Duncan

factory flywheel bolts have a 19mm head, and factory clutch cover bolts have a 12mm head

So Dan, I rang Brad yesterday and got his voicemail which clearly said that his business was closed for "personal reasons" until the 28th. Do you think that he has stolen your money and is avoiding you, or do you think he has a genuine reason and that 2 rollcages sitting on a pallet may not be the biggest priorities in his life at this moment?

Well that is painful luck, but turbo failure regularly follows engine failure....the turbo bearings have even tighter clearances than the engine ones so they very commonly fail at the same time due to either the falling oil pressure when the engine bearing fails, or due to the metal that gets everywhere.

good work getting this group buy together, it can be a really frustrating trying to deal with any supplier delays when you are just trying to help out the community as a favour.

That I can answer, it keeps running fine. DJRIFT (Damo) is the guy to answer the tricky questions

But ACT isn't a state

and the more power you have, the more traction you need, so the softer the spring should be. But I can't see why you would expect much traction with 500+kw on street tyres on typically variable street surfaces. I'd always assumed that if you want that much power you *don't* want traction....so put some stiff springs in

The thread I locked yesterday started as a recommendation of where to get bolt on spacer and had become an argument about whether time attack is racing, it was nowhere near on topic and was becoming a meaningless argument and likely to lead to personal attacks. If you don't like a forum with discussions that stay on topic and don't get personal, go somewhere else.

sorry I think I left a few words out of that sentence.... I meant to say, what revs does it idle at in gear (generally lower than neutral in an auto, and turning on the aircon should raise the revs) but anyway I think you found the problem, any vacuum nipple without a hose must cause a leak. if you put your finger over it when the engine is running can you feel it sucking, and does it start to idle higher? If that is not the leak you might also have a small split in one of the hoses (very easy when removing and replacing brittle stock hoses, so double check everything. also check all the hose clamps that you had to undo on the intake to fit the turbo

+1. what revs? does it get better if you turn the A/C on? given the turbo swap, I'd suspect a vacuum leak.

Thread locked due to an absence of on topic discussion

BTW if I was doing a new car now I would just use 2 electric switches killing both legs of a relay (one +, one -). Easy to run the extra wires and no need to run full power all over the car. A switch like this would be appropriate for the external kill: http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=SP0786&form=CAT2&SUBCATID=978#1

Yeah that was on Neil's race car (http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/341836-neils-r33-gts-t-build/) It was run that way to retain the standard undercar main positive to the starter and front, so basically the + terminal runs to the switch near the seat, and then back to the boot. There are shorter was to cut it if necessary. It uses a dual pole switch to cut both the main battery and the main ignition (via a big relay). I've used a similar cut off in my race car (ie relay to cut ignition) but I'm not really happy with it in either car because the relay will eventually drain the battery unless the kill switch is pulled. I'd love to hear a better way to do it without hacking up factory looms too much.....without the ignition relay the alternator obviously keeps the car running even if the battery is isolated. Has Damo or someone else knowledgeable got an idea?

umm a bit late, but that's where mine is too, it is mounted on the scuttle panel thingy. I did not use a bracket it is just mounted straight on the plastic, and has survived 8 years of use so far (only ever gets pulled at scrutineering every now and then)

Thanks for the extra data guys, I've updated the graphs on the first page. And here's some more summaries: Average margin by brand cheapest and most expensive It's interesting that the margin varies by price and location....so if you feel like you are taken advantage of because of where you live.....you are....

yeah that's what I've set up....anyone who wants a like pm me your email address. Or if there is a better way to do it I'd be happy to know that too Me and computers good not.

Oh that was f**king hilarious. Well played

Hi Boris, please discuss trading with Blitz or R31Nismoid. The thread is closed in the meantime.

Hey Zeb, this is a very different project......keep in mind these were raced as "Street Sedans" in the NSW champs so there are a few ex race cars sitting in sheds getting dusty that you may want parts from....in particular anyone that has a bolt in cage Get in touch with these guys http://www.nswproductiontouringcars.com.au/nptc.html

the most important thing about a tyre is....can you afford to buy it wider tyres in the same brand and compound would almost always be faster. but the difference may not be worth the money. even weirder is that same width tyres for larger rims are more expensive. (eg 235/16 vs 235/18) despite there being less rubber. As "the checkout" would say......SCAM!

don't believe a word of it

I'm a little surprised no-one else is interested in collecting data....anyway here are 2 more from this week: United, Rozelle: 91:148.7, 100:167.7 Caltex, Majura ACT: 91:157.9, 95:168.9 And here are some sample graphs of the data. Thanks Ian for the link to base prices, here are the numbers for Sydney from that site: What do they say together? Buying on 98 from BP Marulan on a Saturday (175.9) would cost you 21c (12%) more than buying 95 from BP Pymble on a Wednesday (156.9). Who wouldn't want to pay 12% less for petrol?

Well you couldn't have a better debut....well done

lol, mod fail. how about now?

done, thanks for highlighting it.