Duncan

haha good call. some jobs are always better to have someone else do!

I run mine a little higher than stock and have no issues. It's nice not to worry about parking, gutters, driveways, speedhumps etc What sort of problems were you thinking?

Uh-oh. But what is a GDE?

Farking. Cold AND foggy. You guys have it all!

You need the loom that matches the externals and sensors, and they all go in the head. So pick on that matches your head (c34 stagea?) Having said that, looms can be modified if required. You really need to change the ECU when you change to a 3l bottom end because the airflow will be very different, so buy an ECU that fits into your engine loom (although again, the loom can be modified for a different ECU, and many ECUs are total wire in anyway)

and where we find out if Shell hit a roo? weird place. roadkill seems to be the common thread?

It's just a boring 1700kg, 80kw hatchback. On eco tyres. What's to fear? BTW, what is facebook?

soooooooo.....did anyone get the result sheets?

Here are my tips: 1) use 2 jacks. that lets you change the angle of the gearbox as required 2) make sure the rear of the motor is as low as possible. ie the rear of the head should be resting on the firewall 3) it will not go on the right way around. you will always need to twist it so that the starter motor housing clears the body. Once it has cleared you twist it back around to straight 4) the gearbox angle and motor angle must match perfectly. this is the biggest tip! 5) if they are lined up properly and not popping in, you may need to rotate the gears a little. this is because the splines on the input shaft have to match the splines on the clutch. this bit is luck! If you need to turn the gears a little put it in a short gear and turn the tailshaft or rear wheels (assuming they are off the ground!) 6) the gearbox angle and motor angle must match. I know I already said that but it's important! as you get closer it gets much easier to judge by how the flywheel compares to the front of the bellhousing. If the gap is bigger at the top vs bottom or right vs left it is not straight enough. 7) because of the spline alignment luck (#5) it generally goes in with a little clunk. When you hear that you have won! 8) once the box is within 2-5cm you can help it in using a big g clamp or 2 between the block and bellhousing. Once you are that close the input shaft is lined up OK and it is just the final adjustments. Never never force the box when the gap is large because you can bend the gearbox input shaft, which f**ks it. good luck!

On the bumper sticker? Bathurst. Why cop shop

mmm Sutton rd before that we had to hire oran park's skid pan.

Neither was at fault, it happened on a race track, each driver is responsible for their own damage. Like Pete said, it does deserve a punch up in the pits though. And whoever was running the day did not brief and monitor their drivers properly.

Gary's thread is right, he knows his shit. It's the 300 pages since then that confuse things

that car looks slow and boring

lol that's why m35s look so fat....they chomp on c34s!

Thanks to the organisers today, it was a great run, hassle free and quick turnarounds. Also thanks because it must have sucked standing out in the rain in the arvo. And....especially thanks to Nick and family for providing some juice last night....we made it home with 8% battery left (HEAPS!)

morning. skids today. anyone else coming along?

Its all easy mate, just the normal rb30 4wd stuff You will need a sump adapter. You will need to sort out the oil pickup. The lower gearbox to sump bolts will not line up by the width of the adapter. The head will be 30mm higher, affects to radiator hose, intake and exhaust. But that's about all. Plenty of clearance for the motor including keeping the factory strut brace. Oh, and it is an awesome conversion

lol I mean NKOTB not me But thanks anyway Rosie

I'm the new kid on the block. I'll bet Shell's the only one that remembers. and the cold hasn't been so bad once you get used to the initial shock. I guess it will still get a few degrees colder over the next month?

you've got to get it done by someone with demonstrated experience for the use you have. There are too many ways to f**k them up

Water temp is a terrible gauge to tell if the car is ready to drive hard. If that's all you have keep going easy for a few minutes after it reaches normal temp. If you have oil pressure, notice how high it is when cold, and how low it is after a long drive. When it comes down from high/cold to low/normal it is ready to hoon. If you have oil temp, anything over about 60- 70 is ready like trouble said The important thing is it might take much longer than you'd guess to warm up, esp on a Canberra morning. The stag is not getting anything near warm on my commute. Dont thrash a cold engine! It is way bad for it!

Yep that is exactly what I tried. The casings are different.

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if everyone blocks ads, we lose the forum's main form of income, so we all have no SAU. Love the ads. Click on them sometime. You don't want to know what it would cost to run a forum this big each month