Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

if your going to spent that kind of money you might want to look at getting the mines create engine.

it may be just me but im not a fan of stroker kits and big singles. i like my car to be about response. i would look at a set of 25/30's or gtrs turbos. there are so many diffrent options to suit diffrent needs but for a track car i would want response.

Edited by mr 32
if your going to spent that kind of money you might want to look at getting the mines create engine.

it may be just me but im not a fan of stroker kits and big singles. i like my car to be about response. i would look at a set of 25/30's or gtrs turbos. there are so many diffrent options to suit diffrent needs but for a track car i would want response.

You have obviously never been in a GTR with a stroked motor and big single.

Good friend of mine owns a 2.7L with a T51-SPL. You keep it in the meat of the revs and its as responsive as my car was with 2530's. The meat of the revs being 4500+rpm, which isnt hard to stay above when you have a 10,500rpm rev limit... and thats with a T51R. A T04Z would be much more responsive.

A mines crate engine wont get you a car that goes as quick around a track like theres does. There are some trick bits on the car (carbon driveshaft, changed diff ratios) that make it that quick. And the stroker motor and T04Z would cost less than the $25,000 odd mines want for their engine.

Edited by Amaru
You have obviously never been in a GTR with a stroked motor and big single.

Good friend of mine owns a 2.7L with a T51-SPL. You keep it in the meat of the revs and its as responsive as my car was with 2530's. The meat of the revs being 4500+rpm, which isnt hard to stay above when you have a 10,500rpm rev limit... and thats with a T51R. A T04Z would be much more responsive.

A mines crate engine wont get you a car that goes as quick around a track like theres does. There are some trick bits on the car (carbon driveshaft, changed diff ratios) that make it that quick. And the stroker motor and T04Z would cost less than the $25,000 odd mines want for their engine.

you should check before you make statements like that. yes i have been and like i said for me its not what i wanted out of a car.

25 is for stage 3 and they wont sell it to you unless they put it in and tune it. stage 2 can be bought for a fair bit less.

how bout a RB31 (RB30 bottom/26 top) with decent sized twins.

he would have to get a block from australia sent over as they dont have rb30's from memory, and it may not be able to registered due to the age of the engine in a newer car not sure of regulations in the us.

Guest Mashrock

since your american i'd have a chat to these blokes

http://www.xs-engineering.com/

they seem to be pretty switched on about gtr's

but i'm sure your aware of them

if your going for a larger than standard displacment why not go a little bit bigger then 25/30's

perhaps even hks v-cam with a large single turbo setup. they have been said to still hold fairly responsive and new larger sized turbo technology has come along way since the days of lag

Your standard gearbox will hold up the power but if you have this large ammount of money get yourself a better gearset. os or hks or holinger for the win!

good luck with it!

Edited by Mashrock

why dont you just get a Z tuned wngine and whack it in? Save the trouble and everything. It seems that you have the dough. I would go down that track if i got the money to do it. Or HKS tuned ones. Full engine

Ok - if you really want a fast track / daily driver R34 GTR then the 1st thing to do is stop worrying about getting to 600HP and start worrying about what going to make it fast around a track.

A standard 2.6L with forged internals and 2530's, cams, injectors, ecu etc will get you around the 500HP@wheels mark.

However the suspension geometry on the R34 is all whack. The standard control arms etc don't allow enough castor to make a decent track car so that will need to be all redesigned. Obviously some good coil-overs are essential

Moddifications to the Attessa and a good mech diff will help drive out of corners. You can also change the final drive and if going extreme add a carbon fibre propshaft as per the infamous Mines R34. Do all that and chuck on some huge brakes and you'll have a pretty serious piece of kit.

However - if all you really want is 600HP then put on a single.

80k AUS...?

i would be like this guy ---> :)

i would send the car over to MINES in JP and say "Gimme the works... and i want fries with that..."

80k AUS is not enough :blink:

hmmm 80K AUS budget on a 34 GTR eh ?

Main ingredients will look like this (note I said MAIN ingredients so I have left out obvious ones like EBC and ECU etc)

Full tomei rebuild including the 2.8L stroker and sump baffle etc etc

Twin HKS 2835Rs

ARC cooler

Nismo or Greddy Plenum

Id say you would probably need a triple plate by this stage or a tough twin plate.

Hopefully the stock getrag 6 speed will hold up for a little while but when she blows its time for an HKS or Holinger sequential box.

Then just get the supportings mods such as injectors, twin Z32s if needed, oil cooler etc etc the list goes on and on.....

Hi,

Why bother spending that sort of money....I think GTA in Melbourne have one for 90KAus GTR34

700 Plus HP at the wheels. Check out their site.

I have seen the engine bay....lets say you need sun-glasses...

Apparently it has something like 40K Bolt ons and God knows how much manual work went into it.

Anyway half the fun is having an input into the build.

But if you have the money and want some-one who has built them from stock before,

talk to them about power levels needed and go from there.

Good luck.

Guest Mashrock
Hi,

Why bother spending that sort of money....I think GTA in Melbourne have one for 90KAus GTR34

700 Plus HP at the wheels. Check out their site.

I have seen the engine bay....lets say you need sun-glasses...

Apparently it has something like 40K Bolt ons and God knows how much manual work went into it.

Anyway half the fun is having an input into the build.

But if you have the money and want some-one who has built them from stock before,

talk to them about power levels needed and go from there.

Good luck.

hes in america. they have enough trouble getting gtr's into the country.

hes in america. they have enough trouble getting gtr's into the country.

Thanks Andrew forgot he had already purchased one over there,

I suppose i was to busy reading how every-one can spend some-one elses money :(

If your R34 is stock

,

UPGRADE THE FOLLOWING

GT-RS Turbo's,Injectors,Fuel Pump.Fuel Regulator,Power-fc,Boost controller.

N1, Oil pump,Sump extention,Water Pump,Catch can,Oil Cooler,Trans.Oil Cooler,

Diff Oil Cooler,Coils,Spark plugs.Suspension Components and Spring(OHLINS)

ENGINE -(Adjustable cams,Tomie(PONCAMS )Heavy duty Spring and Bolts)

Braided Brake,Clutch lines and Cusco Brake stop kit......With at least front Brakes upgraded

to Porche type.Air intake and exhaust with dumps

I think I have covered the basics without getting 2.7(TOMIE)or2.8(HKS) Engine upgrades,

which you can buy aswell and rebuilt

And you still need to upgrade your Rims and tyres....because you have spent so much money on it by now

You need every-one to notice you. :/:P

GOOD LUCK

track down the guys in the UK that bought this thru us... ask them for a list of parts. Replicate. Done.

summary: http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/3899

pics: http://www.j-specimports.ca/pics/3899

track down the guys in the UK that bought this thru us... ask them for a list of parts. Replicate. Done.

summary: http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/3899

pics: http://www.j-specimports.ca/pics/3899

Guys in UK? Didn't know there were many in the UK

they've got lots of guys and girls in the UK. They're easier to find than guys in Australia... at least they don't have kangaroos over there to confuse the issue.

Hehe :P

Your best bet would be to take it to a tuning house like Apexi or Signal which now have pretty strong ties in the US with local workshops, and have them come up with a tried n tested method of getting what you want for the purpose you want.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please use a modern ECU. PowerFC with the Nintendo Gameboy controller is horrible. It's not 2005 anymore.
    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
×
×
  • Create New...