Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday. Just wanted to share some pics of my car. Some of you may have seen it on other forums. I didn't want to pay the premium price for the RB25 so I done the following to save money. All work done by me with the odd help of mates in my shed besides the driveshaft and a bit of alloy welding for the intercooler brackets. Without much tweaking it has made 323rwhp (241rwkw) through the stock Aristo auto with a stock ECU at 16psi. Only power mods are my custom exhaust, FMIC and home made boost cut defender. I ran the exhaust under the sump and fitted a smaller diameter but twin diaphragm brake booster from a Mitsubishi to clear the rear turbo. I was told this would never work with the stock turbos. I made a custom 3" Y dump to replace the shitty cast item. This was needed to clear the steering shaft. I also ported the wastegate becuase the 2JZ has overboosting probs if you fit a big exhaust with the shitty cast Y dump removed.

Cheers >_<

post-2657-1147598378.jpg

post-2657-1147598409.jpg

post-2657-1147598432.jpg

post-2657-1147598451.jpg

post-2657-1147598475.jpg

post-2657-1147598493.jpg

post-2657-1147598523.jpg

post-2657-1147598555.jpg

post-2657-1147598573.jpg

post-2657-1147598612.jpg

post-2657-1147598627.jpg

post-2657-1147598646.jpg

post-2657-1147598663.jpg

post-2657-1147598691.jpg

post-2657-1147598722.jpg

Edited by DennisRB30
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117800-toyota-powered-skyline/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You devil child you!

Nah it looks good, something new i guess!

Any dyno sheets to have a look at?

I have a dyno sheet, but its paper not ones and zeros and I don't have a scanner. 323rwhp through an auto is pretty good for near stock everything I reckon. >_< It made that at a supra dyno day, there was a GTR that went on the dyno 2 cars before me and got 293rwhp, so 30rwhp more than an RB26 through the auto is a pretty good figure I reckon. I must admit I have no idea what mods it had, but from what I could tell it had at least a large exhaust.

' date='14 May 2006, 08:11 PM' post='2165972']

r31? aus or jap spec?

ps looks f**king crazy :)

This thing looks like a grandmas car. It is a local ser3 R31 GXE white with 2 tone grey and hub caps (you can see the hub caps in the first pic) and is not lowered yet. And it has stock brakes :D Really need to do something about that :D

That looks really crazy mate. Well done to you for coming up with a new idea.

Thanks guys :D

I highly recommend this cheap conversion for ANY car including silvias and later model skylines :D The bang for buck is awesome. And you end up with (arguably) the most bullet proof Jap engine incase you want more power. Insanity is only a big single turbo conversion away. I'm quite happy with the current power level though and I don't want to spend much more on the car as its just a budget project and daily diver. It gets under 10L/100km fuel consumption too :)

As my project progressed I met quite few people that had used the Aristo conversion in all sorts of cars, various old supras, celicas, VK and VL commos, cressidas, silvias, and an R32. There are shitloads of them getting around, one thing they have in common is they all go damn hard! It is cheapest to just keep the auto box (which is quite strong) and as the power of the engine is fairly high, you will get faster 400m times with it anyway, which is all I am after. I am hoping for 12's on my first outing and 11's with a few more tweaks here and there.

i was actually thinking of this conversion myself, 2jz into a GTR........

2jz is a better engine than Rb26 in terms of engine design and strength, and definately oil control, so good to see someone else has done it. good work mate!!

btw, ill stick to my Rb26, since im so loyal to nissans.lol

I would be interested to see the costs too if you don't mind :cheers:

I'd be interested in a conversion like this if my RB25 fails and it was a cheaper alternative.

Well Done,

James

The auto 2JZ halfcut cost me $3500, and the same importer wanted $4500-5000K for a manal RB25, I think the auto 25 was around $3500, but having been in a auto R33 with a few mods, there was no way I was spending that much money to have the car struggle to get 14's. My broher was the owner of the said auto 33, he then got an auto 1JZ soarer, which dispite weighing 200kg more than the 33 was much faster even without an LSD. He recorded a 13.6 with no traction with FMIC and exhaust. This led me to the conclusion that 12's would be a walk in the park in a R31 for 1JZ, but then I decided to go a 2JZ for the hell of it. The 1JZ costs only 2K with auto and will easily do 12's in a r33, and probably do 11's in a silvia or R32. There is no way I would fit a RB25 into any car when the 1JZ is so cheap. (not saying the 25 is shit, just saying that it is overpriced) So guys, don't overlook the 1JZ either. Nissan purists don't like it, but IMO, nissan makes the better cars, toyota makes the better engines, why not join both to have the ultimate? My fav car would be a R34 with a 2JZ in it.

Other than the $75 brake booster, nothing cost more than an RB25 conversion would have. But you must remember I had to make all the mounts etc myself. I just sat the engine where I wanted it, then made some dummy tempates for the mounts out of tinplate the cut them out of steel and welded them up. When I say it was cheap, its only becuase I don't the work myself. If you payed someone to do all the extra work the costs would add up. If I already hada RB25 and it blew up, I would just fit a RB30 bottom end.

Edited by DennisRB30

I take it you have probably seen these before, but I figured while we were on the topic of Skylines being powered by non-Nissan engines, I might bring it up again. This R33 has a 5.7L LS1 V8 shoe-horned between the strut towers, done by Street Force in WA.

post-27958-1147665997.jpg

post-27958-1147666006.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...