Duncan

man....webber is the quickest vehicle to go backwards since the french tanks! and shaun....you are on drugs....button's win was lucky not masterful, and webber's hit on hamilton was just back luck afer homo stuffed it. yes there are lots of one eye-d fans on here but you are making ferrari fans sound sensible and reasonable!

so...why did you change the water pump to fix an oil leak? most likely it is just a rocker cover gasket or cam seal. head gasket is below the power steer bracket.

actually, I reckon we should quote "spark plug kilowatts". since internal combustion engines are only about 40% efficient a standard gtr makes over 800spkw

lets face it....your flywheel does not drive the cars....the tyres do. other than just a bigger number, or maybe comparison to a factory car claim....what relevence is a flywheel power figure?

lol....way to start a fight!!!! what if the friction/heat/power loss is directly related to the torque you push on it with? on the other hand....does a 1000hp drag car effectively have a 200hp heater in the gearbox??

but its more likely you have a damaged piston. assuming the tst was accurate (and i guess there were other symptoms anyway....) just get the motor pulled down. there is no chance its ok with that compression and we are all just guessing at the cause

for what it's worth, apart from the diff ratio, stagea/gtr/gts4 sumps are identical. i can't comment on the auto trans issue.... except to say if I did have an auto I would still run an after market ecu. my uneducated guess is the shift control impact is overstated

out of interest....what do you think is a fair thing to happen to your unlicesed and uninsured mate?

yeah they are the hoses I'm using

there are 2 woodruff keys, one for the timing gear and one for the balancer. Assuming you didn't take the timing gear off and did put the one back under the balancer that is not your problem. still need to pull everything apart again to see what is wrong though....

great test of the front splitter that pic is a crack up. I think I have spotted an issue at the rear......you have no fuel tank....at least you have space for the diffuser. we have been struggling with the same issue, fuel tank, 2nd radiator for the water to air intercooler and a diffuser all meant to go in the same spot

we used 1/2" lines for the oil cooler and t-ed it into that

one of us has missed something important here! could well be me as usual every motor needs to breathe to releive crank pressure. in factory it breathes back into the intake. many people change to external breathers that pic you have seems to show the factory breather back to the intake connected from the right side of catch can

you can ask that again! actually your 3 questions make we want to take a pic of the genuine nissan carboard guides I was running (you can tell they are factory because they have "NISSAN™" written on them. But I am too drunk to bother getting up not factory, can't offically run them

subframe mods look good. how did you end up measuring the front end of the LCA position?

look I'm not saying it was a brilliant decision from the emo driver....but if you are doing rally you have no right to expect the road to be clear around the corner. anything could happen or change from the recce notes, that evo could have been crashed into the bank and sideways across the road (came across one of those at buller, an evo by chance). hell, a tree fell over the track at the bathurst 12 hours the other week! so no need for anyone to carry on like a dickhead

hey.....its saturday night!!!11ty

meh. 0 to speed limit in 4 or 5 seconds, then what?

I owe another update or 2.... engine #8 Engine/Car: rb26dett / r32 gtr Type of failure: under 300klm....badly spun big end bearings......caused by leaving out the sleeve between the block and oil cooler/adapter when assmbling the motor. small part, easy to miss, ouch. Factors influencing the failure: silly mistake! State of tune of the engine: standard except for cam gears and computer. approx 250kw Suspension and tyres: bilsteins, kumho v70A. Oil used and service interval: mineral run in oil General comments: Nice to have something different! Classic 20c part wrecking a motor engine #9 Engine/Car: rb26dett / r32 gtr Type of failure: head gasket. probably warped head and/or block Factors influencing the failure: my unwillinginess to stop when the water temp went over 125o...it was the last race meet at Oran Park, and I was winning. State of tune of the engine: standard except for cam gears and computer. approx 250kw Suspension and tyres: bilsteins, falken sp700 slicks Oil used and service interval: honestly can't remember....I run whatever synthetic stuff I have around in 10w40 or 20w50. change every 2 race meets General comments: this was a funny one, the car has always run hot when being pushed hard, up to 110o. I run straight distilled water + redline water wetter which makes a big difference. Also twin pass pwr radiator, oversized fan pulley, n1 water pump, standard intercooler and nothing else in front of the radiator. But since I changed the turbos late last year it has had a huge overheating problem - 10 minutes at full throttle and the temps go 120-130. I had been lucky for about 5 race meets, ran out of luck this time. Will be interested to see what is wrong when I tear the motor down, will also xray block if nothing else obvious Looks like I'm on track to finally hit double figures this year!

and the seperation happens when oily air hits the side of the container and condenses back out. the more surface area in the can the more oil it extracts. apparently circular ones are better because the air is happy to follow the outside of the container instead of getting stopped by corners

ahh fair enough. the car has many unengineered mods. I have not bothered getting it engineered and would not unless I was pinged. I have been driving it with unengineered mods like 99% of people on here basically since I got it.

yeah it does happen, there are some bad ones out there. the first one for my stagea was cracked, didn't find out until it was xrayed. fortunately in my case the workshop supplying it replaced it. but even so its only a couple of hundred if it doesn't work out

hicas out oil pressure and temp gauges, water temp gauge, mechanical fuel presure gauge at the fuel rail big sump head drain head oil feed restrictor catch can big radiator and oil cooler silicon lines under the plenum, and also intercooler and radiator lines. good hoseclamps too. i agree accusump is a good idea too, I've never tried it but those running them swear by them Thats about it....if you don't push it too hard it will be fine

great list...I want to do them all will probably be back on track in about 8 weeks so the SAU day on 18 June is my next target

its all cool, this is a discussion forum not a bible! No doubt there was a heap of stuffing around with the taller block, and I have enough projects on the go - exactly why I got a workshop to do this build. But there is no way a stoker crank is better value when they start at 5k+ just for the crank - I got the rb30 for a couple of hundred bucks and plenty of people have swapped them for a case of beer. That's a big head start and you still get the extra 200cc and better rod/stroke ratio honestly not sure what you mean? I got a blue slip for the conversion. clearance was fine (big advantage doing this in a stagea vs a gtr). I know lots of gtr people have troubles. The only clearance issue I had is the turbo is very close to the strut brace but that is with a high mount manifold. plenty of space at the motor.