Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Would you take Garage Saurus GT-R over a Z tune R34, F40?

Depends on the application...

I believe the Garage Saurus R32 GTR is purely a drag car setup.

Nismo Z-Tune is all-rounder sports / performance circuit car.

Ferrari F40 is a legendary 80's - 90's Super Car.

Thanks for your answer, I would still go for Garage Saurus GT-R, I have seen a white F40 on Speedhunters which does look hot. http://www.speedhunt...40-in-high-res/

:)

That F40 is so nice.

Those brake calipers!

Dspeeds look great with the Projector headlights. Due to the lines in the lense make them look OEM'ish.

Good work for blackening the surrounds.

N1's a different matter. I think the tinted ones look better due to the black in the headlights.

I recall $400ish for Dspeeds from RHD deliverd and about $240 for the tinted from Justjap

Would you take Garage Saurus GT-R over a Z tune R34, F40?

f40, then sell to buy z tune, personally, z tune is one of my all time dream cars.

Theres only 1 car I would take over it.

see cars that make you thread in wasteland.

They're just under $450 delivered from RHD at the moment.

I remember with my Kandy Red 32 I paid somewhere between $6-$700 almost 10 years ago.

I guess that's part of the reason they are still quite a rare sight on the roads.

I would prefer smoked D-speeds with the N1 lights because IMO the eBay/Just Jap ones don't look quite right due to not having any lines in the lenses.

I will be giving the bulbs a dusting of silver spray paint so get rid of the orange.

Just get T5 clear and clear globes. Do they sell smoked Dspeed ?, I couldn't find any :(

The one issue I found with Dspeeds is the black lug at the back, always seems one of them breaks off from new even.

Must admit also Justjap (JJR) ones are more solid.

I have a new set of clear Dspeeds but they didn't suit the new N1 headlights :( . (if any one is after a set $440)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...