Duncan

Its hard to tell from Natsoft, but they way I read it you guys made it through 8 hours, coming 10th, and have the 2nd fast lap? If so damn good work!

more helpfully though, are you using the rb26 resistor pack (or maybe rb20 has one too?) You might just have simple bad wiring there

Wow, this is an odd problem!

well I've got a consult 3 in Sydney, happy to plug it in for only $155.99/hr. Or for nothing. BTW most generic scan tools at your average workshop should still work I think, the local place was certainly able to read my non-OBD2 Cima the other day

hahaha this is the opposite of the doing skids on the way to the bottle shop thread. Nissan thought having additional support over the 4 block to gearbox bolts was a good idea, I'd take their lead. Depending on what you mean about the "rear sump" I'd be looking to add some sort of custom bracket to at least 2 bolts.

Good on you Nick, you've been quietly looking after the Merch for so damn long now....thanks for all your commitment and work.

for track only, right? it's probably not legal for street use as its outside those secret specs that only tyre fitters have but are still apparently legal requirements... I suspect you wouldn't notice any additional sidewall movement on the track unless you ran them back to back with 245s....just go for it

So as I'm doing a bunch of work on the car, I thought I'd make sure it was e85 ready if I want to go that way in the future. I currently have a teeny low pressure/high flow pump in the standard holder in the tank (nice and low) and a good old bosch 044 under a surge tank that sits under the rear sear outside the car. It's a great setup but AFAIK neither pump will survive if I run e85 through it. What are people using for e85 safe lift pumps, and are there any external pumps similar in size to an 044 (so I don't have to stuff around with the setup too much)? I bought the big e85 walbro but it doesn't suit external use and is crazy big to use as the lift pump (who wants to warm and circulate that much fuel..... Car only makes 310kw at high boost on e85 so it doesn't need 400kw+ pumps.

Are you looking for high beam only? I recently went LED high beams in the Leaf, not sure what globe type the stag takes but you may be able to use the same or similar http://www.banggood.com/H8-H9-H11-20W-Cree-XML-2-LED-SMD-Car-Fog-Headlight-Light-Bulb-Xenon-White-p-976889.html

hmm I was just thinking about this thread the other day. cracked block would be a bad outcome, but it doesn't really reflect on any shop involved in the build, its more just bad luck. You were pushing a mile of power through a standard wall block and it's not unheard of.

very unlikely the ECU is worth fixing if swapping it showed it was the problem. I guess a standard ECU is worth about 100.

haha Tsukada-san is awesome. He comes out here every year to help with Steve and Kel's car at Targa Tasmania. Super knowledgeable and committed but still enjoys these old dinosaurs Great trick to find your car on an old DVD, you should buy a lotto ticket....

do the boxes generally have their model cast into the casing? If so, where? unfortunately FAST does not give tranny code for a VIN

This thread makes me think about doing skids to the bottle shop

good old internet

I'd drive it, but maybe avoid skids. Clearly there are currently sufficient bolts because the gearbox hasn't fallen off. 5 minutes on a hoist at a workshop with a bolt collection will have it checked and resolved.

Hankook Z221 tyres are gone. The following are still for sale: 6 Volk Racing Le37 in 18x9.5 +12 Dunlop Sport Maxx TT tyres 225/55R17 Wideband 02 sensor controller Battery Box 32 Heater core and box 32 Radiator top mounts RB26 Engine Covers set 1 JJR RB26 sump baffles R34 GTT/C34 Stagea Series 2 Oxygen Sensor Ruzic Datalogger and Engine Monitor II

not much...somewhere between 240 and 250kw. But I've never been the slower car off the line, even against cars with much more power

yeah sorry I've got no idea on 1000m either, although there are others on here who do that. In both 400 and 1000 I would guess that the shortest gearing that doesn't require an extra gear change is the quickest, which is how I read what XKALABA was saying and yes I run 4.375 in the race car, its one of the few mods allowed. a bit like 400m there is a trade off between acceleration from shorter gears vs extra gear changes in corners.....I generally prefer a higher gear and midrange out of corners than screaming out sideways in a lower gear so shorter gears suit me. But that is only general, each track and lap time would be different

well 400m should be easy enough to decide, but for circuit use it will depend which tracks you go to, and how you find those ratios at the moment. Personally I prefer the shorter gears because in NSW we don't have tracks like Sandown or Phillip Island where you are in danger of hitting the rev limit in 5th

Anyway, there has been some progress since the last update, including today when I lured Neil over with the promise of a 1000klm race on TV, then made him work half the day. Picked up some finished bits: Front sump all finished; Coated in Thermal Dispersant coating and with the Quaife diff installed Rear diff reco-ed with new bearings/seals etc, it was otherwise OK. Interestingly Award told me I had been running synthetic diff oil which was clear due to glazing of the gears -they told me to use a mineral gear oil (Castrol Axle Limited Slip 85w140) instead so I'll give that a go Front subframe blasted and coated by Craved Wiper arms blasted and coated too. After 25 years they had lost a lot of paint resulting in nasty reflections off the stainless Front and Rear Calipers rebuilt by Specialised Brake and Clutch in Penrith, then coated in Thermal Dispersant Coating by Craved. No they don't look exciting but I'd rather they cool well New Clutch master and slave from Just Jap; the old master has been leaking unfortunately Blasted and Painted the Brake Master....looks crap in the pic but it actually came up well. It has also had a master cylinder leak in the past Pressed the bearings out of the front uprights and gave them a bit of a clean as well Since pretty much everything is out, and because I am looking to make the fuel system e85 ready in the future, I decided to drop the fuel tank and clean it out Rear end looks empty without a fuel tank and rear subframe I expected loads of crud inside the tank after 25 years, but instead there was almost nothing. Won't bother dropping plastic tank again! Should be up to putting things back rather than pulling them apart soon, would be nice to see the track again one day

Umm yeah sorry, kind of a slow response. Re the clutch, the current one is some sort of generic xceed 5 puck thing with a slightly lightened flywheel. I have to keep a clutch with the same number of plates (ie 1) as stock so am pretty limited. Having said that was much happier with my prior clutch, it was a custom single plate with billet flywheel and a full face (not puck) clutch. I used it happily for years but in the end it sometimes slipped with very big launches on sticky tyres. Once that had happened more than once I had to move to something with more clamping force because racing with a clutch welded to the flywheel is inconvenient Basically race clutches get very hot, especially with gtr launches (eg rallies, hillcimbs etc) and having a full face greatly reduces hot spots. Oh yeah, and the car launches beautifully, and I've never broken a tailshaft/driveshaft/gearbox/diff over 10 years of abuse

I have decided to move to a Haltec ECU and Dash, and so I no longer need my Ruzic setup. Package includes: Ruzic Engine Monitor Ruzic Data Logger Garmain GPS receiver The set cost over $1000 and worked well, selling in working order for $500....get data logging cheap!

Also have an R34 GTT / W34 Stagea S2 Oxygen sensor for sale, $90 delivered.....because it turns out it has a different plug to S1 Purchased from Kudos last week, brand new in box http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/genuine-nissan-pitwork-lambda-oxygen-sensor-nissan-skyline-r34-25gt-25gt4-25gtt-gtv-rb25de-rb25det-neo-p-187.html According to them it fits Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT (RB25DE Neo 6, 05/1998 - 08/2002) Nissan Skyline ENR34 25GT-4 (RB25DE Neo 6, 05/1998 - 06/2001) Nissan Skyline ER34 25GT-T (RB25DET Neo 6, 05/1998 - 08/2002) Nissan Skyline ER34 GT-V (RB25DE Neo 6, 01/1999 - 08/2002) Nissan Stagea WGNC34 25TX-FOUR, Series 2 (RB25DET Neo 6, 08/1998 - 03/2001) Nissan Stagea WGNC34 RS-Four S, Series 2 (RB25DET Neo 6, 08/1998 - 03/2001) Nissan Stagea WGNC34 RS-Four V, Series 2 (RB25DET Neo 6, 08/1998 - 03/2001) Nissan Stagea WGC34 RS-V (RB25DET Neo 6, 08/1998 - 03/2001)

well I've got a 32 in pieces in the garage, and both front and rear passenger side shafts are about 600 long, definitely neither is 570ish