Duncan

Took it for a run up the back way to Bathurst the other day then dropped some friends back at the airport and home. Long day in a car that is more zoomy than cruisey but it did well. However....while pottering through sydney traffic getting the shits about MAP sensors, twin plate clutches and lumpy cams I heard a grating start out of the front brakes. I haven't had the wheels off for a while but I do keep an eye on the pads and they weren't due for replacement Took the front wheels off, driver's side was fine but navigator side has been wearing very unevenly. The wheel bearings seem fine so I assume sticking pistons in the caliper. To be fair, these calipers have been on the car since 2013 and have done some hard days work in that time. The pads were almost due for replacement, probably 30%, the discs measured up at 30.6mm which I'm fine with, but sticking pistons is an issue. There are no dust covers on these calipers and I guess they are intended to be thrown away and replaced. Otherwise the calipers, discs, pads, hardware has all stood up pretty well, so depending on replacement cost for a caliper or 2 they have been good value The disc took a little damage but looks good enough to me to use again

Adding to this, because the miss at idle was back in the Cima. While I did change the plugs (why the hell would you have 8 cylinders!) I also pulled off the throttle body and had a look in the intake.... And the rear of the throttle body was terrible too Ran a can of upper engine cleaner through it as well as cleaning the throttle body itself and changing the plugs and the idle was good again

Ha yeah the bolt supersession is a pain. Happily I've pull apart enough cars to have original driveshaft bolts But I went to get a set of genuine engine/gearbox bolts and had a similar stuff around. I think it relates to the original bolts being cadmium coated and everything zinc now. This is the current part numbers for the engine/gearbox bolts, a couple of them are UD truck not nissan.

I reckon there is a place in the trackday market for data that is easily accessible (ie, you don't need that engineer). I find lots of interesting stuff in the data but generally it is that night rather than between sessions. With this you can clearly scroll through particular parts quickly/easily so that is good. Also you could always put it in a faster mate's car and see what they are doing that you aren't. It's level up but when we did Bathurst 6 hours we had an engineer comparing data from all 6 drivers in 3 similar cars, everyone got something out of it

I've used a dolly like that before (well, not as sturdy), but keep in mind the car will be way less stable on it due to the small wheels and narrow wheelbase. Rolling it on anything but a totally flat floor will be puckering

still pretty hard to follow 🤣

Pretty poor form if an aftermarket bolt doesn't come with the correct torque in the instructions. I'd call the supplier and ask

OK, not dropping by, thanks. I guess you'll be able to sell all that in country pretty easily

lol we paid $40k for our R33 GTST in 2000....was a beautiful condition, 3 years old blue one. can't remember what I sold it for, but not much. Either way, at $$ per track day it was a bargain mate, there would be new skylines owners on these forums from American that weren't even born then...

Sorry, forgot to add, at $1400 it is still cheaper than 4 tyres for a track day so plenty of people will pay that

I guess it is aimed at track day not racing, easy to install and use but not the sort of functionality you get out of a proper logger like IC3 or motec stuff

came here for pics of head. left disappointed

nothing could be more bogan mate, steelies on the back

Yeah Wakefield had been regularly breaching their noise rules for about 10 years but everyone was turning a blind eye until Wakie submitted a DA to expand late last year. At that point Council had to request community input and received a whole bunch of evidence that Wakie had been regularly breaking the previous conditions so Council approved the DA but with updated noise conditions. Wakie were unhappy with that result so they appealed to Land and Environment court who found that Council had been too lenient, and applied even tougher conditions. Wakie are saying they can't operate under those conditions so are ceasing operation. Cluster f**k from start to finish, and the problem for Wakie and Council now is that neither of them can override the court decision, so they are jointly looking for state rule changes to help. I assume a bunch of rich arseholes will just buy it as a private track and use it once a month (which is allowed under the court ruling, just not more often) Bring on electric car racing, because if motorsport has to be obnoxiously loud to exist, it will get shut down everywhere. If you want to listen to engine noises all day buy a set of headphones.

lol, projects!

ouch. harrop probably should have mentioned if that is a thing...

What on earth is a wireless keyboard? Is that like a bluetooth front driveshaft when on a 2wd dyno?

Where are you Jarret? Location on profile would help me decide whether to lurk around your bin

Challenge Bathurst is worth it, even at the price. Its a track that can't be missed

lol I knew it, I'm an old man magnet!

If the disc is not exactly in the middle of the caliper pistons when bolted in, the offset is wrong. But, if the caliper is too far outwards, you can shim it back to the correct position with washers between the caliper and hub, just get some large diameter ones for maximum contact area. You can work around it if you need to, but it requires machining pads down to fit which is a pretty crap outcome... I leave the shields on the disc as much as possible, so either bend back or remove only where clearance is required. Rocks stuck in the brakes are common for both track and rally and it makes a worrying noise until you work out what it was. The only ducting I have is the N1 standard deflectors on the caster rods

Awwww.....Goldzilla posted here Did you try what zei20l said? nozzle is the most likely thing to be blocked and easy to check by pulling the hose off the back of it. Beyond that, looks like the hose runs along the inside of the sill where the wiring is. You'll need to pull up the kick panel (carefully, don't break irreplaceable clips!). Pull it apart at each connection you can to narrow down the blockage.

FWIW, might be easier to find a 1/2" to 3/4" reducing tee, a lot of that stuff appears to be stuck in the 60s....

great to hear, for future readers did it work OK as soon as you paired the phone?

Per above, it is the cap that is meant to vent air into the tank, so just undo it to eliminate that option.