Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 117
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I am Currently using a KKR 430 turbo that Otomoto have kindly sponsored for my drift car, i took it out for its first test and tune session at the track on tuesday and i am very very happy with the performance and responce of the turbo.

I cam currently making 190 rwkw's with stock ecu, injectors and AFM, the timing has been changed.

i also have a GTR fuel pump, GTR cooler adn thats abouit it.

Whilist this turbo is not a direct bolt up... to make it fit i did the following.

Fitting of the turbo was not that difficult. otomoto can supply a dump pipe to suit that will bolt straight up to your front pipe this is what i got with the turbo and indeed it does bolt up, however i needed a 2.75 inch V band clamp (they are not a bolt type flange but rather a V band) and these are hard to find, so you'd need to go to your local turbo shop and order one in since most places i went yto only had 2.5 or 3 inch.

Grinding was required on the stock manifold and the com housing to make them clear each other, not much needs to be taken away from the comp housing, just a light linish. however theres a protrusion on the stock manifold which has a thread in it for the heat sheld bolt. i ground this away completly and turbo fits no worries then.

you fit the stock RB20 turbo oil return pipe, so no fab needed there, the oil feed line requires some bending but the banjo meets up easy enough. However you need a Metric Course thread Banjo bolt (nissan stock one is Metric Fine thread) this is a $4 part.

Water lines not needed, i just looped the stock ones around each other.

That leaves cooler pipe and intake pipe, the stock intake rubber pipe is a tad smaller then the intake on the compressor housing. You can make it fit by using hot water and forcing it on, but i took the opportunity to get a metal pipe made anyway, this pipe + one simple 90 degree elbow that had a flare on one end to meet up with the compressor outlet was all i needed.

Marky from Exhaust tech made me the pipes i needed for next to nothing, big ups goes to him!

So yeah, fairly simple, its no direct bolt on, but its damn near close enough! And yeah i dunno about turbo life yet bout mine will be pushed to the limits, rest assured, so we'll see how it goes from that! All in all, for the money they are absolutly worth it!

and the videos.....

the 480 is the same turbo as the 430 but with a larger split entry turbine housing.

This suggest that it would be laggier yet have more potential to make bigger hp

I chose the smaller of the two since ive got a competition drift car and responce is more important then bulk hp.

If you want more pics or specs. Contact

Ben Ellis

OTOMOTO Pty Ltd

45 Mary Pde Rydalmere NSW 2116

Ph. (02) 9898 1655

Fx. (02) 9898 1254

www.otomoto.com.au

i wanna see a dyno chart with AFR's and a separate with boost plot aswell if you dont mind :)

as you can see by the link i posted before...

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=44524.0

The 1.1 is stupidly laggy... if you take off approx 50rwkw from the graph in all areas (as i stated the result is fudged) then its damn laggy with a peak power of only around 250rwkw... it takes forever to get there.

With a smaller housing... it would need to be back into the .63 i would imagine to give anything close to "stock" turbo performance

Fitting cost me well under 25 bucks in parts :)

and how much time :P

1hour? $70 labour

2 hours? $140 labour

dont forget to include stuff like that as lots of people cant DIY and have to pay workshop rates.

Plus you took your own time to do it aswell :)

im keen to see how it goes in the long run.I got this off the Otomoto website

Around August 2005, Otomoto launched its own performance brand, KKR. This line of turbos and turbo-related performance products began with the KKR 330, 430 and 480 turbos, which offered a level of build quality not seen at this price point before. Sourced from China, Otomoto has hand-picked products from manufacturers specialising in OEM-standard manufacturing, to ensure a high standard of reliability which is backed by an unconditional warranty.

i'd like to see the conditions.

Garrett offer a warranty also, but its highly conditional, and almost impossible to get them to honour it because of that.

I would suspect anywhere else the same would happen.

Its performance, there is no warranty on it

i'd like to see the conditions.

Garrett offer a warranty also, but its highly conditional, and almost impossible to get them to honour it because of that.

I would suspect anywhere else the same would happen.

Its performance, there is no warranty on it

thats dead right, soon as u mention its not a standard application, running more than stock boost they say bad luck.

my mate just bought a brand new gt3540r and thats what the shop told him when he asked about warranty.

cheers

Brad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSP male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSP reducing bush?
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...