Duncan

you have beaver too? but in this case the rear wheels are on the sloping section? I do like the no side rail idea.

Hey Daniel just so I am clear, the loom into the ignitor and into the CAS is not the same as the short loom between the ignitor and coil packs (which yes, is often crispy!). You should check them too, we don't want to see you stuck again! (new thread, or season 2 on this one???)

I spotted an Orange 33 with no rear wing boosting past my little shack at about 8 this morning, and then a black v36 near Majura Park shortly afterwards

sounds like a reasonable start. I would go a little more camber in the GTR but I think your car is strut front end, right? I'd also go less toe at the rear but again it is different to gtr setup.

yep more castor, less camber. Castor is dynamic camber so you get the benefits without the drawback on straight line traction. you have too much caster when either: * you cannot turn the steering wheel * the wheel fits the guard or firewall

Hey great news to hear it is running, and well done to the guys who were able to heap over to lend a hand....that's how car clubs should be. However....just because it is running now doesn't mean you have no problem. As Peter Brock once noted, he never met a car that fixed itself. Whatever was wrong still is, and it will let you down again one day, maybe in a less convenient place. I would suspect bad wiring as the most likely culprit (I think someone else said that a few pages ago). Get the car started, and the jiggle the following wiring: *Into the ignitor from the engine loom * from the ignitor to each coil pack * into the CAS. I think it is likely that when you fiddle with one of them the car will start to misfire or even stall. When it does you know which part of the loom is the problem. Don't tug on it like a 14yo boy, but don't be to gentle either because you may not make the issue recurr.

true. I'm not sure how much work it is on a stock 25...on a 26 it needs CAS off, water line disconnected (possible re-bleed) and then about 3 bolts. not a big deal. You should either carefully mark the CAS position before removing it, or redo the base timing after.

yes that is what I would do. Redo the compression test while hooked to a running engine by jumper leads When stinkypoo drops by, swap the ignitor, CAS, AFM and ECU (one by one) and see if it makes a difference. If still crappy results and no luck, take the timing cover off.

seriously though, I need a decent gear knob. got one?

yeah mate it's the same car, we bought it from Marty. I knew it was rare but didn't realise it was famous until later. there is one other registered ST I know of up in Brisbane, but it is also off the road for a rebuild at the moment AFAIK.

on the down side it's not impossible to suddenly break a timing belt. how many klm ago was it last changed? Still, I'd redo the test first with jumper leads connected to a running car.

oh, and yeah, the race car never really got a build thread. it was kind of built before the internet was invented. plus there was very little building, just lots of rebuilding HA HA HA. here it was the day I picked it up

ahh yeah will do in a few weeks....need to get something finished in the garage thread first. I'll let you know working away from home really f**ks up working on stuff at night.

lol not this race car. <------- that race car. this one is a long way down the list. I think.

nah pretty sure there is no update. It would be nice to having it running again one day. on the upside but only indirectly related, the ute is finished, it's running nicely. now onto the race car

here is yokohama's opinion on safe tyre sizes for a given rim size. http://www.yokohamatire.com/tires_101/customizing/rim_wheel_width/ that shows the narrowest 45 profile tyre to run on a 10" rim is 255....a long way from 225. this discussion is kind of like someone saying "the thinner you are, the better you look". It is only true until it becomes dangerous. I have a real issue with people flippantly advising that something "fits fine" when it is downright dangerous. OP said he has 255/40/18 which yoko show as the narrowest tyre you can run on a 10" rim.

why would you say it "fits easily" when the wheel you fitted to the front was 1" narrower, and had a dangerously narrow tyre on it?

hahah see I am getting old. I remember when Time Attack was called a Supersprint, and when Drift was the Next Big Thing and had a national series. BTW is it also possible that the front shocks are for a GTR? Are they the same as GTST in R33s?

ECU talk may show if a sensor like CAS, TPS or AFM is showing abnormal readings, or no reading at all Switching parts is a better option if you can because it rules out everything with your part (that may not always be obvious just from the sensor reading)

I've never been a real fan of ruining the alignment and running too narrow (stretched) tyres just to fit a wheel. If you are going to run 235s an 8" wheel is sufficient and will fit much better.

that's what I was afraid of. 18x10+15 is for a GTR. I've never tried anything too aggressive on a GTST but the biggest I can think of is stock 33 GTR wheels which are 17x9

I'd stay away from a $20 ho.

umm my question is.....is your 33 a GTST or a GTR?

This thread is so popular they will probably commit to Season 2. Stinkypoo, I think swapping a few bits is the quickest way to work this one out

Do you have any driving talent you don't need? Price? If not, what about a gear knob, I need one for the ute.