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Showing results for tags 'migrate-from-146-drivetrain-and-transmission'.
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Hi guys, I've noticed lately that sometimes when I start the car up the power button light flashes 16 times. The button itself is always set in the middle, I don't bother with it. The car shifts fine and haven't had a problem with it except a couple times it wouldn't shift up until around 4-5,000 rpm when it was really cold. Anyone know what the flashing means? I'm taking it for a service and shift kit install soon but would like to know what the deal is before i do it. Cheers! -
I'm a life long lover of the R34 GTR and whilst they were attainable when i was a kid now that I'm an adult they are totally unobtanium thanks to the collector car market. from My research it seems the ENR34 shares the Atessa AWD system of the GTR, are the only drive train differences between an ENR34 and BNR34 the gear box and engine? because if so would it not then be possible to "build my own GTR" (speaking purely in regards to drivetrain) with an engine swap to an ENR34 and maybe platinum racing Atessa ETS pro system? does anyone know what the differences are between ENR34 and BNR34 rear diff's? because if the only difference is that one has an LSD and the other doesn't that's also a relatively easy thing to correct. From research on this forum it seems that the ENR34 uses the same gearbox as the r32-r33 gtr. I don't care about an interior conversion nor do I care about an exterior conversion, the bottom line is that I'm asking if I can build an ENR34 that drives like a BNR34 with the above drive train upgrades and aftermarket suspension. even if it costs 30 grand to upgrade the drive train of an ENR34 to be close to that of a BNR34 it would still be a fraction of the cost of buying an actual GTR Afterall, and I don't care if I'm not driving the genuine article I just want a car that drives as similarly as possible to the BNR34. *EDIT ( I know the obvious answer to this question is "for how much this would cost you could just buy an r32 GTR" i know that, but I dont love the r32 GTR or the R33 GTR so I would never buy one of them, I do however love the R34 enough to be willing to spend even as much as 60k on this conversion even knowing that if i chose to sell it I would be lucky to get 20 grand for it later.) -
Hi all, apologies if this has already been covered previously (i have searched but could not find a definitive answer), how do identify if i have either a series 1 or series 2 RB25DET manual transmission without knowing the donor vehicles VIN? Thanks in advance -
So I have been watching some of the video's peddling these and on paper they look like magic. I have a r34 getrag with a nismo supercoppermix and its amazing to drive, just holds the power but the box is noisy and I would like a little more room power wise. So the claim is with the new dampening design in the Uniclutch I will get "near" factory levels of gearbox noise without the dual mass flywheel. The torque ratings are very high so power seems like no issue, 800ft/lb will be near 1000hp on an rb26. So the only question I have is pedal weight, it will be going from pull to push. I have an injury that means an overly heavy pedal will not be do-able. Any one used one yet ?
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I kinda have an idea, and there is some bits and pieces on the forums about it. Looking to do the "Mines R34" diff gearing in the Getrag 6 speed. I want to retain the A-LSD in the Vspec more for the "PuRiTy" aspect of having a Vspec. Is it a matter of more or less just using the pinion and gears into the existing rear Diff housing? So: from an R33 or 32 GTR Front diff pinion/gears Rear diff pinion/gears Rear axles/ shafts as the lenghts are different? Is that basically it? -
For some reason I find myself removing the rear diff often. The top two back bolts that go into the diff to hold the attesa pump in place are just a PAIN. Has anyone mounted the attesa pump to the subframe instead of diff ? Also thinking about trying a stud on one of them to help locate. Other idea's ? or tricks ? -
So im having trouble finding rb25 gearbox mounts. All i can find is polyurethane mounts which im not interested in as my last 1 turned to jelly (it is extremely soft and i believe the cause of my trouble shifting at higher rpm), otherwise all I can find is nismo gearbox mount. I cannot find any solid options Can anyone point me in the right direction before i bother fabricating something? Just for context - it is a s13 rb25 track car with solid engine, rear subframe and diff bushes as well as every suspension bush and my issue being shifting gets sloppy in the higher rpm -
Hello, I am in the middle of installing the attesa ets pro in my r33 gtr non vspec and am confused with how the safety solenoid should be wired up. 12V switched to one side? And then ground or 2V to the other? Has anyone installed the ets pro to an attesa system with the safety solenoid? I can not find any information on how the safety solenoid should be wired up. cheers -
Hey guys and girls I have been looking into fitting a T56 6 speed manual gearbox or TR606 to my R33 GTR I have carried out allot of research I have found out RWD conversions are possible and have been done but no one has done a AWD conversion that I have been able to find. I think this could be a viable and cost effective option for people who are looking for a quiet street able gearbox which is capable of handling high HP. Now the cost for a setup like this could range from $6000 to $8000 that is a estimate at this stage the first unit would more than likely be more expensive but with more interest these costs could fall The T56 Magnum would probably be the gearbox of choice as it is the strongest syco box they do Able to withstand a massive 700 lb-ft. of torque while providing unbelievably crisp shifts, no other manual transmission on the planet offers as much combined strength, versatility, and general ease-of-use as the T-56 Magnum. Known in its original equipment form as the 'TR-6060', the Magnum is an aftermarket version of the same transmission found in many of today's most celebrated factory super cars – including the ZR1 Corvette and ACR Viper – giving you refinement where you want it and strength where it counts. Other positives about these gearboxes are gear sets PPG have dog configurations and sequential setups for the more hardcore drivers. I personally wouldn’t see the point all you would do is fit a PPG setup to the factory 5 speed. The bell housing is also allot larger this may offer GTR owners more clutch options more surface area and the possibility to run a nicer street able clutch (sprung centre) The biggest positive is retaining the 4WD and for me that the game changer. This isn't set in stone as yet, I am looking for advice and wisdom there is a huge amount of knowledge on this forum and would love to hear your thoughts and comments thanks for your time Frosty
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Hi All quick intro been kick around on and off this forum for close to 5yrs. Car in its previous iteration was as follows. Basic built 26, drop in cams, head studs etc, oil pump etc. Os88 sequential (now removed and moved on) Emtron kv8 controlled with a plethora of sensors. Now for the fun bit, I am currently working through a 8HP conversion with a kit from HPR. I'll throw some photos up of everything but I have created a IG just to make it easier to upload photos. https://instagram.com/32zila_qld?igshid=OTk0YzhjMDVlZA== -
Now it seems no question that if you are going to put in a front LSD, the quaife is the choice. What I want to know is how polite it is on the street regular driving ? Does it chatter around roundabouts ? does it create understeer on tight corners ? My car is a setup for both driving the kids around on Sunday and the odd roll racing. I had a 1 way in the rear and it was a very nice polite one but the chatter in car parks got to me and I was much happier with a shimmed stocker. I also run a nismo clutch so I have no rattles, to give you an idea of how I want this car to be. Given the expense of the quaife, then the setup, then the labour to remove and re-install engine this is not a decision I am keen to get wrong. Sadly most of the cars around me in perth with one are race setup and either broken or make too much noise to even tell whats going on in the front. I currently have no issue with traction(720rwhp) and the car isn't going to see much more power(maybe 800), so again, not sure its worth the risk if I have to pull it out. Be great to hear from anyone that has this LSD, drives on the street and can give an idea of what situations it starts to create noise or impact to the car.
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Transmission synchros feel pretty bad at this point in my car and sometimes the clutch feels like it has an inconsistent engagement point in the pedal travel. I figure if I'm going to swap in a new transmission I may as well also put in a new clutch. Obvious candidates are ATS's pull-type twin plate carbon clutch, Nismo Super Coppermix Twin, or some organic clutch option I haven't figured out yet. I have searched this stuff to death at this point and still don't feel all that confident in making a decision. Target power is not much. ~330 kW at the wheels max. I ballpark the torque spec at 600 N-m. The stock clutch feels a little light so a little heavier is ok but I would say no more than 15-20% additional pedal effort. For some reason most clutch manufacturers want to keep this stuff a secret but the Coppermix Twin is 950 kg clamp load so I figure it can't be too much heavier than stock. The hang-up I have is some people mentioning that the clutch is very grabby which sounds like a pain. The stock clutch is almost too easy to modulate so I don't mind if it requires more precision than that but I don't want to deal with something that feels like I'm getting rear-ended at every traffic light. Also I see some mention of the release bearing carrier sizing requiring some work which sounds like something that might complicate installation? It would be good to know exactly what is needed here for a 1995 R33 GTR. The ATS clutch is supposedly the best but I've seen some complaints that they wear out easily and also slip when cold. I don't know how much of that is true but the cost is also huge compared to even the Nismo Coppermix twin plate. It's also unsprung which normally I would reject immediately but supposedly carbon clutches don't need it. The higher clamp load at 1300 kg is also a little concerning but to me more clamp load seems like it inevitably means more pedal effort and also more strain on the engine crank thrust bearings. This is a street car and despite being a weekend car I seem to spend a lot of time crawling in severe traffic congestion with it anyways so I will gladly pay to have something that is easy to drive on and will hold the power with no unexpected headaches. I really don't want to do a clutch twice.
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Hi Guys I've got a brand new 25det neo gearbox and just installed the brand new shifter, put the snap ring in and with how tight the shifter and snap ring are if you wriggle the shifter it will come out. My question is are all snap rings the same or does the 25 neo gearbox have a wider snap ring or is it possible for the bush on the bottom of the shifter to be the wrong one. Shifter was brought separately. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Cheers
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Anyone upgraded the front and rear diffs in the GTS4? Im running (just installed) a os88 box with a built rb26/30 with g35-1050, I am shooting for 800whp (it's winter here and car is getting some parts installed) but still have the same short GTS4 ratios diffs front (open) and rear (LSD). I hate when under acceleration car currently has 577whp and 430tq at 22psi (on t04z) the front is all over the road. I would like to upgrade the front as I'm planning to run 50/50 with ets-pro. I don't want to blow up a front diff. Or is there something I can install in the front diff as it's open to make it LSD. Not sure exactly what I would need to order or even if I do. The car is mainly a Street car with some drag days. Thanks for the help Fyi, I search on this forum for hours and can't find anyone that upgraded a front gts-4 diff... All are gtrs -
It’s the only picture I have handy right now, sorry ! R34 GTT factory turbo auto, got converted in Japan, unsure if it’s RB25 box or Rb20? As trying to source an updated clutch. Many thanks. -
Having trouble bleeding ATTESA
blind_elk posted a topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
I finally got round to purchasing the replacement solenoid for the ATTESA pump (refer my post in Vic section from April/2022). So today I tried installing it - what a @#$% problem that is!. Gave up quickly, decided to see if simply bleeding ATTESA would help. Found a uTube video, watched, seemed simple enough. Had difficulty bleeding the rear nipple (can't swing a brake spanner up there), and had minimal fluid come out. So, to front, disconnect clip, crack nipple, pump works for a bit, then stops. Keep cracking nipple, pump not working. (when disconnected, torque gauge goes 60% - is that right?) So, anyone got a diagnosis? Is the whole ATTESA f*kced? Do I need to totally dismantle it and reassemble? BTW, pic of my reservoir: -
Hi everybody. I am currently doing an engine rebuild and decided to swap out the o rings and seals for the front diff as I’m certain they were never swapped. As I was tapping out the sleeve for the shaft the socket jumped out and I sent it home. My question is, would it be ok to file the edge of the gouge and leave it as is? I see that the diff fluid travels down the sleeve and is sealed on the other side. Has anyone ever made this mistake?
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So I finally bolted this puppy on my recent trip back home: https://www.alphaomegaracing.com/product/monstar-tailshaft/ I noticed on a long drive through traffic, I started getting some vibration on the motorway around 140+ (after traffic). I'm guessing it expands ever so slightly once heated up closing up clearances. We swapped back to the oem drive shaft and no vibration. Anyone else running similar drive shaft? Is there any way to get rid of the vibration? I'm already running whiteline subframe bushes and Nismo rear diff bushes. Def seemed to be more rev happy and responsive with the 1 piece though!
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Hey, everyone, I had an unfortunate thing happen to me while changing out cams. One of the cam cap bolts snapped in the second-to-last cap of the exhaust cam. I really don’t want to spend a whole day taking everything apart and putting it back together for the fifth time. Is it possible to just removing the one cam cap and extract the broken bolt without taking everything else apart (everything involved with loosening belt tension and removing the other cam caps)? I just want to know if it’s possible to do without breaking my cam. Would it lessen the risk if I rotate the cam to where the lobes in that area are not being pushed on by the valves springs?
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Have searched around can only find the high pressure hose replacement kit that runs to the transfer case. I found 'pinku' kit... Ugly pink stuff, does anyone know where to get any other hose replacement kits? Heard of RHD design, but seems their non existent these days.. Sourced ATTESA pressure switch, nitrogen accumulator and high pressure hose. Just need all the other hoses for the pump. Cheers folks -
Not sure if this is a dumb question, but I had the front of the car on jack stands and was checking the tie rods. I had my hands on the 3 and 9 o'clock position on the tire and wiggled left and right. There is no play on the tie rod, but i noticed there is some play in the steering rack itself. When i moved the tire left and right about a few cm, my dad said the steering wheel also moved with it. Not quite sure if i'm doing the test right or if its normal for the steering rack to have this play. -
Hey, everyone, Suddenly, after driving yesterday, my 4WD light came on. My torque gauge wasn’t moving. Nothing was out of the ordinary, except for this weird sound at the actuator attached to the transfer case when I turn the ignition on. And it only does it after a minute of turning the ignition off. So, if I were to turn the ignition on again within 10 seconds, it doesn’t make that sound. I will attach a video of it. The ETS ECU flashes code 8, but I assume it’s because my ABS was deleted a couple years ago. I checked my ATTESA reservoir and it still has fluid at the minimum line. For a little over a year, I noticed a small leak at the high pressure line that’s attached to the transfer case. It formed a drip. I tightened it about a month ago and it hasn’t dripped since. Could it be that the actuator at the transfer case needs to be bled of air? I already ordered Nissan Matic D ATF to do that. How likely is it for that actuator to go bad? Also, is it safe to run my R32 GTR without the 4WD fuse? This is car is my daily, so I still need it to go places. IMG_6681.mov
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Having a slight issue with the rear shafts in the GTR. Car 92 R32 GTR min the course of my build I had the rear shafts sent away and rebuilt, now when removing them the shop told be they had trouble getting the nut undone and one of them was destroyed, the other is rounded off, I bought a set of replacement nuts locally, but they didn’t fit and I was told I need GTR specific nuts, so I ordered genuine rear hub nuts from Kudos, these came from Japan, problem… they still don’t go on, I’m thinking maybe the thread has been damaged possibly from over tightening. I can get the new nut to start, but it’s really tight. I took the original nut that came off to a nut/bolt shop to see if they could supply a new one but they had nothing in that size/thread pitch. the original nut that came off does go back on but it also a little tight and does not wind on easily. I then went to total tools to get a thread cleaner, but they don’t stock anything in that size, I ended up buying a thread file and will have a go at using the file to clean the thread. Am I missing something? Is there a different nut I need? My next step is to go to a drive shaft shop and see if they have a nut that works/fits. Or is it Most likely the thread is stretched/damaged? By eye, the thread looks fine I’ve attached some pics, you can see on the new nut the thread has been damaged from trying to force it on. cheers -
Eyo, anyone on here that has had the problem with the rb25 transmission mount holes not lining up? My r34 gtt used to be automatic and the owner before me put in the rb20 transmission. Now i just swapped the rb20 transmission for an rb25 one and the holes on the car dont line up with the holes on the transmission mount? Is that like a normal thing where i need to buy a different mount or have one made or did i f**k something else up? -
I installed my rebuilt diff earlier today. Nismo GT 1.5 LSD and Speedtek Billet 3.3 Ring & Pinion. It whines rather bad on acceleration and is much worst above 60kmh. No noise when my foot is off the pedal. So far, I've driven it 30 minutes with a few hours cooldown in between. Will it get better as it breaks in? or are we looking at pulling the diff and bringing it back to the assembler for verification? I waited over 3 months to get my diff back, I'm not too thrilled about having to bring it back.
