Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as topic states... looking to import track only car, must be off tap lol nothing to spend after it lands.. will be used only for track work so rego/compliance doesnt matter.

looking at something decent in size and with good power... not silvias/180s/32s etc coz theyre too small lol

all help is appreciated :teehee:

ive spoken to dotars, jspec and cams, got all my info and well all i have to do is find the car now n get it here!!

can you give quick summary of what you need, all i know is you need your cams licence.... Which one, how do you get it etc?

Cheers,

Mark.

you cannot bring in a race car with an L2S. you need a minimum C3 (now called NC) - national circuit licence. to get an NC licence you must first hold a PC licence and compete in a certain number of events in 1 calendar year. check the cams site for the current requirements.

Guest Mashrock
you cannot bring in a race car with an L2S. you need a minimum C3 (now called NC) - national circuit licence. to get an NC licence you must first hold a PC licence and compete in a certain number of events in 1 calendar year. check the cams site for the current requirements.

crikey.. well there u go eh.. i always thouht it was l2s.

i always thought it was l2s.

what is actually required for your car to enter these events tho? most dont need current rego.

just to pass the scruitneering (sp) ?

to bringing race/rally car etc u need level 3 which is the national cams license..

the guy at dotars told me that if its specified as a drag car, there are no restriction to wht the car can have, and all u need is history that u race and provide the right license, in which case is ANDRA.. this way is heaps more simple... say its a drag car n my brother can show his history and license and then it gets approved and comes here!

im pretty sure he said u jus provide license type and history of motorsport, in this case which drifting is a L2NS... show ur histry etc, and u should be able to bring it in...

didnt go into too much detail... i jus gonna do the drag car way, lot simpler, and my brother n his mate have done that b4 so we kno what to do. he jus bought in a drag corvette 3500HP without a problem... so i think bringing in a 500hp whatever car for drift should be pretty simple.

thanks

  • 3 weeks later...

Even for drift you need a NC (C3) or higher to get an import approval. Once it is here if you do not need rego anyone can buy it from the importer but CAMS expect the importer to be the driver....ie I personally would not be bringing in cars for other people to use in case I was refused when I wanted one next lol.

If you need rego, rally rego in NSW requires an L2S or higher.

Steve, my 91 GTR was $9,400 landed.

muahahah its a vspec now!

no just a stocker non vspec, about 120,000klm, was 450,000yen at auction. it was tired but that wasn't an issue since i had to redo everythign anyway

I haven't looked for a while at gtr auction prices but I assume they have gone back down from the insane prices when the 15 year old rule was in.

FOB price plus say 2k for shipping and 1k for brokers fee....its pretty cheap.

Thanks for that, i will be looking into it for myself in the next few months - ive decided to get serious about hillclimbs, but i wont wreck my white r32 in order to do it

Now it just comes down to the paperwork and finding someone with the right cams licence, i only have L2S

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...