Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey, im new around here but was wondering if someone could decode this for me:

Chassis - HCR32-011224

Model - RCR32GASLM IC

COL? - KG1 G

I can't manage to get the FASt software! but from what i read above that this should be an automatic but its a manual. wondering if anything else has changed! (just looking at buying the car)

Thanks in advance

Anthony

South:

The vehicle deatils are as follows:

Build Date: 07/1989

Colour Code: KG1

Interior: G

Spec: M-Spec

Trans: Auto

Thanks very much for the info :D

Im taking that the KG1 is the silver colour? they must have done a switch on the transmision which makes me worry about the motor and the k's!

Anthony

  • 2 weeks later...
I do not have a C:/WINDOWS/directory, I followed the steps to what i could understand it. I put the NSFASTKY.INI file in C:/ .

Is this the same thing?

PS: I',m using XP

not c:windowsdirectory

its supposed to read put it in c:windows

(windows directory) he added a by mistake after windows (typo)

not c:windowsdirectory

 

its supposed to read put it in c:windows  

 

(windows directory) he added a  by mistake after windows (typo)

Got that sorted last week :D

i think it has EVERY nissan ever made on them, you just need the correct cd, each cd does different cars .. i'll try find out which cd has the datsun 1600 510 series for you ..

It covers from 1979 and onwards.

  • 2 weeks later...
yes thats exactly what it means......which might be a problem for compliance or 15yo import if its not in the country yet

Then something is going on. coz i am importing this under the 15 year rule becoz it's suppose to be a 1990 may GTR.

it has already got import approval could that date be wrong?

nOOSE

I was hoping that someone can help me out also (have embarrassing dial up in the country which is very slow)

ECR33-051375

GGKBRTR33VDA-U---

I know what the bulk of the model numbers are but not sure on the last few digits are -U---

my rego papers say it is a 1995 my Green plate say 11/1994 and I just need to know if the car is series 1 or series 1.5

greatly appricaited

I was hoping that someone can help me out also (have embarrassing dial up in the country which is very slow)

ECR33-051375

GGKBRTR33VDA-U---

I know what the bulk of the model numbers are but not sure on the last few digits are  -U---  

my rego papers say it is a 1995 my Green plate say 11/1994 and I just need to know if the car is series 1 or series 1.5  

greatly appricaited

It was made in 93/08 - so it's actually a 1993 car!

Edit: Cancel that - I think I screwed up entering the code!

Ian

ohh and you got me all excited then thinking someone mght have an answer for me ;)

Sorry about that.

When I type yhe number in that you gave (ECR33-051375) it comes back with "model series can not be found for this vin no"

The one that I actuall commented on was ECR33-005137 - I'd left the five of the end, and had an extra zero at the front.

Are sure your number is correct and that you don't have a digit wrong????

Ian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...