Duncan

the story you were told makes absolutely no sense. maybe report it to the store manager transmax Z is not a Nissan fluid, it is a fluid that can be used in nissans or other suitable vehicles

thread moved to correct forum

Interesting question....yes in theory all you have to do is swap in the diff centre from the 33. There was apparently some trouble with fitting the centre into the 34 sump I bought due to clearance to the cover, will be interested to hear how you go.

I'm intrigued why you don't want a dog box if it is mostly a track car.......not only is the engagement much quicker, it is one of the few ways they can strengthen a gearset.

yep, but the point is ADRs require self levelling and washers, and these cars don't have them...so xenons have to be removed you should be able to put a normal halogen in them easily, it would have been done at compliance and maybe reversed since. or if you know it was not done at compliance get them to do it for you

It's very unlikely there were any modifications other than replacing any worn bearings and seals, and adding one or more additional plates for a quicker response. I'd be interested in specifics if something else was done. The plate replacement is very similar to reshimming the standard diff in process, and is equally effective; there is nothing wrong with the factory design except they are all a bit worn out after 20 years.

Yep exactly what sick_r31 said. Just remove the vanes from the rear stage only, put everything back together, and cap the rear outlet with an appropriate size bolt and copper washer.

Removing the vanes from the rear pump stage is easy and will work fine. Mine has been running that way for 8 years.

cool post you should get out to a couple of race meets (cams and mra), most people will be only too happy to show/talk to a new owner; and it lets you see what people are doing instead of just what people who talk on the internet think (imagine if you tried to learn to set up a race skyline based on SAU posts....)

Excellent choice Mark, Chris has been getting some very cheap racing out of his. Looking forward to seeing how it goes

umm actually I spotted you guys on the way past too, was hoping that wasn't what was going on.....sorry to hear

yeah the rules vary from state to state (and country for Bob!) too. In NSW you can tow to whatever the manufacturer specifies (it used to be based on car weight but that is kind of a silly rule). Since all Stageas came in under SEVS or RAWS, the manufacturer is whoever complied it. So really the legal NSW limit should be whatever a compliance shop is willing to say it is (and they then take the liability if they over estimate). Also keep in mind the tow bar needs to be engineered as well for a given load if you want to ensure it is legal

Yep Eric we always drill those out a fair bit larger.

I personally wouldn't take a plugged tyre on the race track, would be fine for road use though (in fact one of the cima's tyres needed a plug the other day). plug and retire them to road use...

absolutely don't worry about the compression until the rings are bedded in. and for what it's worth the motor should be warm too, as well as a healthy battery (which they normally aren't by the time a motor's been pulled out, rebuilt, and put back in)

lol must get there one day. (or not)

let me know if it's not sorted

That's the only way I've ever done it, and it seems to work fine. I be surprised if any "kits" were anything more than a couple of extra plates for the standard housing.

I love your style Hugh

when you say you hear a rattling but only up hill, does it stop immediately if you take your foot off the accelerator? And is it more likely to happen in high gears than low gears?

r32s all had 2 way mechanical diffs...it was only the vspec r33 that had an active diff (and a handful of gts-ts)

well it doesn't necessarily mean that....the "gauge" on the outside is just an indication it has taken a big hit, not a guarantee that it is farked. But in this case...if you have a red sensor, and if fwd doesn't work....then it might be fair to guess it is dead

Great to see Aussies taking it to them on their home soil.... well done

and yes 32 gtr and 33 gtst calipers and rotors are interchangeable (they are 2mm different width from factory). 34 gtst calipers and rotors must be used together, they are different from all other brake sizes

it's not an issue. I've been running m12 bolts (without a sleeve) for over 5 years. bolts clamp things together, they don't locate them