Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

no warranty on import spare parts as per Nissans national headquarters fax to me after I asked about the pump, as the car wasnt service or the part wasnt installed buy qualified nissan mechs there is no warranty on nearly all spare parts regardless of whether its a mechanical part or not!!

  • Replies 105
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

no warranty on import spare parts as per Nissans national headquarters fax to me after I asked about the pump, as the car wasnt service or the part wasnt installed buy qualified nissan mechs there is no warranty on nearly all spare parts regardless of whether its a mechanical part or not!!

That's actually not correct. Nissan can't bypass it's 'fit for purpose' obligations by such statements, imported parts or not. Statutory warranty obligations still apply. However, you would have to prove that the part was faulty from manufacture.....and that's the difficult part.

Can anyone here do metalurgy tests to test if the gear drive material is the same as standard pumps as I believe they are a harder steel but a more brittle one thus prone to cracking....

I could, but I can't become 'involved' in any official way because of who I work for (my time is currently charged at around $1500/day and this is about a weeks work to a proper job, report, etc). I don't mind having an informal look and give you a guide as to what's going on + put you on to some people in Sydney that will be able to pursue it further if you want....at cost, of course).

Unless a proper, scientific investigation is done, everything else is just pure speculation AFAIC. It's highly unlikely the materials are at fault, if properly designed and selected in the first place. Faulty materials probably account for <5% of all mechanical failures.

Wheres your R&D injected?

we are all still waiting for it :whistling:

many many examples versus just one... i know which one i'd trust

no need to maybe u should read everyone else's post .... how about u prove me wrong..ohh hand on a sec u cant as usual... u just go on what other people have said or what u have been told....

.....im listening

and about the cranks many engine builders actually shave the end of the crank where the oil pump fits to turn it over beta/ beta hold on the oil pump hope i explained that.

and your a tosser if u think the n1 oil pump is better than the jun/tomei one's.

but i know u would go for the n1 because your a tight ass.

cheers.

Edited by infected flow
I could, but I can't become 'involved' in any official way because of who I work for (my time is currently charged at around $1500/day and this is about a weeks work to a proper job, report, etc). I don't mind having an informal look and give you a guide as to what's going on + put you on to some people in Sydney that will be able to pursue it further if you want....at cost, of course).

Unless a proper, scientific investigation is done, everything else is just pure speculation AFAIC. It's highly unlikely the materials are at fault, if properly designed and selected in the first place. Faulty materials probably account for <5% of all mechanical failures.

hey steve actually the gears failed on both occasions not the bearings or anything else but when u look at both pumps they are very similiar =standard = n1 oil pump im not actually sure if its the design or the metal that the pumps are made of.

cheers hope this helps

all the N1 pump failures I know of were gear failures too. like I said before, a lot of it comes down to the use of the car, but regardless of that they definately seem more prone to fail that tomei/jun/trust pumps. It's enough of a concern for me to not use one on a decent $$ build which is pretty much any RB26 build these days!

Why not use an external oil pump? Not a dry sump setup, just a pump thats sucks the oil up then feeds it into the engine. Maybe make use of the standard pressure relief valve and plumb the external pump into the standard positions. I would be surpised if there wasn't something available that could be used.

Or is there more to it than that?

External Oil Pump

Moroso's External Oil Pump System has shown significant horsepower increases when used in conjunction with our External Wet Sump Oil Pans. Mounting an oil pump outside the engine (similar to a dry sump setup), allows the use of a full-length windage tray for less windage and more power! An External Oil Pump also eliminates torsional stress on the camshaft, as well as spark scatter and resultant horsepower loss caused by an internal pump.

Interesting

a couple of people do use external pumps on RB26 with a wet sump. but it's not cheap. not as expensive as dry sump (not far off) but more expensive than a JUN/Trust/Tomei pump so they are kind of middle ground. most people either save their dough and use the JUN/Tomei/Trust option (along with baffles, enlarged sump, external oil return, head restrictor) or go the whole hog to Dry sump. Like I said though there are a couple RB26s in Aus with external oil pump, wet sump set-ups.

Time some of you guys that have lunched engines and pumps to post in my thread in my sig, but I'm going to be linking directly to this thread out of there anyway and adding to the review.

My first thought on seeing the first post was hard cut rev limiter launches and then possibly the pump drive configuration, but on a $10K engine that would be hard to believe. Can the oil drive config be confirmed as short or long?

As with anything the failure can be diagnosed fairly easily if you know what to look for, so time for pictures as well so some of us can comment on design flaw/manufature flaw/destruction due to usage.

There has also been a thread where a Kiwi did straight up testing of the N1 vs stock and the N1 has larger flow capacity due to larger gear spaces so could laed to fatigue failure (from thinner material in some areas), harder material in the pump gears as well as the higher pressure relief valve.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...