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Is there a reason why the rear head drain setups always seem to go to the turbo side of the sump? I'm just about to weld on my -10 fitting for the head return and the intake side seems more logical due to less heat and the fact that the sump baffle isn't in the way of the high position on the sump.

Is there a reason why the rear head drain setups always seem to go to the turbo side of the sump? I'm just about to weld on my -10 fitting for the head return and the intake side seems more logical due to less heat and the fact that the sump baffle isn't in the way of the high position on the sump.

Save yourself the trouble and forget about the "rear head drain". There is no evidence that it does any good at all. A couple of fittings in the sump are a good move though. Read the thread and all will be revealed.

I have read the thread/s mate. I believe the rear drain is a must for my setup and there is more evidence to suggest it is better than not having one.

You read the thread and still think it's a drain?

Actually it is a little bit relevant to the question.

Initially when this mod was done years back - it was definitely thought of as a drain foremost, and a breather second.

The reason it was taken to the turbo side of the sump was because it was thought the rotation of the crank causes a slight vacuum on that side, helping to draw oil down the drain.

It was later argued that under heavy acceleration (when you need it most) that the oil would never flow 'forwards' from the back of the head to the front of the sump.. and then later people considered it worked moreso as a breather.

I used to run the back of the head drain and have since removed it.

Instead I have vented the Intake side of the sump, up to a catch can. This still 'breathes' but not back to the head, and then from the head to the catch can... just straight to the catch can.

Does that answer your question?

Actually it is a little bit relevant to the question.

Initially when this mod was done years back - it was definitely thought of as a drain foremost, and a breather second.

The reason it was taken to the turbo side of the sump was because it was thought the rotation of the crank causes a slight vacuum on that side, helping to draw oil down the drain.

It was later argued that under heavy acceleration (when you need it most) that the oil would never flow 'forwards' from the back of the head to the front of the sump.. and then later people considered it worked moreso as a breather.

I used to run the back of the head drain and have since removed it.

Instead I have vented the Intake side of the sump, up to a catch can. This still 'breathes' but not back to the head, and then from the head to the catch can... just straight to the catch can.

Does that answer your question?

Don't talk sense and logic!

PS. 32 coming to Powercruise? I missed out on forklift torque ride last year :(

Anyone with RB's have issues under hard braking on the track?

Oil is overfull, larger sump, catch can all sorted and working well etc etc but under really hard brakes i am bringing the oil sender warning on? A few have said they suffered similar.

Options to bandaid it were an Accusump type setup possible?

Also, oil pressure drops at idle after a long session on the track. Recovers as soon as revs are applied and runs pretty much where it should throughout the rev range.

Anyone with RB's have issues under hard braking on the track?

Oil is overfull, larger sump, catch can all sorted and working well etc etc but under really hard brakes i am bringing the oil sender warning on? A few have said they suffered similar.

Options to bandaid it were an Accusump type setup possible?

Also, oil pressure drops at idle after a long session on the track. Recovers as soon as revs are applied and runs pretty much where it should throughout the rev range.

When I didn't have my oil issues sorted and I was getting too much oil in the catch can I was getting a small issue under brakes (luckily not much load so didn't cause any issues... yet *touches wood*) but since I've got it all worked out I've got no issues at all.

Oil pressure drops at the oil temp increases and gets thinner so after thrashing on the track it's not uncommon to get less oil pressure at idle.

  • Like 1

Should I have said 'breather'?

Get over it, I had the choice to type either word and the term is irrelevant to my question.

I have read the thread/s mate. I believe the rear drain is a must for my setup and there is more evidence to suggest it is better than not having one.

What evidence? If you know it all already then why come in here asking.. U called it a oil drain cause that's what you thought it was.. Don't get all tied up around the axles if you learnt something.

I myself use to think it was a oil drain, until one day I pulled the hose off and there was bearly a drop of oil in the pipe. Then I did some research and discovered it acted more as a crankcase ventilation. So don't waste your time with these fitting.. Just hook your cam cover breathers to a catch can and run another fitting from your catch can to your sump higher then your oil level.

Worked fine for me

  • Like 2

Ive got the Same problem with My 34.

Under Hard braking aswell. Pressure drops to about 20 psi with the rpm still around 4.5k

Only has a stock sump , but most of the aftermarket sumps only really allow for oil surge during cornering

What Brand of sump are you using

Ive got the Same problem with My 34.

Under Hard braking aswell. Pressure drops to about 20 psi with the rpm still around 4.5k

Only has a stock sump , but most of the aftermarket sumps only really allow for oil surge during cornering

What Brand of sump are you using

So what's the problem? 20 psi with no load? Presumably pressure climbs as you accelerate out of the corner...

Bump

1.1 or 1.2mm restrictor for an rb26 with some track/ drag/ street use?

Seriously? There is so little difference.

Disclaimer: I sell 1.0, 1.2 and 1.5 so no 1.1

Seriously? There is so little difference.

Disclaimer: I sell 1.0, 1.2 and 1.5 so no 1.1

Cheers for the lesson. Didn't realise that 1.1mm and 1.2mm where very close in size..

The reason I asked is cause the chart listed early stated 1.25mm for street, 1mm for drag/circut.

I plan on doing all 3 of the above tasks and thought a 1.1mm was a good inbetween spot but wasn't sure if a 1.1mm restrictor would cause any issue's on the street.

I have a 1.1mm and a 1.2mm sitting in front of me.

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