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Coilovers For Track Use?


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hey, just need some opinions and advise to which way i should head for coilovers?

i have bilstien shocks and eibach springs in my r32 gtst at the moment but want to get more aggresive setup and alot more adjustment plus to get my rear ride height down.

there is alot of options out there for track setup like

buddyclub

teins

hks

koni etc

and also a few aus made ones that ive heard about.

but which one to go for????

also where is best to buy from to get a good price?

thanks

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LOL...no idea. :worship: I have had trouble finding something that will work better then my current gear...it will need a big improvement to justfity all that extra expense.

Whichever option you go for, be sure to give a bit of feeback. :D

One question though...why do you want a lot more adjustment, and what do you mean by agressive?

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i still feel i get a bit to much body roll but mainly to get the car lower, and be able to adjust dampening. also my car doesnt sit level the rear is alot higher then the front and i dont want to raise the front, and the dont make springs any lower.

when out on the track the rear left or right lifts depending on which way im cornering and spins the inside wheel, im hoping this and a different diff setup will stop this.

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i still feel i get a bit to much body roll but mainly to get the car lower, and be able to adjust dampening. also my car doesnt sit level the rear is alot higher then the front and i dont want to raise the front, and the dont make springs any lower.

when out on the track the rear left or right lifts depending on which way im cornering and spins the inside wheel, im hoping this and a different diff setup will stop this.

do you have sway bars and strut braces? they will help with body roll and the flex in the chassis, but they wont solve all your problems. i recently bought some HSD - HR coilovers for my R33. these, for the price, are surprisingly good and are adjustable in spring, dampening and height. along with adjustable camber kits, control arms, sway bars etc.. made a huge difference to the car, especially with regards to 'body roll'. its fun being able to play with your suspension settings when your at a track day.

my car also spins the inside wheel when its on the track. playing with your suspension (if its adjustable...) wont make to much of a difference. the standard LSD in the skyline isn't that great and wasn't really made for hard track work. i'd recommend a 1.5 or 2 way mechanical LSD, something i'll be doing eventually. even though this is really expensive, it'll stop the problem of spinning the inside wheel when cornering and it'll make your car a whole lot more fun and challenging to drive :)

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thanks for the info frink,

i already have sway bars and strutbrace front and rear, also adjustable caster/radius rods, adjustable upper rear control arms,front upper control arms also just have a bolt in cage just to stiffin it up abit too, so all i know that i dont have is a good set of coilovers, and handling wise hopfully thats all my car is missing

i will need that mechanical lsd for sure, i dont know much about them, any more info on which lsd to go for would be great aswell!!

how much did your coilovers cost?

thanks

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hrm...

while you guys are on the topic of LSD's...

what would be the advantage of a 1.5 way LSD over a 1 way?

i understand for drifting why you need a 1.5 way or 2 way LSD, but for pure circuit work, i don't understand what benefit it would have, as its going to compromise the handling of the car... i.e. will 'push' you through a corner, even when off the throttle.. whereas with a 1-way it will only push when on the throttle...

or maybe i'm not understanding at all?

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my limited understanding is this. when you are on the brakes, and down shifting you are also using engine braking, under these cases a 1.5 way will partially lock transfering the engine braking to both wheels. a 1 way will only lock up under acceleration, and a 2 way will lock up under both conditions.

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2 way is no better under accel than a 1 way, or 1.5way. it just locks up more aggressively under deceleration.

the most popular choice for the rear diff in a skyline for circuit would have to be 1.5 way in my experience.

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my coilovers cost me about $1600. thats it! they are great. visit the otomoto website HERE...

my knowledge of LSD's is also very limited. but basically, Beer Baron is correct. serious drifters will always use a 2 way LSD, as it locks up in both acceleration and deceleration. you dont so much need it for circuit applications, but serious racers will also use a 2 way LSD. i cant tell you why, i just know that they do. correct me if im wrong though.... maybe some of the more experienced guys could tell you more?

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hey, just need some opinions and advise to which way i should head for coilovers?

i have bilstien shocks and eibach springs in my r32 gtst at the moment but want to get more aggresive setup and alot more adjustment plus to get my rear ride height down.

there is alot of options out there for track setup like

buddyclub

teins

hks

koni etc

and also a few aus made ones that ive heard about.

but which one to go for????

also where is best to buy from to get a good price?

thanks

Here's your problem, in the Bilsteins you have the most sophisticated valving of any shock under $1,000 (that's each). So to get a better shock you need to spend at least $4,000 (for the 4). That's what Roy was talking about, you really need to go to DMS or Proflex to get a "better" shock. That's a ~$7500 spend for the 4 spring/shock units.

For that reason I run Bilsteins in my own race R32GTST, I can't justify the additional expense. The spring rates are ~350 lbs per inch on the front and ~225 lbs per inch on the rear. I use a 30 mm adjustable Whiteline front stabiliser bar and a 24 mm adjustable Whiteline rear stabiliser bar. It does not roll excessively, it uses the full tread (even tyre temperatures) of the 245/40/17 Yokohama A032R's that we run. It has 7 degrees of caster and (depending on the circuit) 2.5 to 4.0 degrees negative camber on the front and 1.0 to 2.0 degrees negative camber on the rear. Height is set at 350to 360 mm front and 350 to 340 mm rear, so it's not low, that's the height R32/33/34 's handle best at. HICAS is gone of course, Whiteline adjustable bushes are used for caster and camber, strut braces front and rear and it has a 6 point roll cage.

So my suggestions to fix your problem for a reasonable cost;

1. Upgrade the stabiliser bars, if you are not already using 30/24 (2wd) or 24/24 (4wd)

2. Buy a set of coil over conversions for the Bilsteins and fit appropriate spring rates

3. If you use similar springs rates to mine you will find that they fit into the Bilstein damping window

4. You can get the Bilsteins revalved if you want to use higher spring rates

How much?

A. The stabiliser bars are available on the Group Buy for $219 each (sell your current ones)

B. Using Eibach main and tender springs and German made coil over conversion for the Bilsteins, you are looking at around $1,000 including set up and freight both ways.

C. PM me for more details

Hope that was of some help

:) Cheers :thumbsup:

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cheers thanks richard,

now do you recomend any particular coilovers?

it's a tough one mate. i think more important that brand is having the right spring rate choice, then ensuring you have a damper that can control it in track conditions without over heating. at the lower end of price it may be hard to find a set of dampes and springs that are better than your bilsteins. i would maybe look at having them revalved, and buy some higher rate springs. maybe some advice from gary or others who have big power circuit GTSTs like your can help with that. I would also speak to paul joyner at heasmans. he can advise you on the damping etc, and modify it for you as needed.

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thanks lunatic32 ill check them out.

richard, cheers for the info,your right ive been speaking to gary and i think its best to keep the setup i have and maybe change the spring rate and getting them re valved, he said ill need to spend over 7500 to get a set of coilovers that will be a improvement to what i have.

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thanks lunatic32 ill check them out.

richard, cheers for the info,your right ive been speaking to gary and i think its best to keep the setup i have and maybe change the spring rate and getting them re valved, he said ill need to spend over 7500 to get a set of coilovers that will be a improvement to what i have.

LOL..in all seriousness..edit you have PM:)

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