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I got my R33 GTS-T up on the dyno yesterday to see how she would go before I put the boost controller and FMIC on. I was a bit surprised at the result, I was expecting around 150rwkw, 160 tops. I never expected to see this. I had a look in the dyno thread, and there aren't too many stockers in there to compare to, and none have a graph that looks like this, hence the new thread.

The car is dead stock apart from a turbo back exhaust, and HKS pod filter. Everything else is dead stock standard. Standard boost, computer, turbo, fuel system, intercooler.... everything.

The graph doesn't have A:F Ratios on it, but they were between 12 & 13 the whole way through.

I notice that the power curve looks a bit wierd too, but I have noticed that alot of Skylines have sort of strange power curves.

Does this look right for a basically stock R33? Any other info would be appreciated.

post-27958-1153028014.jpg

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airflow makes power. an intercooler doesnt add any more power. its certainly possible. but i would have expected wonky powercurves due to rich and retard. its probably remapped or something you dont know about the car. theres always a reason. there are no freak ecu's

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I notice that the AT is 10, IT is 18, I don't think it was 10 degrees at 11.30 on Saturday, but I suppose it proves that the pods pick up hot air from the engine bay. I don't think that a gap of 8 degrees would mean much correction value though.

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The AFR didn't seem too lean, it was at about 13 at low revs - off boost, then steadily dropping to 12 higher in the rev range.

I am not sure how "happy" the dyno is, I have known a few people to get there cars dyno'd there as well as other places, and they reckon there is bugger all in it. I had my V8 ute dyno'd there a while back, and it made less power on that dyno than another DD dyno I previously ran on.

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The AFR didn't seem too lean, it was at about 13 at low revs - off boost, then steadily dropping to 12 higher in the rev range.

I am not sure how "happy" the dyno is, I have known a few people to get there cars dyno'd there as well as other places, and they reckon there is bugger all in it. I had my V8 ute dyno'd there a while back, and it made less power on that dyno than another DD dyno I previously ran on.

Could the ECU be re-programed?

What boost was it running on the dyno?

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just remember people a dyno is a tuning tool.. each dyno will read differently regardless of wat people say and yes there are ways to make a dyno read higher.. no bonnet.. bp.. airtemp in wrong spot

afr's are lean.. would like to see a sheet with afr's on there..

also.. if it was 10degrees at 1130 on a saturday morning.. i feel sorry for you.. i absolutely hate the cold weather

Edited by rb26s13
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just remember people a dyno is a tuning tool.. each dyno will read differently regardless of wat people say and yes there are ways to make a dyno read higher.. no bonnet.. bp.. airtemp in wrong spot

afr's are lean.. would like to see a sheet with afr's on there..

also.. if it was 10degrees at 1130 on a saturday morning.. i feel sorry for you.. i absolutely hate the cold weather

I watched the guy set it up, the bonnet was closed, the IT sensor was hooked on to the wire mesh on my pod, so I don't know why it would read high.

I know that the AFRs are a bit lean, I suppose they should be at about 12 or a bit below for the whole run, but I wouldn't think 12.5 in the mid range should cause too many problems (unless I get some bad fuel and a really hot day) - but I could be wrong.

No idea about the ECU, the car is exactly how I bought it, I have changed nothing. I know that dyno's are a tuning tool, but from experiences others have had with these guys, apparently their dyno is pretty close to other workshops around, which is why I was a bit surprised.

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it is possible to remap the stock ecu. i have bought one that was remapped in japan. rev limit is lifted to 7600, no speed limiter and r&r.

those afr's are on the lean side, which would be the reason for the good power.

but i would have expected wonky powercurves due to rich and retard.
you really need to get over r&r mode. he is running stock turbo and boost. there is no way he could hit r&r with that. also it wouldn't just be a wobbly line if he did hit it, it would be a huge drop in power (almost to 0hp). those who have hit it will know that it isn't just the engine feeling boggy, it is as if the ignition has been switched off, then straight back on.
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Come to think of it, I suspect that the ECU may have been remapped, the boost curve and AFR curve were quite smooth for a car that has a stock ECU, especially compared to other AFR lines I have seen. If it has been, I suppose that may account for a little more power too.

The AFR's are a bit lean, is there any danger that the car could ping under any circumstances? What can I do to avoid this?

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to avoid pinging use octane boost, but it is more the other affects of running lean that you want to watch out for. when it runs too lean for too long it damages the head.

an easy way to tell if it has been remapped is to see if there is a sticker on the ecu. 90% of the time they will have a sticker if they have been remapped. otherwise if you open it up you can tell for sure. the stock ecu has a smaller chip in it.

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Well my stock as a rock R33 pushed 144rw/kw then pushed 165rw/kw after a full turbo back 3" exhaust and considering i had bad misfiring coils and 95RON fuel on a 28 deg afternoon... I should be looking closer to the 170 - 175rw/kw now with the new coils, 98RON fuel and on a 10 deg morning...

But thats a very nice result Quinny... :D

Regards,

Sarkis

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