Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey, im new around here but was wondering if someone could decode this for me:

Chassis - HCR32-011224

Model - RCR32GASLM IC

COL? - KG1 G

I can't manage to get the FASt software! but from what i read above that this should be an automatic but its a manual. wondering if anything else has changed! (just looking at buying the car)

Thanks in advance

Anthony

South:

The vehicle deatils are as follows:

Build Date: 07/1989

Colour Code: KG1

Interior: G

Spec: M-Spec

Trans: Auto

Thanks very much for the info :D

Im taking that the KG1 is the silver colour? they must have done a switch on the transmision which makes me worry about the motor and the k's!

Anthony

  • 2 weeks later...
I do not have a C:/WINDOWS/directory, I followed the steps to what i could understand it. I put the NSFASTKY.INI file in C:/ .

Is this the same thing?

PS: I',m using XP

not c:windowsdirectory

its supposed to read put it in c:windows

(windows directory) he added a by mistake after windows (typo)

not c:windowsdirectory

 

its supposed to read put it in c:windows  

 

(windows directory) he added a  by mistake after windows (typo)

Got that sorted last week :D

i think it has EVERY nissan ever made on them, you just need the correct cd, each cd does different cars .. i'll try find out which cd has the datsun 1600 510 series for you ..

It covers from 1979 and onwards.

  • 2 weeks later...
yes thats exactly what it means......which might be a problem for compliance or 15yo import if its not in the country yet

Then something is going on. coz i am importing this under the 15 year rule becoz it's suppose to be a 1990 may GTR.

it has already got import approval could that date be wrong?

nOOSE

I was hoping that someone can help me out also (have embarrassing dial up in the country which is very slow)

ECR33-051375

GGKBRTR33VDA-U---

I know what the bulk of the model numbers are but not sure on the last few digits are -U---

my rego papers say it is a 1995 my Green plate say 11/1994 and I just need to know if the car is series 1 or series 1.5

greatly appricaited

I was hoping that someone can help me out also (have embarrassing dial up in the country which is very slow)

ECR33-051375

GGKBRTR33VDA-U---

I know what the bulk of the model numbers are but not sure on the last few digits are  -U---  

my rego papers say it is a 1995 my Green plate say 11/1994 and I just need to know if the car is series 1 or series 1.5  

greatly appricaited

It was made in 93/08 - so it's actually a 1993 car!

Edit: Cancel that - I think I screwed up entering the code!

Ian

ohh and you got me all excited then thinking someone mght have an answer for me ;)

Sorry about that.

When I type yhe number in that you gave (ECR33-051375) it comes back with "model series can not be found for this vin no"

The one that I actuall commented on was ECR33-005137 - I'd left the five of the end, and had an extra zero at the front.

Are sure your number is correct and that you don't have a digit wrong????

Ian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
×
×
  • Create New...