Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks for the info mafia .. do the garrett gt3071 turb need new lines too ?? i have a stainless manifold... but i will need to get a new one for the external wastegate if i go down this path..

thats exactly right - GCG highflow is the most cheapest upgrade ($2k) and it bolts straight back on, no adjustment to oil or water lines.

2530, you'll be spending $300 on oil and water lines, and lots of time and stuffing around... I've been there and done that, pain in the ass.

If I could do it again, I'd get a high flow. But, I can't do it again..

unless the kit specifically says that the turbo will use all standard RB25 oil and water lines then yes.

ALL non RN25 turbos need new water and oil lines, except for the kits the specify that they will use the existing factor ones - which are rare as f**k.

i thought i would quickly check with yall first...

i have a 33 with ems cooler exhaust new turbo manifold etc..

and want to upgrade my turbo... i have decided on a Garrett gt3071 with .63 exhaust and with an internal wastegate....

does this all sound like a good setup ?

Cheers thanks for any feedback

I know a couple of people who have fitted these 3071r .63's to SR20DETS and they suffer from really bad boost creep. One of them is having the internal wastegate modified (enlarged) to try to alleviate the problem.

surely you have learnt something in the last 2 pages of advice and previous topics in the forced induction section.

cheap turbo's are cheap for a reason

ebay turbo's are a no no

mystery (unknown spec) old school t04 combos are lag monsters usually

what do you call a laggy turbo?

one that comes on at 3000?

one that comes on at 3500?

one that comes on at 4000?

one that comes on at 4500?

one that comes on at 5000?

hehe thanks paul i know you get what you pay for !

so a 2530 hks would be a good upgrade on mid to high boost ?? compared to the 3071 ?

surely you have learnt something in the last 2 pages of advice and previous topics in the forced induction section.

cheap turbo's are cheap for a reason

ebay turbo's are a no no

mystery (unknown spec) old school t04 combos are lag monsters usually

what do you call a laggy turbo?

one that comes on at 3000?

one that comes on at 3500?

one that comes on at 4000?

one that comes on at 4500?

one that comes on at 5000?

  • 4 weeks later...

The GT-RS kit, for what it's worth, was a pretty easy thing to install.

Turbo bolts up to the existing manifold and exhaust no probs.

New oil and water lines need to be used (come with the kit) and are also pretty easy, with the exception of the water line at the back of the engine block which is a b*tch to get to.

It's a solid day's work, but will net you 230-260rwkw on an RB25.

Worth considering for what you say your goals are. I imagine they would be pretty responsive on an RB20, as plenty of the SR20 guys use them aswell.

The GCG Hiflows (RB25) all seem to be getting similar power figures.

Edited by Beeble

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not sure the US can import anything other than the C34 Stagea's, but if you can and you need to to tow, DO NOT under any circumstances get an M35 Stagea. If it is just as a family car and your country/state allows it, absolutely and definitely get an M35 (3.5L if possible as it is effectively a 350Z) over a C34.
    • Punch your VIN (nm35-xxxxxx) into Amayama.com You can see everything there quite easily.
    • Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
×
×
  • Create New...