Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good time Dale and great shot....

Is that a baby seat in the back???

Cheers Jase; pretty stoked to get the time too!

Why yes; yes it is, dad spec is the new sex spec. The after sex spec, if you will. ;)

And given half a chance; my young bloke would've been along for the ride...

Josh, the 18 x 9.5 +12 fit all good? any guard work needed?

I run 18x9.5 +12 on my s1, with 10mm slip ons on the front, ive rolled my guards all round, although have quite a lot of camber, if your're prepared to go quite low, they fit well.

  • 1 month later...

Took a photo up at Mum and Dads today inbetween working on the Xk120. This is pretty much my safest ride height and where it will stay. 335mm front eyelid, 330mm rear. It clears up over any driveways, gutters and gives good enough travel over the shitty roads (I do alot of onsite callout's Tweed/Goldcoast).

Even though my exhaust is tucked up pretty nicely, it's lowest point is 110mm off the deck.

Car drives so well still for what is now 335,000klms on stock turbo no rebuilds. Been running 12psi+ for the last 200,000 klms :D Roil Additive at the start and motul 8100 excess every 10k. Have to credit Nissan for building such an outstanding engine, driveline - everything.

Pennies are being saved now for a couple more suspension parts - front tension rods and swaybars. The clutch feels tired so probably needs doing soon and then I can get onto the better stuff in life - hypergear turbo, injectors, fuel pump, z32 afm, cams and nistune.

post-58831-0-21051800-1352023310_thumb.jpg

Jez

Took a photo up at Mum and Dads today inbetween working on the Xk120. This is pretty much my safest ride height and where it will stay. 335mm front eyelid, 330mm rear. It clears up over any driveways, gutters and gives good enough travel over the shitty roads (I do alot of onsite callout's Tweed/Goldcoast).

Even though my exhaust is tucked up pretty nicely, it's lowest point is 110mm off the deck.

Car drives so well still for what is now 335,000klms on stock turbo no rebuilds. Been running 12psi+ for the last 200,000 klms :D Roil Additive at the start and motul 8100 excess every 10k. Have to credit Nissan for building such an outstanding engine, driveline - everything.

Pennies are being saved now for a couple more suspension parts - front tension rods and swaybars. The clutch feels tired so probably needs doing soon and then I can get onto the better stuff in life - hypergear turbo, injectors, fuel pump, z32 afm, cams and nistune.

post-58831-0-21051800-1352023310_thumb.jpg

Jez

looks good always loved these yellow stageas

looking good Jez!

Makes me keen to get new wheels and coilovers for mine!

Also, blacked out grille and highbeams looks pretty good too

Because it makes it look less like a Series 2 and more like a series 1.... HA.

looks good always loved these yellow stageas

looking good Jez!

Makes me keen to get new wheels and coilovers for mine!

Also, blacked out grille and highbeams looks pretty good too

Thanks guys !! Appreciate it.

Because it makes it look less like a Series 2 and more like a series 1.... HA.

It does change it up a bit. Got a bit bored with the pig nostrils ( thats what i call the high beams )

Just a couple of pics of mine from the SAUQLD Charity cruise.

Thanks to Andrew and Chris for the pics.

Car looks great SABBAi, how the hell did I not know about this charity cruise. I am such a dope some times.

might as well post a pic of mine...

post-10286-0-14380600-1352442363_thumb.jpg

got a late model front end & some 20" VSKF's coming in a container..

here is a photoshop mockup of what it should hopefully look like in a couple months

post-10286-0-36263000-1352442371_thumb.jpg

...

Edited by loz-tuned

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...