WMDC35

I've only been in manual V35s but I'd guess 0-100 they'd be pretty even stock, throw an exhaust on them both the JZX will probably be slightly ahead. They'd be close enough to get which ever you prefer the look & feel of.

What parts would you need?

As above, they would work but by the time you've had them cleaned & tested you'd be better off putting that money towards a new set

Is there brake fluid in the vac line off the booster?

I'm using 3", hasn't been a restriction as yet but if I was going in there I'd go bigger

I would leave the exhaust std on the NAs, it doesn't really make them go better & they can get a bit twangy

GReddy does an adjustable gear for VCT

As above really, power seems low, mine also makes 100+ more hp at 18 on 98e10.(10cm non antisurge) Shouldn't be too laggy, anyway just 30 it with the T67

Still going here, hasn't been getting much use though

Help with injector flow but the pump will have to work a bit harder, if you run out of injector first more fuel pressure, if run out of pump first less fuel pressure

I'd keep the cold side piping the same size as the turbo outlet. The FFP seems to have varying results, I wouldn't put one on a car now but also wouldn't take one off if it's already on there. If e85 is not convenient could do the e42 mix. There's a post from Status here somewhere saying the 8cm doesn't seem to be that much more responsive but loses about 30 or 40kw up top so if doing something with the turbo I'd probably go to a BW or PT. Stock cams & TB may make it feel a bit better in the mid range. E42, more boost & maybe head studs

Just do the 25, no science needed FFS

/\ That's the key, motors seem to last longer when you've got a spare one

Look where the coil loom plugs in, if the plug is flat with the pins in a row it's a s1, if plug is more square with 2 rows of 4 pins be s2

Different plugs for coil loom as s1 has ignitor, s2 doesn't, different afm plug, on late s2 with plastic cap cas the plug is same but wiring different

MCR is the only one I know still doing chips in Auckland, if towing isn't an option you could run a stock a31/r32/c33 rb25de ecu, wire the wastegate open & drive nicely

350 ish rwkw on 98 e10, no issues as yet (Kando)

Could be something to do with the cambelt.

Have seen one flick a shim out, suspect valve float as above, head was damaged.

People usually just cut the diff off the 4wd sump & grind down the fins on the bottom where it sits over the x member so fits with the 4wd sump

Can creep/spike quickly so leans out & dets causing the knock & will do it worse with load in higher gears & uphill etc, hard to judge whether the power is low for the boost etc as don't really know the turbo specs With different turbos just think a better or bigger turbo will push a lot more volume of air at the same pressure

Does it have a bit of boost creep? Could be why it's worse loaded up hill etc, maybe the wastegate needs a bit of porting or a better actuator like a turbosmart iwg75, always best to tune on the gas you're usually going to run

What other boost control other than the boost tee?

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