Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They are 100% The R32 RB25DE injectors that came with bl4ck32 and my own head were both red top high imp injectors. I dropped a multimeter on them myself.. 100% high imp. Same part numbers everything.

The R32 RB25de's don't run a resistor pack of any kind, its not in the diagrams in the engine manual, only the rb26 does.

I'm sure mr_rbman could also confirm as he too ran a R32 RB25de head on his rb30.

Interestingly the injectors that came out of my rb20det were clear top with a red dot. Not that it has anything to do with r32 rb25de but I found it interesting. They must have run out of red plastic. ;)

;) he is correctomundo :ninja:

  • Replies 160
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

So you've got your self a set of R33 GTST 370cc Injectors?

How do you plan to fit them as they are sidefeed?

If your running a pfc you will obviously have to trim the injectors and also adjust the lag values for it to run correctly.

From memory the R32 RB20DET/RB25DE injectors run a 0.77ms lag time where as the R33 injectors are around the 0.54ms lag time.

gl with it! Dropped my 32 in today to get rb25'd (gearbox + engine) seems like a natural occurance these days :blink:

You going to be at DECA?

Also, where are all you ppl getting the R32 RB25DE heads/engines from? Ppl are asking RB25DET money for them :(

LOL...im going to be the last 20 running around :)

I am thinking of doing the same conversion but will hold out for some of the results.

I wonder how much boost you can safely run with 10:1 CR and how much timing you will have to pull out.

230rwkw and some torque is what I am after. I have everything already on the 20 and the turbo on the way. I am just missing some displacement :(

You going to be at DECA?

Also, where are all you ppl getting the R32 RB25DE heads/engines from? Ppl are asking RB25DET money for them :(

LOL...im going to be the last 20 running around :no:

I was lucky and picked mine up through a mate who has a mate that runs a import place, lol. I dont think they know about the engine being able to mate up with the RB30 either and im gonna keep my mouth shut. Picked up my motor with all accesories flywheel and clutch for $495, not bad hey.

You going to be at DECA?

Also, where are all you ppl getting the R32 RB25DE heads/engines from? Ppl are asking RB25DET money for them :D

LOL...im going to be the last 20 running around :D

Hey Roy,

Car is in at driftline, ive been eta'd 1-1.5weeks so hopefully i should be able to make it to deca. Car will be forced to run without a proper tune though so i really dont know how much i want to push it

So you've got your self a set of R33 GTST 370cc Injectors?

How do you plan to fit them as they are sidefeed?

If your running a pfc you will obviously have to trim the injectors and also adjust the lag values for it to run correctly.

From memory the R32 RB20DET/RB25DE injectors run a 0.77ms lag time where as the R33 injectors are around the 0.54ms lag time.

Yes we did discover that.. lol i forgot that was written in this thread!

I am pretty sure Nathan worked out which ones run at the correct impediance to run this DE+T engine.

anyone want to see more of her in the gearbox tunnel LOL!!1

:sick:

Don't you dare bitch!! :yucky:

Edited by RB_turbo_bitch
Hi there, ive actually just put a RB25DE, +T into my R32 and removed all the hicas and fitted a lock bar. You said you put a spacer on the rack, just wondering what it was for?

here's some pics of the spacer..

0005325wi7.jpg

0005326di3.jpg

" wonder how much boost you can safely run with 10:1 CR and how much timing you will have to pull out."

I was running 7psi in the R34 no problems, and it was making some good power. A final tune would have seen it with 9psi...but it was stolen before then. If I'd put bigger cams in I think 12psi could have been a real possibility with blinding performance.

" wonder how much boost you can safely run with 10:1 CR and how much timing you will have to pull out."

I was running 7psi in the R34 no problems, and it was making some good power. A final tune would have seen it with 9psi...but it was stolen before then. If I'd put bigger cams in I think 12psi could have been a real possibility with blinding performance.

Nice.. well the head's coming off it today so we'll see what happens!

Edited by RB_turbo_bitch
Righty,that's why the confusion.Looks like you meant it was in the steering column,not the rack.Have you driven a car with one fitted? Any drawbacks to them?

No no i am putting spacers in the steering rack as well as the steering column (pics above)... they are called MAGIC WASHERS buddy!

A non-hicas S13 sreering rack and rear cradle are also being fitted.

and no i haven't driven a car with one fitted before...

Edited by RB_turbo_bitch
A non-hicas S13 sreering rack and rear cradle are also being fitted.

and no i haven't driven a car with one fitted before...

whats the benifits of putting a s13 rack in?

cheers

Jeremy

Grab the s13 power steering filler bottle thing too as it only has one hose outlet on it, i just clamped a bolt onto the unused outlet for now until i get one.

Ive mucked around a fair bit with the wolf to get my idle, cold/hot start sorted out and the car is behaving perfect now, so its just 8 days away from dyno tuning.

I did drive it to get the aircon regassed, gave it a few half throttle hits and it had 7-8psi by about 2600rpm, on the freeway where i had space to play it was seeing 15psi just over 3000rpm but under load it just started to ping so i took it easy from then on.

As my wastegate has a 1 bar spring thats the boost ill be using, as long as i can control myself not to wind it up with the ebc.

whats the benifits of putting a s13 rack in?

cheers

Jeremy

It's quicker then any r32 rack (less turns from lock to lock! ...and then i have nice light steering and a fully locked rear end!!

Grab the s13 power steering filler bottle thing too as it only has one hose outlet on it, i just clamped a bolt onto the unused outlet for now until i get one.

Yep I am using one of them!!

Nice.. let me know how the tune went and the power output!

boss is doing a rb25de (32) + T into works drift ceffy

1.8mm h/g to4 style turbo and external gate

should be good 25 det g/boc

and some 700cc inj out of his drag 32 gtr

going microcrack

anyone got advice on the cams?

I think he's after 250-300rwkw

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
    • Such a shame places like Amaroo Park have been redeveloped, smaller tracks always make for good racing. Cheers for sharing @PranK there's some good Lakeside video's too. Its so hard with older the cars as parts are so rare and everything was made for a particular chassis at that point in time. Even the V8 Supercar Blueprint era cars are all different between each chassis within a team as they learnt things and made improvements. The COTF cars between each Chassis builder is different too especially motor/oil systems/intakes. The Group A stuff is worth so much too especially chassis with good history. The only way to do it would be composite panels and similar engine drivelines to the original cars. Ford sierra running Focus RS driveline, Commodore running a short stroke LS/LT or a Falcon with coyote and a H Pattern dog box. Could use a standard ecu across all models with a Torque Map and DBW for parity which is not even used in Supercars currently. Hell a TCM is almost a full chassis car these days and the suspension is not even close to standard style in the front running cars.  
×
×
  • Create New...