Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Is it worth rebuilding my own RB20DET in my R32 or would i just be better off going and getting a semi-stock RB25DET and putting in in my car.

In terms of the power output which engine is the better one to work?

Can RB20DET after market performance parts be picked up easlily in Australia?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100446-modified-rb20-vs-stock-rb25/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I keep breaking rb20's so i went to an rb25 and have not had any issues at all...

Remember for power vs dollars spent it goes like this

1. RB30det/t

2. RB26det/t

3. RB25det

4. RB20det

I mean if you have a 20 then go to the 25 if you have a 25 and want more go to the 26 and if you have a 26 and want more then go a built 30....

Know what i mean....

Its such a matter of personal preference and what you want. If i had $5,000 to spend on a mostly stock GTST i wouldnt bother with an RB25. At best you will end up with 200rwkws and probably have less average power then if you put a 2530 on your RB20.

If money really isnt a problem, or killing an RB25 not that scary a proposition then you really cant argue against going for the biiger displacement Nissan engine, as its not as though they are scary engines liek the 5.4L Ford V8 which dynamincally arent good engine.

...as for strength, give me a std RB20 over any other RB engine. If your killing RB20s then i would be so bold as to say its not the negines fault but the drivers, as they take an absolute hammering, provided you keep an eye on temps, fluids etc

I keep breaking rb20's so i went to an rb25 and have not had any issues at all...

Remember for power vs dollars spent it goes like this

1. RB30det/t

2. RB26det/t

3. RB25det

4. RB20det

I mean if you have a 20 then go to the 25 if you have a 25 and want more go to the 26 and if you have a 26 and want more then go a built 30....

Know what i mean....

i woulnt put the 26 cheaper than a 25, my 26 im building now is costing a LOT more than my RB25 did <_<

your question is wether it's worth REBUILDING an Rb20 or buying an RB25?

out of those 2 options only, I'd buy a 25.

however, I say that if you have enough money to BUY and fit and tune an RB25, you have enough money to build, fit and tune an RB30det.

which ofcourse is my pick of the RB engines.

LOL, i read that, and i took it as

"I have the choice of rebuilding my RB20 in order to aquire enough power to put my car into outer orbit...or buy a std RB25 and have to wait for my neighbours dog to take a piss on a wild daisy, then another two days for it to die so that the power of a std RB25 would allow me to remove this weed from my lawn"

So i didnt think there was anything broken about the std engione?!?!?! But i am struggling with English since Xmas NYE celebrations

rb20 rebuilt with a larger turbo should provide some significant fun, not to mention with the money saved on a rebuild rather than buying a rb25 you will KNOW the exact condition of the motor and can go from there.

when you buy a used motor you are taking a gamble, it might last it might not its hard to say.

i swapped a rb20det into my s14 as here in the us we got shafted and got a 2.4l which makes 155bhp, and even tho i blew the rb20 i have no regrets and am in the process of building it back up.

i'm with ash..rb20's are crappy.. ok up to a certain point, but after that not worth spending too much money on them.

modded rb20 good highway cruiser from 100-200km/hr.. but amongst town I'd almost prefer an rb30E :)

your considering rebuilding your RB20 because it popped? Isnt that enough to steer clear and UPGRADE to RB25?

400rwhp is easily achievable and streetable on a RB25 as opposed to a RB20, I guess it depends how far you wanna take it...

Edited by _8OO5TED_

Getting a stock Rb25 is called "headroom" ;op

Even if it is as quick as a modded RB20, you can easily mod the RB25 and get much more out of it.

I recken you could chuck RB25DET NEO in the list there... stock 206kw for a few more dollars. =-]

The only people that will tell you an RB20 is any good are the owners that are either in denial or haven't seen the light of the larger displacement RB motors. :)

I don't care if you have an RB20 with a T78, give me a stock RB25 anyday, way more fun!

The again, there is only two real RB motors,

1. RB30DET (do it with cubes)

2. RB26DETT (do it with revs)

:)

See the light of the above motors and don't look back :)

RB20 was probally good for the jap taxi's though ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Cheapest Jaycar one is only $65.
    • Probably best way would be using a proper dB / SPL meter lol Buy one and ship it from state to state to have a consistent test device lololol  
    • Not electric car good of course, it's still just a crappy old ICE
    • Yeah, but the good news is that can all be tuned out...the V37 has excellent throttle response now, and with the tiny factory turbos is pretty quick without lag
    • I did change bodyshops. The most recent place was very fast. I think the trick is to have smaller, simpler jobs. A front end repaint and some (extensive) sideskirt and fender stuff is a 'small cash' job for them. It was expensive but 'worth' it purely cause: 1) They did everything great 2) They did everything fast Get what you pay for maybe? Pictured: Very stock looking car from my very old phone. I did realise that oncoming traffic would probably be like "Oh look at this guy, commuting around in a GTR!" (until they see the side profile). This is the sad state of my fender liners and front fitment with my current stock GTR sized wheels (18x9 +30) This is how the rear sits with a 25mm spacer. I say 25mm because it's actually a 20mm spacer sitting on the studs which are ~30-31mm, and the wheels have a ~5mm cutout. So... this is very not safe to drive. This is the other side.. .with a 22mm spacer. Yes, the studs are ~27mm. Yes they're different both sides. I spent a fair amount of time measuring. This was the old pod setup behind the box in the past. Old vs New Pod she tells you not to worry about:   Turns out I measured this pod filter pretty damn accurately which I was chuffed about. I went for a ~3hr drive for 'testing' reasons up into Healseville hills. Believe it or not, the induction noise is the same between small and large pod. I guess it has more to do whether a pod is *present* or not, and the diameter of the pipe. It does sound very decent in cabin though (and extremely 'smooth') - Though behind the car the exhaust noise is nonexistent now. So uh, it's all for the driver. I'm confident it has to be quieter than @Dose Pipe Sutututu's car. I should test it. Is there a way to do it with an app or something we can both agree on? (we are both very old men now competing for quietest car) I've texted Trent at Chequered to book in to see some before/after. I can now twist the pod entirely out of the engine bay on the dyno to really rule in/out any intake restrictions. And/or remove the pipe entirely which I will probably do for testing reasons. The logs show *maybe* a difference in ambient KPA vs Intake KPA at wot. But I'm talking the difference to -3/4 before to maybe -2/3 now. The tune is not wildly out or even changed at all. The only takeaway I have is the car is on 17% ethanol as it's still got the fuel from the dyno in it. It's plausible that that tune would have resulted in the car erring on the side of being too rich (it was) and right now it seems to be bang on perfect or within -0.5% either side of target. I was tempted to take it to a Drag day to see what MPH it would trap (and tune the car) but then I wouldn't have a number and a pretty line. I may do that after I re-hit the dyno, purely to go to LS1tech and shout about how their dynos are all very inaccurate while my low HP car traps the same MPH as cars with the same setup in the US, who make 375RWKW (supposedly). It was safe to say Mr Mamo was not really happy with me posting the results yet. So I owe it to at least try the intake thing for my own sake and not besmirch people who want to buy a similar USA heads and cam setup and get disgusted that they make lower HP than simple bolt-ons which can be up to the "330rwkw+" kw region over there - Which here equates to about 270kw. (and runs the same 115-118mph)
×
×
  • Create New...