Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guy is there any way that we can get some rwd stagea things going like tutorials and diy

What are you trying to do that you can't figure out?

Or do you just want people to spend heaps of time making tutorials on stuff that isn't required just on the off chance it might help you in the future?

  • 3 weeks later...

anybody know what the little steering wheel switch is for on a c34 s2 tiptronic auto?

Yeah it enables the gears to be changed via the steering wheel controls when the shifter is pushed to the left.

Edited by stock stagea
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 9 months later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 7 months later...

How to repair seat switches in the M35 Stagea.

You MUST find someone with a proper, professional quality desoldering iron. The switches are pure copper and will suck up heat easily. Seat_1.JPG

Steps:

 

·        1)  Remove seat.

·        2)  Remove switch PCB from seat.

·         3) Remove switches from PCB.

·        4)  CAREFULLY lever switches apart (I used a Stanley™ knife blade), taking care not allow springs to end up 10 Metres away, by removing the switch cover.

·         5 Burnish and clean the switch contacts.

·         6) Condition switch contacts with De-Oxit™ or equivalent.

·         7) Allow to sit for a few minutes.

·         8) Clean off excess De-Oxit™.

·         9) Place a minute segment of Blu-Tack™ on the end of the two springs and re-insert.

·        

 

·         Here is where you need 4 hands:

·         10) Place a loop of strong cotton (I don’t like using mon-filaments, but use whatever you like – it must be fine enough to allow the switch cover to be re-installed whilst the cotton is in place) around one end of the switch body.  

·         11) Replace the two switch levers and ball bearings.

·         12) Install both switch actuators.

·         13) Ask you second pair of hands to place a second loop of cotton around the other end of the switch.

·         14) Both switch actuators should be reasonably secure at this point.

·         15) Replace the switch cover.

·         16) Cut the cotton.

·         1 - 16) Repeat as necessary for other switches.

·         17) Re-install on seat.

·         18) Re-install seat.

 

Happy days.

Seat_6.JPG

Seat_7.JPG

Seat_8.JPG

Seat_9.JPG

Seat_10.JPG

Seat_11.JPG

Seat_2.JPG

Seat_3.JPG

Seat_4.JPG

Seat_5.JPG

  • Like 4
  • 3 years later...

Just an outside chance it could be for 2wd operation if you have a 4wd but don't try it til you have read this:

hmm the below is for a C34 - don't know if it applies to your car....

Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, white plug).
Disconnect it.
Start car. As key comes back to the ON position, within 10 seconds, depress brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light will start flashing to indicate you are in 2WD mode.
To go back to 4WD mode, turn car off, reconnect plug and off you go.
I have hooked mine to a switch in the centre console.
On 05/07/2020 at 12:34 PM, LieutenantJiggles said:

anyone know what this "off" button is for? To the left of the hood release, under wheel. (2004 2.5L Turbo four)

20200704_202611.jpg

20200704_202625_HDR.jpg

That turns off the optional factory remote start system. Dealer fitted accessory, mine was mounted at the top of the driver's kick panel. Comes with about a mile of addition wiring under the dash too for maximum clutter

5 hours ago, Duncan said:

That turns off the optional factory remote start system. Dealer fitted accessory, mine was mounted at the top of the driver's kick panel. Comes with about a mile of addition wiring under the dash too for maximum clutter

So it is important if I have an aftermarket starter, was thinking of putting my kill switch there. Also, do you know if a Stagea's aftermarket steering wheel is the same mounts/adapters as a 350Z? Lots of parts are shared but I want to make sure before I sink $300+ into a wheel and quick release.

Well, there is a blank right above it in your car that looks suitable for mounting something. Or, if you always want to use the remote starter disconnect the factory button and either leave it unplugged (if remote works) or bridge the 2 terminals (if it doesn't work), then put spade terminals into the back of the factory switch for your kill switch.

Personally I have absolutely no idea re the steering wheel, mine is a C34 which is all rb compatible where your M35 is renault era

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
    • Thanks MBS206, i got that PDF but got abit overhelm with all the connections and tracing of wires. I wasn't expecting to plug the dash harness anywhere. i was just going to use my electronics jumper wires to plug into the right pins like ECU power, ecu ground, ignition trigger etc... I do have a few ratchet straps locking it down tight. Fire extinguisher ready and only a small amount of fuel at a time, enough to submerge the pump.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, i will do abit more digging. I am missing a blue relay near the ECU connector... so i will chase that up in the next few days as well  
    • https://yariksteel.ru/manual/R33/Skyline_R33_elektroprovodka.pdf   Page 18 should be what you want for the Dash Cluster wiring. Though, you don't need the dash plugged in to get the motor running. What you want is power as how GTSBoy said. You need to power the ECU. Find in the above link the ECU pin outs (Verify them before just connecting them up from things written on the internet). Find anything needing power, give it power, find anything needing ground, give it ground. Then give the starter motor power through a big cable, and bridge the solenoid on the starter straight to power too.  ECU will be on, and when you give the starter power, it'll spin the starter motor, and it should start. I also hope you have a proper stand, and not just the engine sitting on some wood. You will want it bolted down properly.
×
×
  • Create New...