Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well..... I specifically asked for a clutch that could handle 600HP with odd track days & drag-strip work (+ a specific reference to DirtGarage's clutch) .....unfortunately in my case, it was obviously not a 600HP rated unit.

You ran a clutch rated to 600hp... with 600hp (or a tad more)...

In all honesty, what did you expect?

Its like getting a tyre rated to 300km/h, and doing 300km/h just to see if it will blow out.

A smart man would get a 330km/h tyre or a 700hp clutch IMO to give you headroom rather than tempt the devil ;)

You ran a clutch rated to 600hp... with 600hp (or a tad more)...

In all honesty, what did you expect?

Its like getting a tyre rated to 300km/h, and doing 300km/h just to see if it will blow out.

A smart man would get a 330km/h tyre or a 700hp clutch IMO to give you headroom rather than tempt the devil :)

I went solely on Jim's advice, he reckoned the twin plates were a waste of $$ as his super-single plate would be more than ample...........so "in all honesty" I expected the clutch to work, but given you're all seeing and all knowing you obviously knew what I discussed with Jim ;) PS my mph at the strip when the clutches actually failed indicated the engine was well under 600HP (120-122mph).

  • 3 weeks later...

I hear a few people commenting on them being very hard on take up, does everybody experience this or is it just Jim's "full monty" that drives like this

I have the decision on what to use in the 200SX, the box blew, so was thinking of using one of Jim's clutches..... i have just been a bit concerned on the clamping force, 4000lbs in this case, and the effects this may have on thrust on the RB's crank.... its a hell of a lot of clamp

Can anyone comment on how nice the pedal is on one of Jim's clutches that has above 3500lbs clamp??? i would have thought you would need legs like Arnold to use it

  • 3 weeks later...

I think mine has 4400 pounds from memory. I remember Jim saying it was the most he ever got out of a standard GTR clutch. I wouldn't say you need legs like Arnie but the friction point is very small.

Remind me some time Brad and you can test it out.

I'm only aiming for around 220kw. Should I get the Jim Berry "mini-monty" or will the Exedy HD Organic clutch be sufficient? If I get a clutch from Jim will I have to purchase throw out bearing etc separately?

How about this as an alternative?

Exedy "Sports Single" Sports Organic - NSK-7056SO (RB25DET): $573.65

Edited by Simmo1985

Spoke with Jim Berry today. He's making me up a clutch, it's a level below the "mini-monty". It's got the "full monty" pressure plate with an organic face or something. It was all a bit double dutch to me but I'm sure I'll be satisfied with choosing Jim Berry over Exedy. Just need to book it in to get fitted somewhere now.

hmmm,

my JB 'full monty' slipped on the weekend when I did a cupple of 6k+ launches in my R32 GTR

its a carbonic clutch plate with 4000lb pressure plate and has done 3000k's

first launch it fully slipped and did not properly hook up,

second run it slipped and eventually hooked up. After the launch I went to drive off normally and the clutch wouldn't engage and just slipped and shuddered.

I got the car moving and it seemed to right itself (drives fine now, but I havnt attempted another launch)

I'm a little dissapointed as my 'stock' GTR makes only 230AWK and when I did the launches I was not running my usual 1bar, I was only using .7bar.

It also makes a bit of a clicking sound when depressing the clutch.

The unit was installed by my tuner following Jim's strict instalation instructions.

fitted the unit set me back close to $2k and I am not a happy camper :(

Edited by Betz
It also makes a bit of a clicking sound when depressing the clutch.

My new JB clutch is in. Working well so far, it's just a Heavy Duty organic style. Not full monty. It seems to make a bit of a clicking sound when releasing the clutch, but the stock one did that too, so hopefully it's normal.

Sucks to hear about your clutch slipping. Nothing worse than wasting ridiculous amounts of $$$ on something that doesn't do what you want it to!

On a side note, when I went to pick up my clutch I paid by EFTPOS, it wasn't til I got back to work that I checked my bank account and noticed no money had left the account.. checked the receipt, my card was denied for some reason. If I was a scumbag I coulda got a free clutch haha, rang Jim up and direct deposited the cash straight away though.

hmmm,

my JB 'full monty' slipped on the weekend when I did a cupple of 6k+ launches in my R32 GTR

its a carbonic clutch plate with 4000lb pressure plate and has done 3000k's

first launch it fully slipped and did not properly hook up,

second run it slipped and eventually hooked up. After the launch I went to drive off normally and the clutch wouldn't engage and just slipped and shuddered.

I got the car moving and it seemed to right itself (drives fine now, but I havnt attempted another launch)

I'm a little dissapointed as my 'stock' GTR makes only 230AWK and when I did the launches I was not running my usual 1bar, I was only using .7bar.

It also makes a bit of a clicking sound when depressing the clutch.

The unit was installed by my tuner following Jim's strict instalation instructions.

fitted the unit set me back close to $2k and I am not a happy camper :(

how do u drive the car day to day? as in do u slip the clutch?

I 'slip' the clutch as little as practical to get the car moving smoothly.

the take up has always been very fast,

I usually give 1500rpm and come off the clutch quickly and can feel the clutch hook up smoothly.

changing gear I can get smooth changes without needing to induce slip and its only when driven hard that gear changes are a bit violent.

my pedal hieght is a little higher than I would like, but it has always been like that even when the clutch was first installed.

the clicking sound when depressing the clutch is like the diaphram has a cupple of broken fingers.

the clutch also squeals when its cold and is engaging, this goes away after a few k's of driving and indicates to me the clutch has been run in and the high points knocked off.

if its dead then its pretty piss poor value 3000k's for a $1500 clutch :(

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Need to do the clutch in my R33 gtr soon.

Anyone had any experience with this Xtreme clutch?

It's 1260kg clamp load (approx 50% over standard), and a dampened hub with cushioned ceramic facings.

DNI2524203DCB.JPG

At the moment I might be making around 230kw atw, but need it to handle 330kw atw.

Ballpark price i've seen at the moment is around $1100 for the kit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That could very well be the thermistor, but the ECU only sees Volts. VDO don't seem to provide a 0-5 volt curve, only the resistance curve.... (or line).
    • Yes. Probably, given that there is only access from the bottom end of it, go with a drill bit. Don't start too small. 7 or 8mm is probably the right size. You want something that can make a big enough hole to do some damage, but not so bit that it clashes with the steel or binds up and breaks your wrist. A slow speed is probably a good idea too. Once the rubber is destroyed, you then have to get the crush tube off the stud, which will be the whole heat/oil/cutting exercise all over again, but this time with the need to strictly avoid damaging the stud (any further than the corrosion might already have done.
    • We replaced the connector just because we could and it was still there, once we swapped the injectors around it stopped. The injectors were something I had thoughts of replacing even before I first started the engine and in hindsight I should have 
    • Not too sure just yet, want to have a go at doing what I can myself, but to start with want someone to cast their eye over it tell me what needs doing to get it running and back on the road, so anyone with great overall knowledge would be ideal.
    • I personally would go with cutting out the rubber. Then deal with getting sleeve off separately. Rubber can be painful to cut, it loves to jam up cutting tools. I normally have success with drill bits, deburr bits, angle grinders, jigsaw, reciprocating saw, and never forget... fire. Obviously different tools won't work in all locations you're trying to work with, and you need to be comfortable with each. You personally may be happy slowly slicing it out with a razor blade, if you are, go for it with one too! Feel free to wait for others to weigh in also on their thoughts.
×
×
  • Create New...