Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

R32 GTST

Had to replace radiator.

I think I have an air lock

What is the correct way to bleed the system? I think I should have replaced the thermostat aswell, cause the bottom hose doesnt get hot even after a 40 minute drive (i.e. I don't think it's flowing)

All I have done is run the car till it was warm with the rad cap off. I also tried removing the bleed screw on the top of the engine/inlet. Am I supposed to do that hot or cold? While the car is running? When do I put the bolt back in?

Any other ideas? I assume the bottom hose should get hot? How can I tell if it is passing coolant through or not?

Also, where is the drain bolt on the head that I hear people talk about? I can't find it

cheers

Chris

Edited by eXc
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102301-bleeding-air-from-coolant/
Share on other sites

have you taken the top and bottom hose off the radiator and stick the hose in the top, then turn it on, to see if it flows?

Huh? Put the bottom hose onto the top of the engine? That would put water the wrong way around?

Can you explain in more detail?

heh... bottom would stay cold if your waterpump died, right?

No flow and no airbubbles when you leave the cap off... would explain that too.

I get air bubbles from the bleed point, and at the radiator cap...well...I did for a while until it put all the air out...

I still get air bubbles at the bleed point....but I don't know the right way to use it.

Water pump is only ~6000 kms old too

Edited by eXc

oh cool.

Black32 means:

1) Take out the radiator completely.

2) Stick the garden hose down the top

3) Watch the water flow out the bottom.

Pain in the ass, but if you really suspect a blocked radiator, this will tell you for sure. (and also give you a nice radiator flush)

oh cool.

Black32 means:

1) Take out the radiator completely.

2) Stick the garden hose down the top

3) Watch the water flow out the bottom.

Pain in the ass, but if you really suspect a blocked radiator, this will tell you for sure. (and also give you a nice radiator flush)

Ok. yeah I did that.

Can anyone tell me how to bleed the system correctly please?

I mean I have been running it for a few days with no dramas so I guess it's all good. But would be nice to check it out.

  • 1 year later...

I need help also!

I have an R32 GTST - RB20DET.

I filled it up with coolant, put the radiator cap back on and started the car.

I then fully removed the bleed bolt. I left it idling for around half an hour with heater on full (32'C FAN SPEED #4). I was told to wait until bubbles stop coming out and you just get coolant but it never happened. Got close a few times, but bubbles kept coming up now and again.

I should note that it wasn't a steady stream of bubbles/coolant coming out. It was very intermittent and sometimes you'd see the bubbles/coolant start coming up but then go back down. A lot of air bubbles came out but still never got just coolant to come out.

Radiator is full and overflow is above min.

What am I doing wrong?

I think you should run the car, then stop it and allow to cool down. open the radiator cap when cool and open the bleed bolt, i just keep adding coolant as it flows out of the bleed bolt until its a solid stream of coolant then put bolt back in and top raditor and put cap back on.

do you guys think my car will be safe to drive???

not much coolant was making its way out of the bleed valve, i would've lost a few mm of depth in radiator after 30mins, thats it.

how long should it take to get all the air out because i had it idling for at least 30mins slowly getting (some of) the air bubbles out but surely it doesn't take that long?

how do i make sure all of the air is out?

I had the same thing. The last time I did it I hardly bothered with the bleed bolt. Just idle it up to operating temp with the bleed bolt almost out and the rad cap open -keep topping up. Take the car for a short drive (with cap and bolt done up). Let it cool..open up bleed screw, then rad cap and add extra.

  • 1 year later...
  • 12 years later...

@cogsDo you happen to know exactly where the bleeder screw is? Having issues getting air out of the system on my rb20 and can't find any info on it. Replaced water pump and thermostat and deleted the heater core inside the car and i can't get the system to bleed properly. Trying to hit an event this weekend. 

  • 3 years later...
53 minutes ago, silviaz said:

I read on YouTube that the neo has 2 bleeder valves? Can't see anything in the manual though

Screenshot2025-01-23at8_48_41PM.thumb.png.7e03e5208b2ad237d7e74aa68cb7c641.png

IACV has an air bleed plug in this part of the engine manual. I'm guessing if it isn't bled it will cause weird idle behavior as the cold start valve won't get hot enough to close properly at the usual rate. 

  • Thanks 1
7 minutes ago, joshuaho96 said:

I'm guessing if it isn't bled it will cause weird idle behavior as the cold start valve won't get hot enough to close properly at the usual rate.

Not that anyone in most of Oz would notice if there wasn't coolant flow.

When I bought my Neo, that whole coolant path was completely blocked with solid crap. I had to dig it out so that I could bleed the cooling system properly, but until I did, I never struggled with idle control. We're not in Idaho.

1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

Not that anyone in most of Oz would notice if there wasn't coolant flow.

When I bought my Neo, that whole coolant path was completely blocked with solid crap. I had to dig it out so that I could bleed the cooling system properly, but until I did, I never struggled with idle control. We're not in Idaho.

Kind of surprising, with cars this old I've seen a lot of them suffer from high idle due to internal vacuum leak. Fuel trims look fine but the cold start valve just wore out from all the heat cycles and won't close up all the way. Rather notorious issue in some models of the Toyota 4Runner: 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Back again. I returned to Japan in Jul/Aug to spend time with the car on my birthday and remind myself what all the sacrifice and compromise is for. It happened to line up with the monthly morning meet in Okutama, which I have been wanting to go to for a long time. It's a unique event at a unique spot with really rare, interesting, and quirky cars. It's where all the oldheads and OGs gather. The nighttime scene at DKF certainly has its place and should be experienced if you're into cars, but there's too much bad attention and negativity around it now. IMO the better time is Sunday morning at DKF or Okutama; it's more chill and relaxed. I'm glad I was finally able to go, but not sure it's worth the drive from all the way from Nagoya immediately the day before, unless I was already staying in Tokyo for the days right before the meet, because you have to wake up quite early to make it in time. Funnily enough though I didn't drive the car all that much this trip because it was just too damn hot. While there were zero issues and running temps were nominal and the A/C was strong, RBs already run crazy hot as it is. Sure, it took it all like a champ but something about driving these cars in the ridiculous heat/humidity bothers me and makes me feel like I'm asking too much of it. I'm just me being weird and treating the car like a living thing with feelings; I'm mechanically sympathetic to a fault. Instead I was mainly driving something else around - a KX4(silver) 2001 X-Trail GT, that I acquired in May. There's a few different flavors to choose from with Xs, but visually it's the Nissan version of the Honda CR-V. Mechanically it's a whole different story as this, being the top-trim GT, has an SR20VET mated to a four-speed auto and full-time AWD! It was a very affordable buy in exceptional condition inside and out, with very low mileage...only 48k kms. Most likely it was owned by an older person who kept it garaged and well-maintained, so I'm really happy with how it all worked out. It literally needs zero attention at the moment, albeit except for some minor visual touch-ups. I wanted something quirky, interesting, and practical and for sure it handily delivers on all three of those aspects. I was immediately able to utilize the cargo and passenger capacity to its full extent. It's a lot of fun to drive and is quite punchy through 1st and 2nd. It's very unassuming -in the twisty bits it's a lot more composed than one would think at a glance- and it'll be even better once I get better tires on it(yes, it's an SUV but still a little boat-y for my liking). So...now I have two golden-era Nissans in silver. One sports car and one that does everything else; the perfect two-car solution I think👍 The rest of the trip...I was able to turn my stressed brain off and enjoy it, although I didn't quite get to do as much as I thought. I did some interesting things, met some interesting people, and happened into some interesting situations however, that's all for another post though only if people really want to know. Project-wise, I went back to Mine's again to discuss more plans and am hoping to wrap that up real soon; keep watching this space if that interests you. Additionally, while working in the tormenting sweatbox that is the warehouse, I was able to organize most of the myriad of parts that my friend is storing for me along with the cars, and the 34 has a nice little spot carved out for it: And since it can get so stupid hot in there, that made it all the more easy -after I was standing there looking at the car and said 'f**k it'- to finally remove all the damn gauges that have mostly been an eyesore all this time. Huzzah. The heat basically makes the adhesive backing on the gauge mounts more pliable to work with, so it was far less stressful getting this done. I didn't fully clean it up or chase the wiring though; that will happen once I have the car in closer possession. Another major reason to remove all that stuff is to give people less reasons to get in my car and steal s**t while it's being exported/imported when/if the time comes, which leads us to my next point... ...and that is even though it's time in Japan is technically almost up since it's a November car and the X would be coming in March, I'm still not entirely sure where my life and career is headed; I don't really know what the future looks like and where I'm going to end up. I feel there's a great deal of uncertainty with me and as a result of that, it feels like I'm at a crossroads moreso now than any point in my life thus far and there are some choices I need to make. Yes, I've had some years to consider things and prepare myself, however too much has happened in that time to maintain confidence and everything feels so up in the air; tenuous one might say. Simply put, there's just too much nonsense going on right now from multiple vectors. Admittedly, I'm struggling to stay in the game and keep my eyes on the prize. So much so in fact, that very recently I came the closest I ever have before to calling it quits outright; selling everything and moving on and not looking back. The astute among you will pick up on key subtext within this paragraph. In the meantime I've still managed to slowly acquire some final bits for the car, but it feels nice knowing there's not much left to get and I'm almost across that finish line; I have almost everything I'll ever want for my interpretation and expression on what it is I think an R34 should be. 'til later.
    • Thanks for that, hadn’t used my brain enough to think about that. 
    • Also playing with fire if they start to flow more air down low than what the stock twins can. It's not even up top you need to worry, it can be at 3000rpm and part throttle and it's getting way more flow than it should.
    • Any G40/1000 or G40/1250 results out there?  
    • You still want a proper tune on the stock ECU though. Stock tune + stock ECU with GT-SS/-9s is probably playing with fire if you're running more than stock airflow/power.
×
×
  • Create New...