Duncan

Yeah I was one of the people who couldn't get 595RS on R34 rims, they tried over 120psi to pop it on. There was at least one other person with the same problem. On the other hand I do now have 595SS on those same R34 GTR rims....so get them to try a little more pressure The underlying issue is basically that both Nissan and Federal push the limits of "compatibility" in the angle of their rim edge and bead respectively because both were trying to get top performance....the issue shows when you try and put a very aggressive tyre on a very aggressive rim.

sorry to say, any courier company is expert at denying responsibility for broken goods....they do it all day every day. I can't see you getting far arguing with them, why would they change their position

I recently asked a similar question and just ended up going for a mitre saw with an ally blade because it is relatively cheap and versatile. Seems fine for light/home use

It was a good cruise yesterday, thanks to Theo and Craig and everyone else involved for making it happen; it was a great turnout. I also enjoyed meeting a good bunch of people at lunch, I didn't know anyone on the table when we started but everyone was great.

hey isn't it a long weekend down there? You lot should be out on the town not sitting in front of computers!

I don't agree with this That will often solve the issue. I would follow this process. 1/ pull the pads out and rotors off, and clean everything THOROUGHLY with brake cleaner. You might need a stiff brush to dislodge old dust. Dust between the pads and brake cylinders, between the pad shims (you did keep them, right?), and where the pads are held in the calipers (eg sides, springs, pins etc) is what causes the vibration/noise 2/ lightly resurface the pads. Easiest is a bench grinder (take it very easy!), harder is hand sanding and least effective is rubbing it on some rough concrete. 3/ reassemble the pads using all shims. use a little copper grease or anti-squeal between each pad/shim/cylinder layer 4/ head out to somewhere open and quiet to bed them in again. 3-5 stops from about 80 down to about 20 to get them nice and toasty, and then drive slowly for about 5 min with no or minimal braking to let them cool again. You can tell when they are warm enough because you will start to smell them (you may also see some smoke depending on the pad and it's coating). I have never had a set of discs and pads that kept on squealing after following these, and that includes race pads on the race car. You certainly do not have to live with it.

Absolutely, they have been making quality parts for RBs for years. Also Greg was an active member on here for a while. I have one of their sump adapters in my rb30 stagea; I did have a problem with a leak but I believe it was an installation error not manufacturing..it was fixed and has been running strong for about 150,000klm in 5 years

lol we have a health and fitness section? anyway, they are all removed now.

I'm not sure of the source (maybe other admins are), but we are all busy cleaning them up. Looks like someone's already done the cleanup this morning. It's basically like a war out there....the forums let us do certain things to block spammers, and the spammers keep finding ways to get around them. These days I guess they are doing the registrations manually because the registration controls are pretty good. There are further controls we can implement but they start to affect real users so there is a balance to be struck. Please keep reporting when you see them so nothing gets missed. Terry....school holidays!

hmm OK I might do the same. even with a 2nd hand laptop it's a very cheap way to work with nissans. Trav, that's right, it says no registered VI/MI. I have registered the serial number but it won't connect. It seems to have a Bluetooth connection in Win7 which creates 2 com ports (which I had to set to com3 and com4 for the virtual session). The virtual session has the 2 com ports mapped but the software won't recognise it. Alternatively I connect via USB, I think the issue there is the lack of a Win7 driver for the Consult because it is available in the virtual session under the USB menu, but again isn't recognised by the software. This thread really isn't about connecting consults on Win7 so I'll start a new one if I get it sorted, if not I might just pick up an 2nd hand laptop....would be a shame because I've managed to get everything else (eg FAST) working through the virtual session or native on win 7 (datalogit etc)

Scotty or Trav, are you guys running the consult III natively on WinXP, or on Win7 with virtual XP. I am having trouble connecting with Win7/Virtual.

yep Pete Leemhuis who owns that car is based in Queanbeyan so maybe that's where he gets local work done. Its at Just Jap in Sydney most of the time. But I think pretty much anyone can do regular servicing of one....its just a car....

lol I couldn't even get it to Canberra let alone Melbourne. Anyway, sorry about the OT, I guess my point is I think selling Leafs is a lot smarter than selling GTRs....pretty easy to see which one is going to sell more over the years.

You're looking at it the wrong way.....$3 for a full tank, and quick enough to come 1st and 3rd at the last SAU Texi. Electric cars are definitely the future, the sooner they release a 000z the better

I'd rather have a leaf than a gtr....and they are no shitbox

Hi Chris, It is hard to guess accurately, but generally those points seem to be minor and consistent with a 25 year old car. - Oil leak on front, rear upper engine. Likely to be a cam cover seal, needs to be cleaned and replaced - Gearbox oil leak. Unusual to be the gearbox, the engine's rear main seal is more common. This could cost a bit to fix because it will probably require the gearbox to be removed. If its not too bad leave it until the clutch is next replaced when the gearbox has to come out anyway - Clutch fluid contaminated/ low - very common after 25 years. Probably just needs bleeding, at worst you may also need to replace the slave and/or master cylinder - Brake fluid contaminated - just need to bleed the fluid - steering rack fluid leak - some seal or other, or at worst recondition the whole rack - Brake hoses perishing/ageing - very common. replace them with either rubber or braided ones. BTW didn't RACV provide an estimate of cost for the repair as part of their report? I'd guess $1-2k to address them all if you are confident to do some of them yourself. What isn't on that list is rust, smoking engine, rough running engine, bent suspension etc etc, they are all the expensive things!

Was driving through Goulburn this morning when I spotted a car on a tow truck....looked closer and saw bits flapping, hammerhead front spoiler, aluminium side skirts....this could only be a superlap car heading to wakie for some testing not sure who it is, but it looks pretty serious. all c/f and lexen as far as I can see.

Don't think they are welcome in prod sports? there are a couple of them running in sports sedans under the trans am rules

Thanks Eric. And Adam the one I have has 19mm hex on the other end, I've also got no idea why it's not just 1/2 square....I always forget and pick up a ratchet.... Rob I've got something similar and it's invaluable when putting engines back together for the initial checks. In one case it saved me a world of trouble shooting when it helped identify a tiny leak in the turbo water banjo.

You typed R, I saw C

very cool....where did you get it? I bought a whole bloody set to get one of those, would love to know where to get one on it's own I use http://www.transquip.com.au/, good prices on kinchrome. But bunnings is hard to beat for one off items these days. They do guarantee lowest price

lol indeed I have, and am very happy with it. electronic (not vacuum) and runs off an additional stalk (very easy to use). Also has 2 memories so you can set it to common speeds easily eg 90 and 110. BTW I've never seen factory cruise on an r33 or a c34, but both clearly had a relief on the plenum casting for a second throttle....so it's not impossible they exist.

I agree....that would make more sense.....but try it anyway

Yes, and it is actually fairly common. It's likely to be a problem with earthing of the pump unit or the computer in the boot. Most often it is the pump unit because people forget to put the additional earth straps back on when they take the subframe out (eg replacing bushes)

actually you might have a point there....you wrote cold and I saw flu as if there is no such thing as a cold