Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guy is there any way that we can get some rwd stagea things going like tutorials and diy

What are you trying to do that you can't figure out?

Or do you just want people to spend heaps of time making tutorials on stuff that isn't required just on the off chance it might help you in the future?

  • 3 weeks later...

anybody know what the little steering wheel switch is for on a c34 s2 tiptronic auto?

Yeah it enables the gears to be changed via the steering wheel controls when the shifter is pushed to the left.

Edited by stock stagea
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 9 months later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 7 months later...

How to repair seat switches in the M35 Stagea.

You MUST find someone with a proper, professional quality desoldering iron. The switches are pure copper and will suck up heat easily. Seat_1.JPG

Steps:

 

·        1)  Remove seat.

·        2)  Remove switch PCB from seat.

·         3) Remove switches from PCB.

·        4)  CAREFULLY lever switches apart (I used a Stanley™ knife blade), taking care not allow springs to end up 10 Metres away, by removing the switch cover.

·         5 Burnish and clean the switch contacts.

·         6) Condition switch contacts with De-Oxit™ or equivalent.

·         7) Allow to sit for a few minutes.

·         8) Clean off excess De-Oxit™.

·         9) Place a minute segment of Blu-Tack™ on the end of the two springs and re-insert.

·        

 

·         Here is where you need 4 hands:

·         10) Place a loop of strong cotton (I don’t like using mon-filaments, but use whatever you like – it must be fine enough to allow the switch cover to be re-installed whilst the cotton is in place) around one end of the switch body.  

·         11) Replace the two switch levers and ball bearings.

·         12) Install both switch actuators.

·         13) Ask you second pair of hands to place a second loop of cotton around the other end of the switch.

·         14) Both switch actuators should be reasonably secure at this point.

·         15) Replace the switch cover.

·         16) Cut the cotton.

·         1 - 16) Repeat as necessary for other switches.

·         17) Re-install on seat.

·         18) Re-install seat.

 

Happy days.

Seat_6.JPG

Seat_7.JPG

Seat_8.JPG

Seat_9.JPG

Seat_10.JPG

Seat_11.JPG

Seat_2.JPG

Seat_3.JPG

Seat_4.JPG

Seat_5.JPG

  • Like 4
  • 3 years later...

Just an outside chance it could be for 2wd operation if you have a 4wd but don't try it til you have read this:

hmm the below is for a C34 - don't know if it applies to your car....

Locate the "air bleed" wire behind the drivers kick panel, it's a plug with a single wire either side (usually green socket, white plug).
Disconnect it.
Start car. As key comes back to the ON position, within 10 seconds, depress brake pedal 5 times, 4WD light will start flashing to indicate you are in 2WD mode.
To go back to 4WD mode, turn car off, reconnect plug and off you go.
I have hooked mine to a switch in the centre console.
On 05/07/2020 at 12:34 PM, LieutenantJiggles said:

anyone know what this "off" button is for? To the left of the hood release, under wheel. (2004 2.5L Turbo four)

20200704_202611.jpg

20200704_202625_HDR.jpg

That turns off the optional factory remote start system. Dealer fitted accessory, mine was mounted at the top of the driver's kick panel. Comes with about a mile of addition wiring under the dash too for maximum clutter

5 hours ago, Duncan said:

That turns off the optional factory remote start system. Dealer fitted accessory, mine was mounted at the top of the driver's kick panel. Comes with about a mile of addition wiring under the dash too for maximum clutter

So it is important if I have an aftermarket starter, was thinking of putting my kill switch there. Also, do you know if a Stagea's aftermarket steering wheel is the same mounts/adapters as a 350Z? Lots of parts are shared but I want to make sure before I sink $300+ into a wheel and quick release.

Well, there is a blank right above it in your car that looks suitable for mounting something. Or, if you always want to use the remote starter disconnect the factory button and either leave it unplugged (if remote works) or bridge the 2 terminals (if it doesn't work), then put spade terminals into the back of the factory switch for your kill switch.

Personally I have absolutely no idea re the steering wheel, mine is a C34 which is all rb compatible where your M35 is renault era

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
×
×
  • Create New...