Jump to content
SAU Community

Should I Buy?

Rekin

By Rekin,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

eMsta Grand Master

eMsta

Posted
Posted

You will be looking at 15 - 16k all up - I got my s2 R33 for 17500 (incl rego etc). My opinion would be to keep looking - although aside from the steering and the gear shifter, the car looks very neat.

Id say, if you can get the car up, check for leakages and all around the engine block. The welsh plugs and all the piping for the coolant. Check the belts if you can. Have a look for any rust spots under the car - there was a thread with pics of rusts on r32s - scared the shit outta me.

Dont try RACV. Apparently they dont know how to really check out the engine and all that. Warranty might be worth looking into - check with the seller if he is including warranty with it.

good luck bud ;)

  • Replies 134
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

700HP-GTR33 Mentor

700HP-GTR33

Posted
Posted
and it sounds like you'd be leaving yourself with $0 for things going wrong...probably not a good idea.

This is your major problem....make sure you have it checked out properly.

But having said that ,not many people will go out of there way to look at the thing to make sure all

is well. I agree with the rest $14K is steep. I know some people trying to get $19K for stock gtr32's although the

better examples are around $22K.

Really a bit of advice to you. Take the car for a full once over by either nispro,racepace or any other respectfull

garage, no matter if it takes them 3 hour and $300 later.

The money you could save on repairs could be 20 times that amount.

Get everything in writing ....no......i'll get that fixed no problems.

The old saying is so true..........buyer beware.

Al Grand Master

Al

Posted
Posted
Get everything in writing ....no......i'll get that fixed no problems.

The old saying is so true..........buyer beware.

GREAT POINT!!!!

Everything he said he will fix, put it down on paper and you both sign, with a witness :whistling:

Even ask how he intends to cover the holes in the boot lid. If he is just going to bog it up don't accept it. The hole need to be filled properly and only a minimal amount of bog used. Put this down on paper too.

dezz Grand Master

dezz

Posted
Posted
Even ask how he intends to cover the holes in the boot lid. If he is just going to bog it up don't accept it. The hole need to be filled properly and only a minimal amount of bog used. Put this down on paper too.
Car comes with a GT wing but he can swap it for a standard r32 wing and bog/respray the existing holes for free. P
Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Ill be calling the seller tomorrow and tell him $13k with rego. He is asking for too much considering there is no warranty. He had a white one for sale for $15,500 but dropped it to $13,500 couple of weeks ago. He will drop this black one down soon enough.

xRHETTx Mentor

xRHETTx

Posted
Posted

Intercooler fan? Maybe its for the drink cooler in the glovebox? Believe it or not it was an option...

Anyway, it looks like a great car (from the other side of a computer screen). If you can get it for a bit cheaper, good on you.

But then again if you are happy with the car and it is the best condition one you have seen, it may be worth the extra $1k. As I'm sure others will agree with me, buying a good quality car in the first place is the key to being happy with your purchase.

I bought my R32 GTSt 3 years ago, was absolutely the best one out of the 20 or so i had seen (and 5 or so i had seriously considered and driven). I paid $16500 back then. And I dont regret it at all, I havent had a problem since...

Links Veteran

Links

Posted
Posted

I don't understand why you wouldn't get a SII R33 for around $2k more including RWC & Rego... you'll be getting a newer car.. ANYWAYS..

Compression test <- important I think..

FULL TANK OF FUEL <- $100 saving later on down the track

Take it for a decent drive <- make sure your happy..

Get an inspection <- combined with point 1..

Start it when it's cold <- make sure they aren't starting it and warming it up before you get there..

Remember you've got insurance to pay + better tyres once you've bought it.. Steering wheel looks crap as well, get that replaced.. what about the brakes? get the rotor's machined..

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for all your input, although Roy's may be a bit out there :)

In regards to the choice of the r33, it is easy to say just another 2grand. But just another 2grand ontop of that could get a r34 and so forth. Also the r33 is illegal for P-Platers and living 5 mins from knox i dont think it would be a good idea :yes: I just like the look of the r32 so its really preference.

When i first arrived I asked him straight away if the car had any probs with cold starts. He told me to go touch the motor and to feel that its cold. What i might do is call him and offer him $13,000 without the bov and any wing. Seeing as that should add up to be $500~ Many R32 gtst owners are selling their wings on this forum so it shouldnt be a problem.

If I take the car as is, that gt spoiler will leave about 12 holes in the boot :) including the other 2 holes from the stock spoiler.

He did the compliancing himself so he should have made money regardless if I brought the car to him for compliancing. He was selling a white r32 for $15,500 but then dropped it to $13,500 after a couple of weeks. A week waiting shouldnt hurt. :D

Althought he told me that he knew SAU so he could be reading this thread hehe.

Thanks

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I just got in contact with him and told him that I've only got $13k and suprisingly he accepted? Thats 13k AS IS with the boot holes and some scuffs around the car.

If i get the stock r32 wing ill have a lot of holes from the gt, if i get the gt ill only have 2 holes from the stock wing.

Is it still worth $13k cause i need to call him back and accept :wave: haha

Boot Lid:

dscn2511mediumce7.th.jpg

dscn2525mediumsk7.th.jpg

Rekin Grand Master

Rekin

Posted
  • Author
Posted
sounds like this guy is the 1 calling the shots, and not you...

$13k as is, or $14k with all the shit you listed fixed....

Hmmm...

It wont take $1000 to fix all the problems? Only problem is that scuff mark and boot holes which is just cosmetic. Thinking of going spoiler/bov-less and getting him to cover rego. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...