Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

bugger, i was hoping to get 270-280rwkw's from mine! With a FPR!

there is no reason you cant get that. dont forget the injectors dont know what power you are making, they just meter out fuel. duty cycle depends on the tune too. so with a leaner tune i could make more power, and have less duty at the same time. but it's around that mark that you will be pushing them. if 270-280 is all you want to make then fine, but if you may be after more power down the track skip the 440s and go for something bigger.

there is no reason you cant get that. dont forget the injectors dont know what power you are making, they just meter out fuel. duty cycle depends on the tune too. so with a leaner tune i could make more power, and have less duty at the same time. but it's around that mark that you will be pushing them. if 270-280 is all you want to make then fine, but if you may be after more power down the track skip the 440s and go for something bigger.

well should have my new valve springs and fpr installed in a month or so and i'll let you know the results!

Just for reference I am currentley making a bit over 400hp on a stock fuel system, and thats the fuel system limiting the power not the engine set-up, it's been tuned so it's 'safe' but I need to put in a fpr just for the extra saftey net and will need to upgrade injectors and pump before I can make anymore power.

Thats all on a 33 though so not sure if it's exactly the same as the 32????

just saw a 32 gtr today make 295rwkw's on standard fuel system!

Repeat after me ............happy dyno.............. :P

295 + 75 X 1.34 = 495 bhp

I don't think so Tim :mad:

:dry: cheers :)

Would 600cc injectors be ok if i wanted to push for 350kw? Or would 700cc's be a better choice? They are roughly the same sort of price? I'd prefer to run my injectors at around 80% duty so at a guess 700cc's would be right. Anything over that can cause them to jam open, or worse, jam closed which is not cool. Guy, don't push a stock fuel system that far. Anything over 90% is really asking for trouble.

The Nismo pump is rated at 25% bigger than a factory pump. Would a 040 be a better choice? These pretty much drop in and would appear to flow more?

Would 600cc injectors be ok if i wanted to push for 350kw? Or would 700cc's be a better choice? They are roughly the same sort of price? I'd prefer to run my injectors at around 80% duty so at a guess 700cc's would be right. Anything over that can cause them to jam open, or worse, jam closed which is not cool. Guy, don't push a stock fuel system that far. Anything over 90% is really asking for trouble.

The Nismo pump is rated at 25% bigger than a factory pump. Would a 040 be a better choice? These pretty much drop in and would appear to flow more?

It's just simple numbers, follow the Sydneykid rule of thumb

1 cc of injector = 1 bhp in a 6 cylinder engine

That's already allowing for 85% duty cycle (so don't take it away again later)

700 cc = 700 bhp

700 bhp = 522 kw

522 kw - 75 kw = 447 rwkw

600 cc = 600 bhp

600 bhp = 448 kw

448 kw - 75 kw = 373 rwkw

700 cc per minute = 42 litres per hour

42 litres per hour X 6 injectors = 240 litres per hour

That's at 100% duty cycle (so don't add 15%)

A standard R33GTR pump is 210 litres per hour at 12 volts and around 245 litres per hour at 13. 8 volts

If the Nismo pump flows 25% more, that's 263 litres per hour at 12 volts and 306 litres per hour at 13.8 volts.

There you go, your answer is in the numbers.

:P cheers :D

PS; I could have simply said 600 cc injectors and the Nismo pump will be fine, but now you know how to do the numbers yourself. As a smart guy once said, "give a guy a fish and you feed him for a day, teach him how to fish and you feed him for life".

Repeat after me ............happy dyno.............. :wave:

295 + 75 X 1.34 = 495 bhp

I don't think so Tim :(

:D cheers :)

Well my car went on the dyno the car before this GTR and only made 214rwkw's compared to a few weeks ago making 228rwkw's on the BOOSTWORX dyno that is renownd for being pretty accurate or even perhaps a little low and i have made absolutely no changes since then!

This GTR had an R34 engine with the N1 turbos with a 3.5" exhaust and 19psi, that was the only mods!

I guess he could've been lying about his mods but i looked over the car very carefully for a long time with him and it looked pretty damn stock and definitely didn't have an aftermarket comp.

(Joel, my car wasn't showing any signs of valve float and we revved the car up to 6500rpm! And it was making max power before 6500rpm. This is leading me to think that the valve float isn't causing me to not make the power i should be! I'm thinking it could be something else but i can't for the life of me think what it is!)

It's just simple numbers, follow the Sydneykid rule of thumb

1 cc of injector = 1 bhp in a 6 cylinder engine

That's already allowing for 85% duty cycle (so don't take it away again later)

Hi Gary,

As always, some insightful comments :)

Why would we not allow for 100% duty when trying to calculate a theoretical maximum?

For example, do injectors get hot or damaged by being on for more than n% of the time?

Is it to do with timing of fuel pulses? Do they wear out faster? So in real life, we do not

run 100% therefore not in the formula either?

I've heard the 'leave headroom for safety' argument; but I can't see how it applies. If

any one injector gets blocked then there's going to be a lean-out (because approx only

5/6 of the required fuel is going to be delivered, regardless of maximum duty).

Or is this simply to allow for the worst-case in a calculation sense - i.e. most injectors

cannot operate at their rated capacity and the 85% is a good approximation for the

condition of most injectors?

Regards,

Saliya

(Joel, my car wasn't showing any signs of valve float and we revved the car up to 6500rpm! And it was making max power before 6500rpm. This is leading me to think that the valve float isn't causing me to not make the power i should be! I'm thinking it could be something else but i can't for the life of me think what it is!)

It needs more boost then. :)

No idea.. it may be floating a little causing torque to drop off a little early but not quite enough for the lifters to pump up so its not that noticable??

Up the fuel pressure push more boost in to it and see what happens, somethings not right through as its definitely not making the power it should.

The first sign I noticed saw when mine was floating was I had to pull timing out of the top end, considerable amounts of timing and there was one rpm point where it would ping no matter what ign value was in there.

Pull a psi or two out and it was able to run a full 20degree's ign timing vs 2psi more and only 5-6degree's with still slight ping.

I really wouldn't mind checking out what ign. values your running at wot some time, would be interesting if I can see the same trand as mine shows. :D

I've now got another set of lifters so I will be dropping them in as soon as I make up a little jig to fit the valve springs up.

It needs more boost then. :)

No idea.. it may be floating a little causing torque to drop off a little early but not quite enough for the lifters to pump up so its not that noticable??

Up the fuel pressure push more boost in to it and see what happens, somethings not right through as its definitely not making the power it should.

The first sign I noticed saw when mine was floating was I had to pull timing out of the top end, considerable amounts of timing and there was one rpm point where it would ping no matter what ign value was in there.

Pull a psi or two out and it was able to run a full 20degree's ign timing vs 2psi more and only 5-6degree's with still slight ping.

I really wouldn't mind checking out what ign. values your running at wot some time, would be interesting if I can see the same trand as mine shows. :D

I've now got another set of lifters so I will be dropping them in as soon as I make up a little jig to fit the valve springs up.

I'm going up to my parents tomorrow so i can pop round if you like and you can check things out and i'll take you for a spin!

I don't really wanna run more than 15 psi though!

I'm getting my valve springs next weekend off sky30, maybe we could do it together one weekend?

I've been told to get a spark plug and drill the guts out and solder an air fitting on for some compressed air to make it easier to pop them out!

I'm going up to my parents tomorrow so i can pop round if you like and you can check things out and i'll take you for a spin!

I don't really wanna run more than 15 psi though!

I'm getting my valve springs next weekend off sky30, maybe we could do it together one weekend?

I've been told to get a spark plug and drill the guts out and solder an air fitting on for some compressed air to make it easier to pop them out!

Tomorrow is fine.

Yep I think that sounds like a good idea.. your welding skills + my what ever lol and yer we should be able to get them done. :)

I've got a few pics of a spring compressor thats suitable for the rb det head.

Post away. :D or email a nice quality if u wish. :D

I have so many damn dyno graphs its not funny. :)

that oxygen sensor u gave me a while back! Do you remember if it was working perfectly? As you'll be able to see from my dyno graph it runs a bit rich to start with a shaun mentioned something about him thinking it was on its way out and the tuner said yesterday that when it was on the dyno to begin with it was running very rich but got better once it warmed up!

So if yours is ok i'll put that one on!

imgp07486my.th.jpg

as u can see the graph is really good which doesn't help me in finding why it isn't making the power it should. Its making awesome torque and the guy running the dyno was amazed at the torque the thing was pulling, on my first run it was slipping on the dyno so he had to strap it down even more!

1. i've checked everywhere for air/vacuum/boost leaks

2. thought the cam gear timing might be out but that would cause it to run rich/lean and it not

My o2 sensor was fine as far as I know, it was returning really good fuel economy before the injectors went daggy.

So that was on Graham Wests Dyno.

What was yours on there for just a check up or? :)

Once when I was at Graham Wests he did mention that the dynologs read a little lower than the others.

The run was finished at 6500rpm, so it held that power perfectly to 6500rpm? Thats not to bad really..

As for the low power.. It doesn't make sense, even with the vg30 it was down on top end power.

One last.. what did Graham charge for a power run?

it was just a dyno day that some car club organised and i thought i'd go on there to see if i could see valve float and just to compare it to another dyno! Ye it stopped at 6500rpm cause thats what i set the rev limiter to! And as you can see it pulled hard to there and held the power really well and didn't drop off till he backed off, he said its an awesome graph and hasn't seen anything like it since he had his xr6t on there, even the gtr whilst making more power the graph was nowhere near as good. he said i could bring it back this week and i could put it back on they dyno and he'd strap it down properly this time as he thinks its still slipping, (free of charge) which i'm thinking i might do and put that oxygen sensor in that you gave me to see if its all good!

Edited by mr_rbman

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's a boring history lesson on number plates People want illegal spacing to make their plate more readable, if mine was J2X BK, anyone who knows about the car would see that its spelling JZX. Years ago third party plate manufacturers could alter the text to make it look like something else, nowadays the computer software is locks that ability (well, ours does at work) Up until 2001 the first letter of a number plate represented the year of the vehicle, for example A would be 1983. (pre 1983, the format was backwards, so the year letter was on the end). Followed by 3 random numbers and 3 random letters. Things started to get complicated at the end of the 90s where T and V were 1999, W and X were 2000 and Y was early 2001. From 2001 they introduced a new 'layout' where the first two characters are letters, this represented where that vehicle was first registered in the country. The letters corrosponded to a region in the country. Some regions had a large number of codes, where as some only had a couple (despite being large in physical land size) Next are 2 numbers to indicate 2000s. So it went from: Y (March 1999 > Aug 2000) 51 (Sept 2001 > Feb 2002) 02 (March 2002 > Aug 2002) 52 (Sept 2002 > Feb 2003) etc etc When the 2010s got here, the numbers changed again, going up by tens 10 (March 2010 > Aug 2010) 60 (Sept 2010 > Feb 2011) When the 2020s arrived it went to 20 (March 2020 > Aug 2020) 70 (Sept 2020 > Feb 2021) etc As for personalised plates, you're not allowed a registration that makes the vehicle look newer. Take my 110 for example, its a 2004 car so I can have any available plate upto 04. I can't have a 54 because it was manufactured in August 2004. Which allows me to have a J plate, because its older (if that makes sense)    
    • Mount some of these on your dash? https://www.greddy.com/products/16001720  
    • Given you're running a 2.8 and my 2.5 is not really like for like, I suspect there could be a bit more timing you could give it. What is the kW yield per degree you're putting through it? Here's my E85 map to give you an idea, where it was I could still get another 3~4kW per degree thrown at it.  
    • It turns out that Setrab make a fan specifically for the oil cooler which is great and I've installed it with minimal swearing. I removed my 2x 12in push fans from the front of my aircon condenser and wired them into this. My main thermo fans kick on when I use the aircon anyway and would effectively already be working as puller fans through the condensor which is infront of the rad. The push fans (understandably) didn't really do much in the config they were previously in so now they're out. Now we're on to the "Oil fan doesn't really do much either!". Yes I'll duct it next if it does nothing in heavy use which it shouldn't. But hey, the object exists and fits great and is cool. Let me have this. The car is still in the "do my fittings leak oil now? do my wheels actually rub?" phase. I did a spirited drive on them and didn't hear or feel anything. Then I got back home and noticed there were grind marks on the inside of the rims, though I couldn't see where they were touching I got out the grinder and attacked the suspects. Note: I do not know how to use a grinder. Then I realised I had dragged my new rims across my concrete driveway before I did this drive. I didn't think I had damage at that time when I briefly looked...... but remembered this occurred after I did all the angle grinding. The grinding on the wheels in some very specific spots. It's not around the whole rim for example, which lines up with dragging it across concrete more than hitting a suspension component for even 1 full rotation. So everything is currently painted and taped up and I need to test it some more to see if it really IS rubbing, but from inside the car it doesn't feel like it is. In other news I attempted to do a before and after comparison of the heads/cam upgrade thing. Dynos lie, everything is in different measurements. Here is the data from the sandown back straight. Car go faster than before. Vroom vroom.
    • Here's my base ignition. +3 correction to redline when shooting water/meth which is always on. Looking at my old ignition table, I should be able to add 1-2 degree's next time I'm on the dyno.  Let me know your thoughts. 
×
×
  • Create New...