Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Could'nt agree more :)

I have just bought some Semi Slicks, will concentrate on suspension next.....brakes are costing me nothing, work is paying (salarys sh*t so have to have perks!)

Ended up getting the Brembo's, they are slightly cheaper than the AP and the disk size was bigger 355mm vs 343mm although the AP Caliper is a 6 piston jobbie, and the Brembo only a 4, there is also a 3 week wait to import either of them.

Sorry I don’t understand, are you saying that they would buy brakes but not suspension?

:ermm: cheers :(

  • Replies 84
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Some detail that a lot of people forget....oh and I recommend you look into RS73s group but for RDA discs.

Car & Driver did a test a few years ago ...Test Car was a WRX (US Spec which only uses two piston sliding caliper, not as good as Nissan 4 spot or later Model WRX 4 pots)

So tested kits were, std car, std car with upgraded pads and fluid, Brembo F50 Kit, Brembo Lotus Kit (Similar to as fitted to GTRs, 44/38mm pistons), Stoptech it and Prodrive Kit (Alcon)

Stopping Distances 70mph - 0 , 3 Stop

Brembo F50;_____________ 185 / 183 (Average / Best)

Brembo Lotus; ______________ 200 / 196

Prodrive; __________________ 198 / 194

StopTech;__________________ 187 / 186

Stock; ____________________ 205 / 196

Stck with pads and fluid; ____187 / 184

The above figures are all in feet, one stop difference between pad and fluid upgrade to crappy sliding caliper brake setup and massive Brembos is 1 ft...lol 30cms:( And over 3 stops the average is 2 ft...lol 60cms:)

So you can see the one stop max of the upgraded pads and fluid is damn good when you consider the $$$ to % difference.

Stopping Distances 100mph - 0 , 25 Stop

Brembo F50; _____________ 299 / 288 (Average / Best)

Brembo Lotus; ______________305 / 294

Prodrive; __________________ 308 / 295

StopTech;__________________ 297 / 290

Stock;_____________________ 340/317

Stck with pads and fluid;_____316/299

Not the world of difference you would be led to believe by the "you need 6pot caliper 343mm rotor crowd."

Specs of the kits:

Rotor Weight (pounds) Size in inches (diam / thk)

Brembo F50;.................15.8......................... .13.1 / 1.3

Brembo Lotus;..............12.9.......................... 12.9 / 1.1

Prodrive;......................16.5...........................13.0 / 1.1

StopTech;...................13.9..........................12.9 / 1.1

Stock;.................. ......14.2..........................11.6 / 0.9

Caliper Weight , Piston Size, (mm)

Brembo F50;..........8.6 pounds...........40 / 44, Leading / Trailing

Brembo Lotus;.......6.8.......................36 / 40

Prodrive;...............9.1..................... 34.9 / 41.3

StopTech;.............9.3.....................36 / 40

Stock;.................10.8.................. .43 / 43

...and COST!!!

Brembo F50;.......................US$2,995

Brembo Lotus;.....................US$2,595

Prodrive;.............................US$1,999

StopTech;...........................US$1,695

Stock with pads & fluid;....... US$130

Fantastic article, wasn’t it? Proven, real world testing that shows after pads and fluid, tyres and suspension upgrades are the best ways to increase braking performance.

:ermm: cheers :(

Yep, takes all the wank factor out of it. 25 big stops can't be sneezed at. Seen the other thread on R32 V-specs I posted this in as well mate? maybe a comment on V-spec diffs if you have any experience but Paul down here has had some very strange goings on with his R33 with active diff, especially interesting was when the diff place opened it up (another thread entirely.

thats good. f50 brakes aka 355mm and big reds are a good package.

ive got f40 brakes on the front of mine (343mm disc) and there way to small. they can overheat really badly on the track. but thats my fault for using generic brake fluid lol

the white brembo writing on the caliper is now a nice shade of brown. just to give an idea of how hot they get. pads are fine. just fliud boiling is an issue.

My RDA rotors seem to be doing ok. Had 3 good outings on them with 3 big stops from 220KMH, 3 stops from 140 and some piddly 5 from 100 or lower during a 2 minute lap and 10 laps per session and 6 sessions a day. Small amount of fade but still kept pulling the old girl up.

Should mention the car is a light as possible. Not sure what the weight of a stripped out R32 GTR would be.

Also i have some 18" RS+m enkei wheels which are very light not sure if that helps with the braking performance

  • 2 weeks later...

My Brakes arrived today :P Should fit them up this weekend all going well as trackday at Barbegello on the 28th September, will give honest opinion then on there performance :D

Bremb05.jpg

Bremb04.jpg

Bremb01.jpg

Bremb02.jpg

Bremb03.jpg

They are physically Massive, and will look great behind my wheels...although I kinda like looking at them on the kitchen table for now!.....not sure what the Mrs will think when she gets home however :D

Personally i rate the AP and Alcons as beign better calipers then the Brembos, but i am only going on ppl that have replaced old Brembos with new APs so?????

Whats with those hats? Im sure Brembo know what they are doing, but would that hat design cause turbulence around the inner circumference of the rotor when what you really want is all the air to pass up and through the vanes?

At the end of the day they are a great kit and im sure im splitting hairs, im sure you will find they work great, if they didnt Brembo would have shelved that kit by now :P

Yeah to be honest I actually prefered the AP racing Calipers and discs, and had this discussion with the guys in the shop as to which way to go as they were very similarly priced, Brembos were chosen purely as they were factory Fitment on GTRs...and as my car is never going to be a stripped out racer I decided to stay with the factory look :P

Not sure with the Hats and there design but can see what your saying.

Actually that won't cause undue turbulence but will facillitate air movement out and away from the disc over both the inner and outer surface.

Damn nice kit though.

Yes, but air has mass and therefore momentum so if it is able to continue to maintain velocity it will be more efficient at cooling and will utilise all available paths to escape rather than stagnating in a dead end with only the vanes to run out.

make sure you get them on the right way, from those pics they appear to be curved vane rotors and the way you have them dummied up has the caliper on the wrong side of the rotor, or the rotor on the wrong side (depending on which way you want to look at it lol). you are probably aware of it, but it would be a hell of a mistake if you weren't!

lovely looking brakes but way too much money imo. :woot:

Interesting article. We got a alcon kit front and rear only 4potters, big 4 pots front and little 4 pots rear. We run full slicks and before our braking was only very average, now not even the little clubmans, super sport 400kg motorbike engine powered things can outbrake us. But being a 1000kgs heavier we just cant accelerate through the corner like they can >_<

I believe the only difference between the 6potters is bigger pad, better wear and less fade again, but they cost more. But big brakes with a good suspension setup surely will yield better results then std brakes with a good suspension setup...would it not? Weve found it like that so far.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...