Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I have made the mine set, that I should try and get a purpose built track car, I have a chance to pick up a track only R32 GTS-T and give the R34 a little rest on the track days. The car is basically stock and I was looking to turn it into a track worthy bad boy. I am looking out for the following bits to cost up the final outcome. I have listed my track mods and would like some opinion if I have my priorities mixed up. Or if someone can point out something I have missed.

Phase 1 (Must do)

1. Oil cooler (Large Sump if I can get one)

2. Brake pads & dot 4 fluid (Rotors and caliper upgrade if poosible)

3. 17 Wheels and tyres (What size fits on the 32 width wise)

4. Coil overs (Any suggestions on which type?)

Phase 2 (Go fast)

5. Balled turbo (GTRS would be nice!)

6. Exhaust, Pod, FMIC, bleed value (How much boost?)

7. ECU

8. Camber kit

9. Sway bars

Any other suggestions or missed bits?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/112241-track-car-r32-gts-t/
Share on other sites

Well I have made the mine set, that I should try and get a purpose built track car, I have a chance to pick up a track only R32 GTS-T and give the R34 a little rest on the track days. The car is basically stock and I was looking to turn it into a track worthy bad boy. I am looking out for the following bits to cost up the final outcome. I have listed my track mods and would like some opinion if I have my priorities mixed up. Or if someone can point out something I have missed.

Phase 1 (Must do)

1. Oil cooler (Large Sump if I can get one)

2. Brake pads & dot 4 fluid (Rotors and caliper upgrade if poosible)

3. 17 Wheels and tyres (What size fits on the 32 width wise)

4. Coil overs (Any suggestions on which type?)

Phase 2 (Go fast)

5. Balled turbo (GTRS would be nice!)

6. Exhaust, Pod, FMIC, bleed value (How much boost?)

7. ECU

8. Camber kit

9. Sway bars

Any other suggestions or missed bits?

Having been using our R32GTST on the circuit for 3 years, following are my suggestions;

1. Oil cooler is essential, the 2wd sump is much better than the 4wd sump, so it wouldn't be on my list to upgrade in phase 1

2. Pads and fluid are good, I rebuilt the callipers and fitted braided lines, the rubber ones weren't in such good condition. I also went straight to DBA slotted rotors. If you get an MSpec, don't worry about upgrading the callipers they work great.

3. I use 17 X 8 with 35 mm offset all round with 245/40/17 R type tyres (currently Yokohama A032R's)

4. The Jap ones are crap, I use Bilsteins with Eibach coils

5. Personally I think the GTRS is too big for an RB20 on the circuit, they are also expensive for what they are. I used a GCG ball bearing high flowed RB25 turbo on our RB20. The old girl had an untouched 170,000 k's, so I limited it to 225 rwkw, plenty fast enough, was the fastest Skyline at every event we ran. It's not about max power, on the circuit it's the average power and the standard gearbox ratios require a nice spread.

6. I used a Autospeed twin valve boost controller until we upgraded to the Power FC Boost Control Kit. I felt safe at 1.3 bar for the 225 rwkw. The exhaust was turbo back, split dump, 3.25" all the way

7. Power FC, with Datalogit

8. Whiteline bushes everywhere, caster is very important, gets rid of that turn in understeer. Adjustable camber bushes front and rear and rear subframe alignment bushes set for "good allround"

9. Whiteline adjustable, because stabiliser bars are the best bang for buck handling upgrade you can make.

10. Get rid of the HICAS

11 Strut brace on the front is essential, do the rear when you have done everything else

I could write a few more pages but that will do for a start, then get out and drive it, run as many events as your can afford.

Hope that helps

:laugh: cheers :D

Edited by Sydneykid

What the hell would I do with a RB31DETT!. Before I start going fast I want to have the brakes, tyres & Suspension sorted. There will be plenty of beers had before we start dropping in rocket enginees!

definately a good idea. my advice though is get one that is road registered or at least complied (so it can be registered). trailering a mild car to events is a pain. fair easier to drive it there. plus should you want to sell it the re-sale on an unregisterable car is minimal.

i have just done the same thing. I bought a 32 GTST to use as a track car a few months ago, but after thinking about it i have decided i like racing the GTR too much to just keep it as a street car, so i will probably race both, or sell the GTST.

good stuff paul!! joining the gtst club is the way to go.

with the turbo i had a t3/4 hiflowed which is off vl commodore, i ran 16psi all day every day didnt miss a beat! and you saw how well it went out on the track. with tyres i have 10'(275) on the back and 8'(235) on the front by 18s and with suspension i have same set up as sydneykid suggested bilstien shocks and Eibach springs, and it handles fantastic

good luck hope to see ya out there soon.

aaron

in terms of a trailer, depending how many track days you're actually doin a year, it works out cheaper to just hire a trailer for the day rather than buying one

Not once everyone finds out you have one and wants to borrow it.

For a fee of course ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
    • Shimmed or shimless, still solid, no hydraulic pump up stuff.
×
×
  • Create New...