Oil Control In Rb's For Circuit Drag Or Drift

[KiwiRS4T]

Lol

Thats funny. I punched the matching hole in the back of the head. In the first photo you will see it. Like i said its all was experimental

But seems to work. I will remake them all out of aluminum soon as i dont have a good tig welder. And its not a ac/dc high frequency unit. So i was stuck with making it out of steel

Im suprised at how well it works. Trust me mate. The finish product looked way better and turst me when i say there no rust on the end unit.

I'm not convinced that your steel box is the answer. There is a theory that much of the spewing out oil problem is to do with correct fitting of rings (not so much with RB30s where the crank action is suspected of much of the problem) and maybe that is how you have succeeded.

However if you have no problems well done.

BTW most engine installations I have seen don't have much room for a steel box (rusty or not) in that position!

[MJTru]

Yes i agree. Its fits perfectly. I do agree with the rings part. But as the motor ages we will see. But comparing to other setups at high boost levels i would see signs of oil. I wouldnt install rusty box to flow oil through as that would defeat the whole point. I feel from all of my test that the spool head drain doesn't work to well it just gets pluged and all it is, is a nicely shaped peace of aluminum with literally a hole drilled in it. I feel the oil pools and builds up faster than it can drain and blocks the factory ports. It gets more complex in cornering g's.

I have been messing with all sorts of ideas over the past year or so. Buy pooling the oil lets say in this rusty old box here. The weight of the actual oil helps to drain it back way way more efficiently. Rather than having the same idea happen in the head and overwhelming the factory hole by the last to rearward head bolts. This thing works like a water fall and frees up losts of breathing. One big down side we had was gear box swaps the engine couldnt tilt any so we had to drop the subframe till we got the box to fit then lifted it all in place. It was a pain but using a car lift the second time worked well. The benefits really out way the extra work. I do agree also with the additional stuff mensioned here as well. Properly picking the right size restrictor vs oil pump and rpms. Crank collar or newer crank. Exstended sump with good trap doors baffle. As well as good venting high above oil level. I found the rb25 to be a tougher at doing this. Without starving lifters of oil. So we approached it abit different.

Edited September 3, 2015 by MJTru

[mayor quimby]

Talking about blowby and catch can set ups....I was wondering how the Integrated Motorsports R34 GTR and Steve Ka/Powertune R34 GTR got rid of the bleeder hoses coming off the valve covers? Makes the engine bay look a shit load cleaner. I know the JGTC rb26dett's were very similar, so my guess is the dry sump oil system. If anyone has some info or other ideas let me know.

[GTSBoy]

Yuh, scavenge pumps can generate a decent vacuum inside. No need to allow for gases off the top, they're all coming out the bottom.

[fatz]

as my thrashed car gets older i have now added a accusump and activated the external scavenge

which has made the oil pressure awesome one left handers however its now blowing oil out the second catch can breathers

so i have now added a one way -12 valve to the front catch can to stop oil being pushed up the drain

will report back if awesome or not!

[SimonR32]

I ran my set up right up to 8800rpm at 2 bar (740rwhp) around the track with sticky R-comps the other night and not a drop out of the catch can.

This is with no oil restrictors to the head and a stock bottom end, venting the sump works

[fatz]

How many g are you pulling

1.4 is the magic number I find

[SimonR32]

How many g are you pulling

1.4 is the magic number I find

More than that with peaks well over 2 according to 10hz GPS

[XGTRX]

I ran my set up right up to 8800rpm at 2 bar (740rwhp) around the track with sticky R-comps the other night and not a drop out of the catch can.

This is with no oil restrictors to the head and a stock bottom end, venting the sump works

So would you say an easy improvement without tapping the sump would be venting through the dip stick?

Edited December 3, 2015 by XGTRX

[fatz]

More than that with peaks well over 2 according to 10hz GPS

Did watch some of your vids you wa lads need some more left turns long and high speed ones

[KiwiRS4T]

So would you say an easy improvement without tapping the sump would be venting through the dip stick?

I don't think the dipstick tube compares with two half inch vents.

[SimonR32]

Did watch some of your vids you wa lads need some more left turns long and high speed ones

No objections here haha

[fatz]

You are very lucky track wise for the rb motors

[Piggaz]

Sad state of affairs when you can only turn right otherwise the engine has a dummy spit.

[fatz]

Sad state of affairs when you can only turn right otherwise the engine has a dummy spit.

You coming out to play this year buttercup

Or just talking about driving ta Datsun

[Piggaz]

Lol.

Only 3 weeks left in this year. Next year good chance. Itching to get out !!

[XKLABA]

Sad state of affairs when you can only turn right otherwise the engine has a dummy spit.

I don't seem to have any issues turning left

Driving in a straight line, now that is a different story lol

[fatz]

You bastard with your flashy built motors should see a lot less blow u than my poor old stock 150k gtr motor

[XKLABA]

You might just be suprised how much gas comes out under power, even with a built motor

[Pezhead]

Here is my contribution. I added some little covers over the pan vents. Not sure if you can see the small hole down the bottom to let oil drain back down.