WMDC35

Missed that one, I always just assume everyone has a dose pipe already

Just use the whole neo intake, the 33 iac only needs one plug unless you're running a/c? I just plugged it straight onto the neo & all ran fine, otherwise it's easy enough to make an adapter plate for the iac, I wouldn't bother trying to mate the manifolds together

/\ I didn't read all that but I remember the first time I drove a 20 I pushed the accelerator through the floor so hard there was calf pain, I hear you though with the price & availability of RBs getting worse for sure, just put a 25 turbo

It should run it, I've run a full neo de off an r32 25de ecu, ran fine, otherwise laser cut an adaptor plate & put the 33 IAC on

It'll love it, it's got head studs & ethanol, with the ks just go by the cluster, you'll feel a lot better lol

Come on Johnny, if the 33 hears you say that it'll blow up!

Just bend up a new pipe

It's also worth doing the studs for the idler & tensioner as have seen a couple break probably from previous over tightening

I've only been in manual V35s but I'd guess 0-100 they'd be pretty even stock, throw an exhaust on them both the JZX will probably be slightly ahead. They'd be close enough to get which ever you prefer the look & feel of.

What parts would you need?

As above, they would work but by the time you've had them cleaned & tested you'd be better off putting that money towards a new set

Is there brake fluid in the vac line off the booster?

I'm using 3", hasn't been a restriction as yet but if I was going in there I'd go bigger

I would leave the exhaust std on the NAs, it doesn't really make them go better & they can get a bit twangy

GReddy does an adjustable gear for VCT

As above really, power seems low, mine also makes 100+ more hp at 18 on 98e10.(10cm non antisurge) Shouldn't be too laggy, anyway just 30 it with the T67

Still going here, hasn't been getting much use though

Help with injector flow but the pump will have to work a bit harder, if you run out of injector first more fuel pressure, if run out of pump first less fuel pressure

I'd keep the cold side piping the same size as the turbo outlet. The FFP seems to have varying results, I wouldn't put one on a car now but also wouldn't take one off if it's already on there. If e85 is not convenient could do the e42 mix. There's a post from Status here somewhere saying the 8cm doesn't seem to be that much more responsive but loses about 30 or 40kw up top so if doing something with the turbo I'd probably go to a BW or PT. Stock cams & TB may make it feel a bit better in the mid range. E42, more boost & maybe head studs

Just do the 25, no science needed FFS

/\ That's the key, motors seem to last longer when you've got a spare one

Look where the coil loom plugs in, if the plug is flat with the pins in a row it's a s1, if plug is more square with 2 rows of 4 pins be s2

Different plugs for coil loom as s1 has ignitor, s2 doesn't, different afm plug, on late s2 with plastic cap cas the plug is same but wiring different

MCR is the only one I know still doing chips in Auckland, if towing isn't an option you could run a stock a31/r32/c33 rb25de ecu, wire the wastegate open & drive nicely

350 ish rwkw on 98 e10, no issues as yet (Kando)