Duncan

hicas out oil pressure and temp gauges, water temp gauge, mechanical fuel presure gauge at the fuel rail big sump head drain head oil feed restrictor catch can big radiator and oil cooler silicon lines under the plenum, and also intercooler and radiator lines. good hoseclamps too. i agree accusump is a good idea too, I've never tried it but those running them swear by them Thats about it....if you don't push it too hard it will be fine

great list...I want to do them all will probably be back on track in about 8 weeks so the SAU day on 18 June is my next target

its all cool, this is a discussion forum not a bible! No doubt there was a heap of stuffing around with the taller block, and I have enough projects on the go - exactly why I got a workshop to do this build. But there is no way a stoker crank is better value when they start at 5k+ just for the crank - I got the rb30 for a couple of hundred bucks and plenty of people have swapped them for a case of beer. That's a big head start and you still get the extra 200cc and better rod/stroke ratio honestly not sure what you mean? I got a blue slip for the conversion. clearance was fine (big advantage doing this in a stagea vs a gtr). I know lots of gtr people have troubles. The only clearance issue I had is the turbo is very close to the strut brace but that is with a high mount manifold. plenty of space at the motor.

exactly the same reason I put an rb30 in my stagea....check out my thread in the stagea section btw i kept an undersize turbo because i love the instant response. obviously it runs out of puff at the top end, and also it doesnt help fuel economy but it makes me smile every time I floor it and I have full boost by 2500

very cheap from nissan or just jap whoever to buy the coil pack loom for a gtr. your profile and post dont say what car you have.

not sure what you mean on that genelle, most pads are same inside and out. some have wear indicators or different backing plates but the pads themselves should be the same?

but what are you doing with the car? street only/street and light track/full on racing. if you can afford endless there are plenty of other options available.

well simply enough - this is a private driveway not a race track. I have no idea what insurance the owner has in place to protect themselves. Maybe nothing?? There are no run offs There are no sand traps There are trees beside the tarmac. I would expect to be sent home if I left the track or was constantly sideways or looked like I was constantly trying to hard. I have no idea why these guys are willing to share this place, but I am delighted they do. Anyone who ruins the place by ignoring the owner's rules would be a real f**kwit.

yeah cylinder 1 is at the front, and cylinder 6 is where at least 50% of failures happen if you suspect a problem. it doesn't matter if the other plugs are in or out (there is no connection between individual cylinders except the crank shaft) but with them out watch out for the 150psi air shooting out the spark plug hole!

I'll be there as long as the car is running. However, I don't think this will be a track day in the normal way (ie not full race speeds, this is just a private driveway)

forget everyone who suggests more power. if you want to go faster fit some bigger sway bars (about $200 front and rear from whiteline) and $1000 of really good road tyres. and practice your driving skills instead.

planning to crash? or is there a specific reason? I really don't have much time for a safety rating based on the number of airbags after you crash rather than the car's ability to dodge 99% of possible incidents

and if you are genuinely worried....just save yourself time and start at cylinder 6 not 1....

yeah things are obviously 50% harder now OP is gone. SAU NSW has booked Wakefield back in November 09 for the only unbooked weekend date in 2010 - 18th June. We are also on the waiting list for any other weekend dates. As always we will run it as a driver training day to help our first time trackers get out there and give it a go Eastern Creek is not realistic to hire at $10k ($300 for 33 cars) to break even on a week day. For those who have already done a few track days I would recommend Circuit Club days, SSSC days or just open wakie days. And post up in here and get a few other people along Also Noel (Fineline), one of our favourite cockroaches is down at Wakie in April so head along then Personally at this stage the june date is my target to have the race car back on the track running well

haha I assumed you would have it in the boot while you did the doughnuts. the funny thing is....pretty much everyone reading this thread would assume that we are kidding. anyway....neil is working with the superlappers to work out something we can afford...we would like to support the event if possible

lol, are you sure?? just buy yellow jackets or jjr or whatever. If they don't work in your useage they are backed by real australian companies who I'm sure will refund.

ahh yeah not ready to put on yet....it is at the power coater's (CRAVED) getting re-done. but since I left him with 2 sway bars 2 timing belt covers 4 cam covers 1 twin turbo pipe 4 coil pack covers 1 radiator 1 intercooler 1 oil cooler 1 sump 2 turbo housings I can't complain about it taking a few weeks I told him to "surprise" me with the new colour....I'm a bit nervous.

jesus....someone put wheels under that fridge!

and cheap

Personally there are lots of reasons that I went rb30 instead of stroker rb26. here are some cheaper bottom end ok, much cheaper bottom end. $000s. more capacity (yes, there is no substitute for cubes) more torque at the same revs. and less revs required for longer, happier life. better rod/stroke ratio (rb26 is already terrible, stroked rb26 are worse again) down sides for the rb30: stuffing around with the impact of the taller block - gearbox bolts, radiator hoses, dump pipes, intake.

excellent choice, I would definately go a logging dash if I was starting over again. it might seem more expensive at first but it will be so much cheaper, more reliable and more useable over the years

I think the issue is that there are no cool pics of M35s. Try searching for "C34" instead you will find heaps of cool pics

actually....one thing. I don't trust the degree markings on *any* cam gear, china or not. ie don't read the internet and just set them to exhaust +4, intake -2 or whatever. you *must* dial them in for your exact setup. so expect to spend some dyno time trying different settings otherwise you are wasting your money

lol aint that the truth! I've been running JJR on the race car for years with no issues (other than user error lol) also have run the tomei ones and found no difference.

fair enough. one unfortunate day i forgot to tighten the bolts on my jjr one before going on the dyno. It happily slipped from one end of it's adjustment to the other without mashing anything.