2 years (used to be 1) overseas SEVS/RAWS etc if the manufacturer didn't import it at that time. So 89, 90, 93, 94 models are OK. 4 cars came in before 91 through scuderia veloce, the rest came in post 93. Race/Rally - can't be registered except restricted/rally rego Parts - has to be cut in half at a minimum.

You need to find out more about how the car was imported; because nissan Oz was selling GTRs in 91/92 you can't import them yourself. About the only valid way for that car to be registered is if it was a Personal Import. Check the VIN with DOTARS to find out how it was complied. I imported a 91 but it is only for race/rally use and can't be fully registered

+1 we used to have to run them as a control tyre and they were horrible. Good on the first use, but thy quickly became junk even though they might have plenty of tread left also, they about the most expensive tyre you can buy.

There must be some older, wiser heads here..... what does the fuel cap do? to save some posts, the correct answer is not "it seals the fuel tank"

oh man that makes the wedding all the rude-r. can't they just move it? Bathurst hillclimb only comes once a year

yeah mate I saw you were heading there too in the racing thread, should be an excellent event. buying would probably not have been much more expensive but lets face it, there is nothing faster than a borrowed car Tim see you at Kempsey...but it's round 3 because Bathurst is 2 events/ 2 rounds over the 2 days. Dale I did ask what they weight but the exact answer went straight out the other ear; I just remember I was surprised how light it was compared to the GTR

I think we need pics....but it seems likely the leak is at that fitting

more seriously though....almost certainly not. you need to get the VIN and then check with DOTARS what sort of import approval it had, if any. I assume you also need to check some sort of written off vehicle register

ummm yeah. this thread was about the car's progress not me but I guess they are related. Basically I've decided to tick an item off my bucket list and enter the Bathurst 6 hour race at Easter. The GTR wasn't eligible (due to age) and even if it was I wasn't confident how it would go flat out for 6 hours so I figured I would use someone else's car instead. So, I did a test day in this dirty emo 9 on Monday, it went OK although it was surprisingly different in feel to the GTR and I'll need more seat time to be comfortable. Even though they can run 1.2bar boost (vs 0.8 in the GTR) they make a little less power; they are of course about 200kg lighter though. The other part of this decision for me was that it takes a lot of my race budget for the year, so I am not rushing to get the GTR ready for any particular event. Instead both Kel and I have entered the 8 round state hillclimb champs, the first round is at Bathurst in the first week of March.

there are conflicting instructions because they both achieve the same thing; but like Adrian said, if the CAS is unplugged the ECU won't know the engine is turning, so it will not give either spark OR fuel

I think Bob's on the right track. There are 2 fitting type, one has a flare on the end of the brake line with an angled end that seals on a similar angled end in the caliper (the "olive" Bob mentions). The other type uses a banjo bolt that seals with a copper washer between the head of the bolt and a (hopefully) flat part on the caliper where the bolt screws in. If your brake line has the copper washer/banjo setup it needs to seal tightly to the caliper, and it won't be able to do that if the banjo bolt bottoms out on the original fitting before it is tight. So to check that you can look at the copper washer; they are designed to crush a little when they are tight.

lol adam got in first

the thing is, nothing that leaks changes when the car is moving....it should be able to make the leak occur when stationary no matter what

sorted, it's been moved to the builds section, good luck with it!

just shoot me a link and I'll move it. No need to shout though

Excellent outcome...can you post up a pic or more detail for future people with the same issue