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Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

Sydneykid

By Sydneykid,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted

Enough to hit a tire and crash mate.?? For me I ant want no bit of oil in the catch can. I have went as far as putting those camshaft covers (oil splash) on all the cam caps. And beat the shit out the car. I was running a .9mm restrictor with n1 oil pump at 9k stock head. It was suicide I know. I dont care im out to find out for my self. Im reading some articles now on old nismo r32 track cars looking for clues.

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iruvyouskyrine
iruvyouskyrine

Whoops, yes i did mean catch can, corrected it now. Yes i understand that now. The two goals are to reduce the amount of oil entering the head, and equalize crankcase pressure. The oiling issue is s

fatz
fatz

less thinking more doing shit that works in the getto Dash ten on pasengers side Two dash 12 on the drivers side, angles and spaced so as not to hit shit and be able to tighten the f**ker up note

SimonR32
SimonR32

I ran my set up right up to 8800rpm at 2 bar (740rwhp) around the track with sticky R-comps the other night and not a drop out of the catch can. This is with no oil restrictors to the head and a stoc

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MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted

Kml. Im just frustrated about it mate. Its seems like what im find out is some good info. Rbs sucks a## at returning the oil as the returns are only on one side of the head. 2zj has it if I remember right on both sides. From what I see it seems like ya just have to work out a very good system of letting it breath. Seems like its a big brething issue mate. Ill keep search on solution. I cant seem to find good photos of there setups from nismo. Like the way they plum the lines and catch cans.

MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted

Found the solution:D:D:lol::lol::lol:

Dry sump mate dry sump. All the way. Wow.

Well no matter what if you get it all right. Its simply wont last. Read the hi octain r32 gtr arical great info. I will sell my bmw and buy my first dry sump setup

http://hioctaneracing.com/blog/2010/11/19/the-reality-of-the-rb26-oiling-system-part-2.html

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Is dry sump oil pan avalible for 4wd oil pan. ??

Yes rich people and serious racers use dry sump on the Rb26 (and RB30) but for the rest of us a proper closed system works fine. I can't believe anyone would knowingly dump oil on the track. They wouldn't last long over here.

If you got anywhere near the end of the oil control thread Marcus you will have found a consensus on what works short of dry sumping it.

MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yes rich people and serious racers use dry sump on the Rb26 (and RB30) but for the rest of us a proper closed system works fine. I can't believe anyone would knowingly dump oil on the track. They wouldn't last long over here.

If you got anywhere near the end of the oil control thread Marcus you will have found a consensus on what works short of dry sumping it.

By no means am I rich wouldn't even think so mate. Juat thought I would mention that. We all must come to the conclusion that these rb motors are flawed in this area. Just last night I came to terms wit it. Im not going to spend this kind of cash into a vechile and fight with oiling issue which is one of the worst ones you can have. Mind you I have read this whole thread and to date I own no rb motor that spits oil out. Rb26 that is. One of my old rb25's does it tho only if its over filled. But that just means the bottom end is starving or cavitating.

I do have my cars set up when it comes to catch tanks and all with info I got from this thread and others. But my decision to go dry sump has nothing to do with a consensus. It just that I see way more benefits just building one dry sump setup in the coming future for my r33 gtr. I have been gathering parts for that build for years im almost done. Thank god I do all my own work or I would never be able to do any of this. So not rich here mate just work my a☆☆ off for the things I have or want. As for the champions anyone that owns a skyline is a champ in my eyes. :D

I cant see sending more than 10k on a dry sump setup. In the past I looked it up and saw most of the stuff for like 6k. Thats missing a few things. For the ease of mind and all the additional benefits from what I see comes with dry sump setup I cant see why I would spend 25k plus on a build to not just go dry sump even if its just one of my cars. If the motor was to fail it wouldn't sit good in my head now spending the 25k and having to build again for 25k. I feel its worth it really.

Im new to dry sump and have lots to learn about it. Doesnt seem to hard to set up tho.

Edited by MJTru
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

I cant see sending more than 10k on a dry sump setup. In the past I looked it up and saw most of the stuff for like 6k. Thats missing a few things. For the ease of mind and all the additional benefits from what I see comes with dry sump setup I cant see why I would spend 25k plus on a build to not just go dry sump even if its just one of my cars. If the motor was to fail it wouldn't sit good in my head now spending the 25k and having to build again for 25k. I feel its worth it really.

Im new to dry sump and have lots to learn about it. Doesnt seem to hard to set up tho.

There is no doubt that dry sump is the best way to go. You should be able to put it together for not much more than the $6k you mention although you can spend a lot on hoses and connectors.

Dobz Experienced

Dobz

Posted
Posted (edited)

As I said before fatz you have to raise the level of the breathers on the sump by some means if you need to over fill to keep supply to the pickup. It's either that or you need to extend the sump to make more volume below.

And for effs sake put some kind of can on the breather from the filler cap as a last line of defence against dumping to ground.

Edited by Dobz
MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted (edited)

That will not happen mate it will die. I have not personally experience that but just read like we do here and learn. Read peoples experiences and everyone saying that it will work. Bandaid repairs basically. Sorry im in the same boat as everyone else mate. After spending so much I just thought I would share my opinions. If you guys find away I agree make it work. But in my opinion your not finding a way your just prolonging the inevitable.

Edited by MJTru
MJTru Mentor

MJTru

Posted
Posted

My opinions are based on reading. Reading the rich peoples approach. Both wet and dry. Funny how they started out wet and ended up dry. Thats the main pattern I see.

MrFijiGold Veteran

MrFijiGold

Posted
Posted

Guys, I am looking for extended sump (8/9L with baffle) options. Hi octane ones seem to be having mixed reviews (casting being porous).

Have contacted ASR but no reply yet..

Any tried and tested options out there?

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Guys, I am looking for extended sump (8/9L with baffle) options. Hi octane ones seem to be having mixed reviews (casting being porous).

Have contacted ASR but no reply yet..

Any tried and tested options out there?

Racefab have exported to happy customers in Australia and the US:

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/auction-874138805.htm

http://racefab.co.nz/

B-rice Mentor

B-rice

Posted
Posted

ASR do have extended sumps MrFIjiGold had a word with them and initially they wanted to use my car to design it however. Unfortunate happened and it's no more. I recommend you give them a call the big problem with out GTTs is that they have to design around the sway bar

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