Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

17160?????? thats a lot man, my r33 cost me 17500....id think about this again man....

$17160 is what i assumed maclarenf1 total cost of his r33 is.

im comparing it to my estimated value of $13700 if i go ahead with this deal.

  • Replies 134
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

$17160 is what i assumed maclarenf1 total cost of his r33 is.

im comparing it to my estimated value of $13700 if i go ahead with this deal.

yap...thats about right actually.....cost me $980 for insurance.....and cos i brough from aussie owner ...came with aussie alarm.....and 17inch wheels......and cat back exaust...and nice stereo...(aussie one with MP3 and all)..

sky.jpg

yap...thats about right actually.....cost me $980 for insurance.....and cos i brough from aussie owner ...came with aussie alarm.....and 17inch wheels......and cat back exaust...and nice stereo...(aussie one with MP3 and all)..

sky.jpg

Thats a very nice r33 - i think i seen it before. Do you drive around the Monash area (mount wav, glen wav, clayton etc)?

Just got back from Racepace. My car was the only one missing a GTR badge haha. Saw a couple of SAU stickers on some. A black r32 gtr and a silver r33 gtr.

Racepace checked out whole car including compression; (140,135,145,140,135,145) and said it was good mechanically and whole car clean.

Couple of minor problems which need to be fixed for road worthy which Ben explained are common faults for this age of car. All will be fixed as RWC included with car.

Thanks goes out to Ben and his team at Racepace for inspecting the car and providing honest results.

Now to arrange daypass and vicroads rego uff~

- Patrick

Just got back from Racepace. My car was the only one missing a GTR badge haha. Saw a couple of SAU stickers on some. A black r32 gtr and a silver r33 gtr.

Racepace checked out whole car including compression; (140,135,145,140,135,145) and said it was good mechanically and whole car clean.

Couple of minor problems which need to be fixed for road worthy which Ben explained are common faults for this age of car. All will be fixed as RWC included with car.

Thanks goes out to Ben and his team at Racepace for inspecting the car and providing honest results.

Now to arrange daypass and vicroads rego uff~

- Patrick

nice mate.....hey.....if racepace says its all good....then who are we to say otherwise......went there ages ago to fix a turbo timer and there had GTR's left, right and center........hehehe.....but atlest try to get it with rego....

That looks like Dales car - from ages ago....

He and his wife had one each IIRC.

He was the first SAUer I met at the Christmas BBQ in 2004 at Elwood. Havent seen him at any events since though :D

$13700 still seems like a lot. You could easilly find an R33 for that prince (S1). They are getting cheaper and cheaper. Plus for that money you get a 2.5lt engine and a better gearbox. Anyway, good luck with the purchase.

Preference really, id prefer a clean r32 over a s1 r33. Im P-Plater so not going to risk it with the power/weight ratio regardless of how many people are doing it.

RWC should be ready in 2 days, I heard Vicroads are againts p-platers rocking up with imports to get rego. Any one had issues trying to get rego under their name? For full rego not rego transfer ;)

why is everyone comparing a good condition 32 to random cheap 33's? ;)

If someone is after a nice 32, why does it matter what price 33's go for? need to compare apples with apples :)

IMO i don't care how cheap 33's get, if i'm after a nice 32, i'm after a nice 32.....

anyway, it seems like racepace have given it the all clear, so as long as Patrick is happy then its sweet :)

why is everyone comparing a good condition 32 to random cheap 33's? ;)

If someone is after a nice 32, why does it matter what price 33's go for? need to compare apples with apples :)

IMO i don't care how cheap 33's get, if i'm after a nice 32, i'm after a nice 32.....

hooray! some r32 support!, the r33 owners were eating me alive :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...