Duncan

It would have to be the same setup as mine; R32 N1 turbos with 0.8bar boost. Makes about 250kw.

Having said that, I did see a WRX finish the Bathurst 12hours earlier this month

WRXs are far less common and successful in production car racing or tarmac rallies than Evos are. Actually, Evos are like arseholes....

BTW if the parts department told you it was "illegal" to give you a part number you should report them to their manager. They may decide not to give you the part#, but it is certainly not illegal.

Luke what is your ride height, wheel alignment, which tyres, and what is wrong with the handling that you are trying to fix?

Yeah 180kw at 3500 is pretty fun, I'd be surprised if there were many RB setups making that sort of power I'm actually not sure of the exact turbo specs; I originally had an ebay "T3/4" bush bearing turbo on there and put a garret ball bearing core in when it failed. If it helps the turbo anorak wearers the core tag says "PC 0105J 7-6451-5005". But whatever it was, it was spot on what I was after

I've had trouble with cheap timing lights reading double on the gtr, I ended up with a snap on one. For the impact wrench I ended up going the Makita 18v one. Its not the best or torque-iest but has been sufficient for everything I've tried it on. More importantly thought they have a range of other 18v cordless stuff without batteries (skin only) at prices that I can afford to collect few different things at...I've got impact wrench, drill, screwdriver, recipro saw, line trimmer etc. Stubborn balancer bolts are best removed with one of those "power bars" basically a long arm with a 1/2" socket fitting that you whack with a hammer...I'm sure they've been covered earlier in this thread.

if you want a cheap dedicated track car to learn in buy a under 2l IPRA car, or like Chris and Mark did, go the MX5 Already built, easy to find, cheap, easy on tyres and pads. Don't worry about Evos vs GTRs if you want regular time on the track. A GTR will cost 20k per year to run hard at the track.

BTW for anyone else that has this sort of issue the Google Translate app is excellent. Take a pic, select the text, it converts it to English.

I didn't intend to get involved in the usual FIP section pissing contest.....just to make the point that if your tuner says they "tuned for response" without changing anything mechanically you better find a tuner who isn't talking shit. Jimmy, I was listing mechanical factors that affect response; once the mods have started most people forget how early the standard setup gets on boost. I built the stagea deliberately for response which is why it has standard zorst manifold, standard cams, standard head, small turbo and 3 litre bottom end. And it makes 18psi by 3200 rpm If I wanted more response I would add cam gear (as I have on the race car), it can bring on boost a few hundred revs sooner at the cost of top end power. But frankly it comes on hard enough early enough to empty the fuel tank quickly. For a race car I would say it is a very different concern. Full boost at 5 or even 5.5 is adequate especially if you have short gears and a standard or raised rev limit.

BTW I just wanted to clarify something from earlier in the thread. Choices made during tuning won't give you more responsive motor, or at least there is no compromise to be made between power and response in tuning. The tuner is either making all available power at a given load cell or they are not, the only option is less timing or more fuel which are safety margins - they won't increase response. Any gain in the response is in the mechanical setup, not the tune. Smaller turbo Lighter turbo rotating mass More capacity Shorter intake Smaller Cams Cam timing Smaller, shorter exhaust manifold Free flowing exhaust Smaller intercooler Holding wastegate fully shut until it opens

standard for sure. nothing spools up like a little ceramic turbo

Sure have, I run them on the race car when I'm allowed to, have them on my stagea, and used to have them on my 350z What are you looking to use them for?

I run a standard, shimmed diff in my race car and it seems to go adequately. I can't see any reason to spend 4x as much on an aftermarket option.

Wow that was an excellent race to watch, and top work from the strategy guys in the top teams to have 4 cars finish within 30 seconds after 12 hours. I'm really surprised the Ferrari held on because those mercs were perfect for that track. It was a shame to see the GTR's bad luck, but these things are very common in long races. We got to have a reasonable look at the car and I don't think the damage will buff out.

We'll be there but heading up tonight; the race starts are 6.15 and I don't want to miss it. See y'all up there

Pretty late, but I'll be heading along in the Cima Good on Motoractive for their sponsorship of the event, and putting the cruise together.

sorry missed the responses here somehow.... Scotty not sure....but I do know I'm not a qualified mechanic for ICE cars either Nissan would no doubt tell you that you need specialist training and tools, but in practice the only high voltage stuff is charger inlet at front to charger under rear parcel shelf to batteries under floor to motor. Everything is very obvious, large orange cables, and there is a built in kill switch in the rear floor that disconnects the battery. everything else is just normal mechanical stuff anyway. Those running costs are for a 30klm daily round trip, plus whatever trips on the weekend - it's been excellent. Justin the issue for charging on the road is not so much the available power but the actual charging unit. a fast charger runs to $20k plus so there is no business case to put one in. There are portable 15A or 10A (which comes with the car) but that means waiting for hours. Have confirmed unfortunately through multiple sources that the nismo ECU is not an option or Aus spec cars....so will be waiting some time for the chance for more powah 10,000klm service this week, fixed price $89.12

yeah they are the main 2 organisers for supersprints; between them they run about 10 a year, how many do you need?!?

Can't do much better than 1st Chris, well done. Mazman were you running? how did you go? Maybe you need more tyre, not less boost Also best wishes to the competitor who was airlifted, no doubt hillclimbs can be dangerous, but I guess that is what makes them challenging.

btw very interested in this option too...anyone used this style? I like the price, small size, and don't care it might be slow when it's not used that often..... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Rivnut-Rivetnut-Nutsert-Fitting-tool-M4-M5-M6-Kit-car-rivet-nut-special-insert-/171218249071?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item27dd67256f

everywhere man, they are the coolest of the cool tools. basically they insert a knurled nut into sheet metal so you can fix a bolt into it. mostly m6 ones for holding race car stuff in place, although I wouldn't trust them for anything serious. I'm looking for one too...but would prefer the type shorter type with handles that turn rather than the style Dale posted which require a lot of clearance to use. One like this: http://www.wurth.co.uk/hand-tools/riveting/rivet-nut-tools/ratchet-rivetnut-gun-kit, or possibly the one rob posted, I've never seen/used that style

Those sway bars were all custom made by Sydneykid (Gary) when he was the owner of Selbys, so that is why they wouldn't have a number for them. Those links however are not stagea specific so Selbys probably still carry the links and know what the correct bushes are. Just measure the inner and outer diameter of the bush, and how wide it is, and try again with those measurements. If Selby's aren't interested in helping (sound like they might not be if they didn't ask you to measure them), you can try any local bush manufacturer, those are pretty generic.

wow great effort, well done Nissan jp!

Due to an ordering mistake I've got a set of Dunlop Sport Maxx TT tyres for sale. These are an excellent road tyre, runners up in the motor mag tyre test 2012, more details on them here: http://www.dunloptyres.com.au/dotCMS/TyreDetailAction?website=DUN&websegmentcode=PASSENGER&mtpcode=00780&from=nPerPage Size is 225/55R17 which will fit a 6-8" wide 17" rim. Brand new, still got the stickers on them Price is $1000 firm, I'm losing on these so grab a bargain. Happy to sort out delivery in Sydney or Canberra, but sorry no postage.