Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I understand that the full monty / super monty is a great clutch, but what is like to live with on the street? My wife will be driving this car as well, dont want something that will be too heavy or something that shudders a lot and reduces the drivability of the car too much.

I know it is always a trade off between comfort and strength but I'm just trying to get some real world opinions.

Cheers :)

i can comment here...i had the full monty with a solid centre which should make it not as pleasant to drive & it honestly drives like a normal clutch...put it this way, my wife drove it with no problem at all & she was amazed (she can also drive my triple plate clutch but absolutely hates it), this is also the reason why im getting another jim berry clutch for my current gtr (so that my wife can drive the car)

there is no trade off here between comfort & strength, comfort is 10/10 & strength is 10/10 if it can hold 1050rwhp :)

Hmmm thanks, thats a good endorsement. I will order a super monty :)

i can comment here...i had the full monty with a solid centre which should make it not as pleasant to drive & it honestly drives like a normal clutch...put it this way, my wife drove it with no problem at all & she was amazed (she can also drive my triple plate clutch but absolutely hates it), this is also the reason why im getting another jim berry clutch for my current gtr (so that my wife can drive the car)

there is no trade off here between comfort & strength, comfort is 10/10 & strength is 10/10 if it can hold 1050rwhp :)

Hmmm thanks, thats a good endorsement. I will order a super monty :)

How much is the super monty costing you? I got a carbotic clutch and honestly even now and its only 100km old, there isn't much shudder. Its more noticeable in reverse but it will wear in. It cost 380 and its rated to about 550nm torque. People don't understand, a clutch does not slip from power it slips from torque.

Edited by SargeRX8

I just got off the phone with jim & ive ordered my second jim berry clutch as i sold my previous engine setup – there is nothing better out there & im running over 400awkw!

He has recently released the improved “Super Monty” which is the predecessor for his “Full Monty”.

Here are the amendments which makes it stronger & improves driving even further:

1. Runs an exedy pressure plate which has better materials & “the best in the market” in his words

2. Runs larger truck buttons rather than previously used car buttons

3. Surface diameter increase from 240mm to 250mm

4. 6 puck clutch plate rather than 5 puck, with sprung centre

Jim is going to get cracking on my clutch today & will be ready next week, clamp pressure will be over 4000lbs as per my brief & could be as high as over 4500lbs.

I’ll report back next week once its installed...

As a reminder, 1 of his claim to fames is Mattouk’s drag vl turbo with rb30 which makes 1050rwhp & runs the “Full Monty” clutch – he actually split his block which almost makes the jim berry clutch indestructible!

i stand corrected, typo...

The “Full Monty” is the predecessor for his NEW, LATEST & GREATEST “Suuuuuper Montyyyyyy”

I just had a call from jim - clutch is ready for shipping which is super quick service & have booked to have the clutch fitted next thurs :):):)

My wife can drive and is the only female that is allowed to touch it, I have many stories haha...she raced a built xy gt with my gtr yrs ago and absolutely slaughtered it, she came in 3rd place in a gokart race and this is amongst my 20+ mates who all are pretty much into cars etc

I understand your concern though as neither of my ex girlfriends would even sit in the drivers seat

  • 3 weeks later...

Why doesn't anyone ever post the cost of the clutch?

How much is this super monty and how much is the full monty?

your best to ring Jim Berry as each car is different and each clutch is different ring him up tell him what your doing and he should help you with what clutch/pricing etc.

I just bought a jun forged flywheel for my R34 GTR $530 del from access autos and a NPC ceramic button to suit around 350kwatw (thinking ahead) cost me 950. Awesome clutch, nice to drive and the Jun lightened flywheel makes the car just rev up so much quicker. Also put in ARP flywheel bolts aswell (around $100).

Edited by sinistaGTR

Why doesn't anyone ever post the cost of the clutch?

How much is this super monty and how much is the full monty?

the super monty is about $1700.

in terms of how it drives, ive had an os giken triple plate & an exedy twin plate in the past...put it this way, anybody who knows how to drive a manual can drive my car without any issues at all (almost identical to a factory clutch), with multi plates you need to gain a nack & skill to learn how to drive it which isn't actually bad at all as i used this as an excuse when a friend or wife asked to drive my car haha

  • 1 month later...

Rolls,

When attaching anything to another object, "Sound Engineering Practice" requires that you have the following:

1) One method of locating (dowels/flange etc.)

2) One method for fastening (screw, nut/bolt etc)

If it were me, I would not install the clutch/flywheel ASM without using this dowel as the fasteners will then be loaded in a way they were not originally designed for. Hence they MAY not be sized appropriately to the task and MAY fail

Cheers,

David

Edited by R32Abuser

Hey if you put the flywheel in minus the dowel, but line it up where the dowel is meant to be will there be any issue? Is it just for locating the flywheel?

Dowels are there for a reason, if it was a matter of just line it up with bolt holes, then that would be all there was to do.

They are for alignment and balance, but most importantly to prevent clucth assembly sheering bolts, turning/moving at all on fly wheel.

Bolts are doing a job, they are there for clamp pressure and not shear resistance.

Dowels on head and bell housing are for proper alignment, different job. :cheers:

Half the flywheels DON"T have the dowel though, this is why I thought it was no issue, rb30e and quite a few aftermarket ones are missing the dowel hole.

The single dowel pin is about 1/4 the diameter of the flywheel bolts, I really doubt the added shear capactiy would do anything, if it was going to shear without it they would use different bolts. I am just not sure what the reason other than locating it is there for.

Surely they would have two opposing larger dowels if shearing was the issue? I am fairly sure the bolts are hardened steel of some sort, probably similar to the dowel, wouldn't the shear properties of the bolts even if a weaker grade still be far in excess of the dowel?

It looked like the dowel only located the flywheel itself, it didn't stick through and touch the clutch? If it went through the clutch then I see your point.

Edited by Rolls

After reading 13 pages, :wacko:

1989 R32 GTR, 310kw atw, with reserve for say >400atw.

Street car, the odd fang at the lights and powerslide,nothing serious.

Just enjoying my car.

WANT reliabilty, good feel and not to heavy?.

Lets have some thoughts!

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey I was just wonderig if this clutch would be okay for me it's for street driving and the car is basically stock

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com.au/viewitem?itemId=220644569681&index=2&nav=SEARCH&nid=11753214064

any info would be good :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.
    • No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.
    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
×
×
  • Create New...