Jump to content
SAU Community

Jackets... Get Your Supercool Sau Vic Jackets...


Recommended Posts

All

Jackets have been ordered - we expect to have them available mid-July (before Drift for Dummies).

I'll post the production mockup pix when I have them back from the manufacturer - but for now, you'll just have to trust me that these will look ace :P

They are a 2-part polar fleece vest and jacket that can be worn separately, or as one cosy set.

They are black with grey panels and reflective piping.

We are ordering 50 - in a range of sizes from S to XXL

We will have some sizing samples at the Midnight Cruise - and I'll try to arrange something for next week too.

size_JK_18_1.gif

size_JK_18_2.gif

In the mean time - I would like people to reseve sizes, and ideally pre-order/pre-pay for these (to help our cashflow). So....

Normal cost:

$120 for members

$160 for non-members

Pre-pay members = $115

Pre-pay non members = $150

Important note - the pre-pay price is only valid if you PAY. Pre orders are fine and great for us to order sizes correctly, but unless you pay before delivery - the costs are the normal ones. This is entirely due to cashflow reasons - and there will be no exceptions.

Payment via EFT only

You must use the following format for your deposit: "JACKET FORUM NAME" (Eg, JACKET Jamezilla)

Bank: Westpac

Name: Skylines Australia - Victoria

BSB: 033305

Account: 265609

Thanks

James

post-936-1153303159.jpg

post-936-1153303174.jpg

  • Replies 279
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

ORDERS

Jamezilla = M & L (PAID)

Snowman = M & S (PAID)

Age = XL

LeeWah = S (PAID)

rchoo = M

phunkey_monkey = XL (PAID)

GTR-Geoff = XXL (PAID)

MissJuz = S (PAID)

Ant95 = M (PAID)

Joel = L (PAID)

Ash = M & M (PAID)

Jetdat = M (PAID)

Crispy = L (PAID)

Saff = M (PAID)

Dezz = M & S (PAID)

Dark = L (PAID)

Al = XXL (PAID)

Daz = XL

Blackrex = XXL (PAID)

Skybee = L

Crack = XL

Mav = L (PAID)

West = S (PAID)

Yug = XL

Jack = XXL (PAID)

ScottA = XL (PAID)

Sarah = M (PAID)

Driver Dynamics = XL (PAID)

Will = M (PAID)

Scotty = L

Greg = L (PAID)

Shiv = S

Jackie = S (PAID)

Bec = L (PAID)

Adz = L (PAID)

Pete = M & S (PAID)

Danny =XXL (PAID)

Roy = M

Scotsman = L

AlexCim = M (PAID)

Gareth (gaffa) = XL (PAID)

Babia = M (PAID)

Tekin = XL (PAID)

Ryan = XL (PAID)

Paul = L (PAID)

Justin911 = M

Nige = M

gdogzgtr = M

thebuzz = M (PAID)

CNBLOW = XL (PAID)

JVP-R32 = XL (PAID)

R32_BigBalls = XL (PAID)

Adam (Tuspeed) = XL (PAID)

Aaron (Rampant) = XXL (PAID)

Ben (JSpec) = XXL (PAID)

Craig (JSpec) = XXL (PAID)

Total = 61

Geoff - I am waiting on the pre-production comps to come back but...

Handsome Dan here is modeling the jacket type:

jacket.jpgJK_18_large.jpg

And below are the artwork proofs - showing left sleeve, right sleeve, back, jacket front and vest front (vest back is the same as the jacket)

J

post-936-1150961848.jpg

Hi James....long time no see mate.....def. put me down for one of these. I'm thinking if you are going the L then I'll be either a L or M.

Just keep us updated on fits so I can narrow it closer to the order

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...