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Sydneykid,

Over in Perth we had a guy with an auto R34 do the e-manage and without the ignition controller he was able to get the same power as a manual R33 (with a fresh engine build) with the same modifications including the same spec turbo. He achieved over 300rwhp.

If you just use the ecu software/cable I think it's hard to knock the performance over the S-afc II.

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Hey all.

Been following this with interest - I'm currently deciding whether to get a SAFC2 or an e-manage. Got a R33 GTSt and I'm only planning on lightly modding it - 3" exhaust w/split dump pipe, pod filter, and winding up the boost slightly to 9psi.

If I go the way of the emanage, should I bother with ignition harness?

Hey all.

Been following this with interest - I'm currently deciding whether to get a SAFC2 or an e-manage. Got a R33 GTSt and I'm only planning on lightly modding it - 3" exhaust w/split dump pipe, pod filter, and winding up the boost slightly to 9psi.

If I go the way of the emanage, should I bother with ignition harness?

Hi, personally, based on what I have found out, I don't think it is possible to effectively alter the igntion curve in an auto without poorly affecting the auto shift logic. So I wouldn't bother.

Sydneykid,

Over in Perth we had a guy with an auto R34 do the e-manage and without the ignition controller he was able to get the same power as a manual R33 (with a fresh engine build) with the same modifications including the same spec turbo. He achieved over 300rwhp.

If you just use the ecu software/cable I think it's hard to knock the performance over the S-afc II.

Hi rev, thanks for that, do you know why he didn't go for the ignition controller?

PS; Anyone know if the standard R34 GTT autos have the same 20 rwkw advantage over the standard R33 autos as the manuals do?

The 34 has 20 or 30 nm less torque but the same kw at the engine with an auto.

Also a note to what skylinegeoff has said. When I drive my r34 auto when it's cold my changes are so slippy. You basically want to keep the revs under 3500 and away from any real power until the tranny is warmed up.

Once warmed up though, the changes are never harsh but they do get crisper. I always use the tiptronic buttons on the steering wheel to change gears and the only thing I can add from this respect is that at full throttle and big revs I get a burble between 1st and 2nd gear but at full throttle and lower revs (say less than 5000) there is no burble it just slips smoothly into 2nd.

I still have a few things to modify on mine before I get to the computer but I watch this space with interest and eventually I'll get there. Certainly the workshop I asked for a quote did not seem in the least perturbed by my car being an auto. This seems to be an issue on the forum which hasn't got any good quality answers.

Yeah I agree with Abo Bob, when cold the gearbox does slip a fair bit, when the heat is into it though it’s great. I only used to notice this slightly when the car was N/A…with the turbo the effect is very noticeable….just means letting the car warm-up properly that’s all.

With my current dramas with coil packs I’ve still been very cautious with putting in the ignition harness…so much that I’ve decided to sell it.

The rest of the e-manage works perfectly though, and I’ve been very happy with the ease of programming it with a laptop.

Oh mine is a manual..forgot to mention that.

Hi, personally, based on what I have found out,  I don't think it is possible to effectively alter the igntion curve in an auto without poorly affecting the auto shift logic.  So I wouldn't bother.

I rang around a few places today trying to get prices for tuning of the e-manage, and was actually talked out of it by a distributor. They told me that for the money I'm spending on an e-manage (incl tuning), they'd recommend something like the Link ECU. Main reason was that they said coil packs are prone to failure under the e-manage (which I believe has been discussed in this thread)..

Just passing on what I've heard - if you'd like to know more PM me.

But how much is the cost of the Link ECU compare to the E-manage?

I was also told to go with the Link ECU, but then I heared that the Link ECU might not work with auto too?! Not quite sure.

The reason I brought my e-manage was that during that time I was going for the about same price of the new SAFC2. Even if the E-manage's ignition doesn't work with the auto, with just the fuel tuning, there is more points to play with compare to the SAFC2.

But I still haven't installed my E-manage as yet :D Will let you guys know how it goes when it is on.

I was quoted $1500 to buy, install and tune the e-manage, and $1995 for the Link ECU..You can prolly get both cheaper if you look around, that was just from a quick call around..

I'm really tossing it up at the moment - oh well, all's fun when doing up your car!

Dunno if this helps, but I can confirm that with the e-Manage, coil-packs are prone to failure.

I have it installed w / injection and ignition harness on my manual R33 S2 GTS-t. I've already blown two within 6 months. One blew about 5 months after installing the e-Manage, while under heavy acceleration. The next one blew when I was having battery problems, when I had to start the car repeatedly within a short space of time.

I don't know how much truth there is to this, but was told that the problem was localised to Series 2 R33 GTS-t's and S15 Silvias? Regardless, it has been a total pain to get individual replacement coil-packs for each of these cases and thus I'm going down the well travelled PowerFC path.

Mind you the e-Manage performed just fine other than that - handled the change to 550cc injectors and Z32 AFM pretty well.

Used the e-manage over here on probally 6 cars now no hassles, and no coil failures. we used it only where a powerfc cannot be utilisedeg auto supra, soarer, auto skyline, jza70 and auto 180sx. not that it concerns you but some toyotas are difficult to get timing control. other than that they run sweet and give superior control to safc2 and equal performance to hand controller tuned powerfc's. it has no problem with larger injectors or even afm swaps even z32 onto toyotas and the like. if i were you i would buy local to get warranty. drop these guys an email [email protected] at D1*GARAGE, or if you have no luck could match any offer on the same stuff. but thats not why i posted. more interested in giving info on what we have found to be a good thing.

if worst comes to worst gizzmo electronics in nz can reprogram the standard eprom to suit your mods, i know it will need to be changed each time you do major mods but least it is easy to remove, cheap to do and gauranteed to work. cant remember if they do rb25 though??

i am getting online with their stuff to offer the fmic, filter and zorst guys here in sa an affordable alternative to e-manage and powerfc, but i am far from being able to offer it, still collecting enough ecu's to do change over.

give them a look http://www.gizzmoelectronics.co.nz/product...cuupgrades.html

Apparently the coil pack problems can be solved by putting a rectifier diode in line with the outgoing ignition signal.

Theres a bit of information here but you'll have to go trawling:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/emanage/

It mainly affects r34 and s15 which i have been told have coil and igniter on plug (is this true?).

My coils haven't died yet but it's only been a month :P

BHDave, have you got a series 2 R33 or a series 1 ?

The series 2's have a similar coil arrangement to R34's and S15's. I am using the E-manage for fuel control on my RB25DET series 2 but haven't been brave enough to use it for ignition control yet :P

I'm running a blowthrough Z32 AFM and it works really well :P

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok I have just found out that Trust have finished a new program so that the coils in skylines and I think he said evo lancers wont fry. any new installation should use the new software.

Also i was told not to put it on the auto which sucks arse. This is from the aussie distributors who were at the Trust factory 2 weeks ago.

They said it was something to do with when you splice the wires or whatever they do to install it it alters the signal going to the auto ecu and so confuses it.

I assume it's lowering the resistance or the voltage or something which stuffs things up. I don't know anymore. 666DAN has been using it and his is an auto. You got any updates for us Dan?

I'm going to start an auto thread to see what we can dig up. Might go over to SDU and have a looksee too.

I just don't understand why it could be a problem to use fuel control but not ignition control. Heaps of people use SAFC's on autos don't they?

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