Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 130
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Has anyone installed the DEh-8500MP or DEH-850MP!!!!

I installed it yesterday but the outside bracket was too large to fit...does this mean i have to pull the headunit out further from the chasis so the frame can fit???

Thanks in advance

I'm guessing you mean the surround, around the outside of the unit? If you have a look, I had to redrill the factory bracket back about 10mm to get the whole surround to fit under the console surround.

Nice guide bruv! Just installed mine, how hard is it to throw in the pulsar tray?  What year Pulsar is it from? Is it a good fit? How much $$$? Ive just got an empty space there! Looks ugly as!!

Cheers!

I believe it was from the current model, it's just a standard Nissan part which they would use across all Pulsars I guess.

Has anyone installed the DEh-8500MP or DEH-850MP!!!!

I installed it yesterday but the outside bracket was too large to fit...does this mean i have to pull the headunit out further from the chasis so the frame can fit???

Thanks in advance

I had the same problem. I used a mini angle grinder to shave a few mm off each side of the surround and now fits perfectly.

nice tut - but here's what happened to me last week...

i worked out how to pull her apart myself - got it out and cut off the stocko JAP steareo connectors..

I used a test lamp to find the constant 12V and switched 12V, I then used a AA battery to locate speakers wires.

I hooked it all up using auto elect clips with crimp tool...

when I had it all up and going - the unit wouldn't light up!!! I have no idea why - all fuses are fine and there is power there (test lamped) - BTW, the colours are different to mine

  • 1 month later...

i got a a pulsar that i use for sound comps which currently has a sony XAV7W with DVD player as my head unit, kicker revolution 6 inch spilts kicker 6x9 and two 15inch kicker comp Vrs running via two Kicker 4 channel amps. Are these subs better suited to a ported/vented box or a sealed enclosure, as i listen to R&B music i like the deep sub bass style of the music to pump from the sub. WHICH SHOULD I USE?? SEND ME A MSG TO TELL ME

CHEERS

I'll post this on the forum rather than a message - the whole point of a public forum is to share knowledge (or lack thereof :thumbsup:)

With that sort of cone area, I would definitely put them in a sealed box. With two 15s you don't really need ported boxes to make big low-down bass.

If you're going for SPL though, a properly set up, ported box with give you the numbers. Keep in mind that with a ported box, because you have to tune the ports for a narrow frequency range, sound in that frequency range will be much louder than the rest of the range. If you play a sine wave from, say, 10Hz through to 150Hz, and you have your box tuned to 25Hz, the sub will be noticeably louder at 25Hz than at 50. Yes, you can 'tune' a sealed box to give better response at a given frequency range, but overall they are a much smoother, more consistent setup.

In a nutshell

Sound quality: Sealed

Volume: Ported

  • 4 weeks later...

Nice work mate, This is probably the most detailed installation guide i have seen......very neat

Ive actually got a kenwood double din in my 33 but it doesnt play CD R's

so im getting rid of it and just installing a standard cd palyer, so ill definately refer back to this guide.

Cheers!!!

  • 1 month later...

By the way the red/purple wire is luminance/dimmer. You can find the same wire on the cigarette lighter. Also im allmost positive that is the same deck (the one removed in the guide) that you will find in a 98 nissan patrol.

  • 2 weeks later...

hey,

great guide mate will use it 4 sure...

does ne1 know how 2 get the bak parcel tray out of these 33's so i can put better speakers in..just confused me and gave me a head ache...

Yep - you have to pull the back seat out (do a search, I think there is a how-to on that somewhere), and pull the grilles off the speakers and remove the child restraints. Between the speakers there are a couple of clips, my preferred method of getting these off is to slide my hand under the parcel tray carefully (palm up) and feel around until you find the clips. Once you've found them, get your fingers as close to the clip as possible and push up until it pops out. Don't push on the clip itself because it'll probably push through the weak fibreboard parcel tray. Repeat for the other clips (mine has a total of three if I remember correctly). Then just pull the parcel tray out.

  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...