Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 3 weeks later...

maaaaaaaaaaaaaaan would i like to take my skyline around like this......

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7bxX81zjvE

ON THAT NOTE - HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!!!!!! :P

edit - video is a bit long = 10 mins

Edited by emsta2003

Hey guys, i would just like to outlay a Happy new year to the whole vic club, been to many event in my non skyline, non competitive, yet .. but i wish everyone a safe and happy new year.

Stick by your resolutions for at least january :cool:

Have a good one guys... and be safe on the roads, tis the season to be careful !!!

Same here, well done guys.

Thanks to Andrew and Chris, the key players that brought Track days to us, great efford, lots of self commitments, its not easy job. Though its hard to compete our SAU VIC track days for a full season (finacially, others commitment..)but its still great fun to do it when i can (even though i've got really shit time but hey, i did it :cool: ) Looking forward to 07 season.

Those that haven't done it and would like to try, my advise is DO IT, you won't regret.

Ash, you've done a good job on policing the forum, organising cruise...specially PROMO GIRLS haha.

Paul, your work on the PFC alone is already GREAT, not to consider the work that you do on the committee side of thing.

Nark, you're hardly here anymore but you were one of our best vic committees (who dare to argue :w00t:?), looking forward to see you back here again.

James, you are the man, i still remembered you once printed out about 50pages of instruction for an SAFC and posted it to me while you were at work when i got stuck with which wire is which. Also when a bunch of us wondering around BENALIA station drunk, taking photo of our great work on the signs along the station.

Also to AL , great work man, lets organise some small runs at Calder.

Last but not least, Geoff, Mr Brisby, Troy(ylwgtr), Scotty, Peter, Adz( Mav, hand Adz a bottle of w__k sauce will ya? :rofl:, me and Mav still waiting for all this great clips that you claimed you're going to top us up, lol), Mav, well done, are you ready for 07? I've 2gig of the good stuff ready for you, better upgrade to a faster server mate :D. Saff, you too, great work that you've committed for the club. Jack, hmmm me and my car need a lift to the city man lol, i'm only kidding, thanks for all your help and all the mate's rates everytime we need a TOW. You guys are key players for this club as well, oh also the WRX guys, i dont' know any of you lol but you guys have done a great job as well.

HAPPY NEW YEAR TO YOU ALL, have a safe but MAD one.

gawd damn, im sooooooooo bloody drunk again!!!!!! HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!! bed time for me now - appreciate the fact that i got home at 4 am and am wishing u all a happy new year muthaf****rs!!! jeez - i feel like im michael richards now.....:cool:

hate to bring back an old thread :P but whose resolutions came true in 2006??

i got my 250rwkw (plus another 15kw) and also I went back to indoor soccer to test my injury, and so far so good...starting pre season outdoor soccer training in a few days..

didnt buy any property though so hopefully this year..

hope you all have a great 2007 :(

I had to read back up to see what my resolution was....

I didn't work NYE or new years day, so I guess i've done well

same...totally had forgotten about mine and this thread until saturday nite when a friend kept asking about new year resolutions of mine for the new year and the previous one...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
×
×
  • Create New...